Blackbox just got back to me stating that the Faultmate modules are the same as Rovacom ( doesn't say so in their website )
Now then, the cost of the extra modules comes to £370.00, do you think a Nanocom will be a better bet for a few quid more??

Cos there's a fair bit if faff with Rovacom, special OBD lead to printer plug to black plastic box to printer lead to alloy box, to printer lead to laptop ( with printer socket ) When i'm in the car with it, there's wires etc. everywhere.

Whereas the Nanocom plugs directly into the OBD socket? Yes?
I don't know Rovacom but Nanocom sounds like a better option to me, only the small screen size is a negative, it does plug in via a cable or you would not be able to see the screen. You could always sell the Rovacom to offset the cost of a Nanocom.
 
I have a rovacom light the cables are not to bad and like the fact it on a large screen you can see more info at once, not used a nanocom but i can see the benefit of not needing a laptop to run it, i have to make sure the laptop is charged or run an extension lead out.
 
I have a rovacom light the cables are not to bad and like the fact it on a large screen you can see more info at once, not used a nanocom but i can see the benefit of not needing a laptop to run it, i have to make sure the laptop is charged or run an extension lead out.
I have a Faultmate which will run stand alone. Never used t like that, the display is too small, I use a 10" tablet which will run off a USB socket if the battery is low.
 
The small Nanocom touch screen can be irritating but I think that the convenience of the device always being in the glove compartment makes up for that.

Storey Wilson's EAS Unlock software runs on Windows (can be via a VM on a Mac) & the free V3 version is much nicer than a Nanocom for calibrating the ride heights but is not so quick & easy to use to clear faults. The paid for V4 version of EAS Unlock does most everything that the Nanocom can do at less than one third the price https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3

EAS Unlock runs happily on a Windows tablet & a suitable used one can be picked up for under £80. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174367176529
 
The small Nanocom touch screen can be irritating but I think that the convenience of the device always being in the glove compartment makes up for that.

Storey Wilson's EAS Unlock software runs on Windows (can be via a VM on a Mac) & the free V3 version is much nicer than a Nanocom for calibrating the ride heights but is not so quick & easy to use to clear faults. The paid for V4 version of EAS Unlock does most everything that the Nanocom can do at less than one third the price https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3

EAS Unlock runs happily on a Windows tablet & a suitable used one can be picked up for under £80. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174367176529
The V4 only works on petrols and not on diesel engines
 
OK, Nanocom delivered ( at great cost ) :(
Registered it, hooked it up, imported all the various module codes, all seems to work ok BUT, yet again, there a some modules it cant/wont communicate with, BECM works fine, as does the EDC, doesn't connect to ABS, SRS, or EAS, & these are the ones that show faults on the message centre.
Plugged & unplugged many times, these very same faults go back on many years of old MOTs so might there be something more serious?
Not sure what to look for next.
Could the actual ECUs be at fault? Is there a test?
 
OK, Nanocom delivered ( at great cost ) :(
Registered it, hooked it up, imported all the various module codes, all seems to work ok BUT, yet again, there a some modules it cant/wont communicate with, BECM works fine, as does the EDC, doesn't connect to ABS, SRS, or EAS, & these are the ones that show faults on the message centre.
Plugged & unplugged many times, these very same faults go back on many years of old MOTs so might there be something more serious?
Not sure what to look for next.
Could the actual ECUs be at fault? Is there a test?
Careful how you plug and unplug the Nanocom, if it's not at the home screen you can do damage. It's likely the problem is not the ECU's themselves but connections.
 
Been suggested to me that you connect the cable to nano then cable to car.
Also been suggested that you don't start the car with it plugged in
 
Been suggested to me that you connect the cable to nano then cable to car.
Also been suggested that you don't start the car with it plugged in

I never disconnect mine from the Nanocom.

EDC unlock code won't allow you to see GEMS or THOR but everything else should work if the OBD plug is good. GEMS unlock code won't see WABCO D or EDC or THOR. THOR unlock won't see WABCO C or GEMS or EDC. Unless, of course, you buy the other unlock codes.
 
Had another shuffling around the plugs etc when I noticed that one of the SRS set of wires is NOT in the yellow sleeving, but it does enter into the main loom.
I was under the impression that ALL SRS is in the yellow stuff, could this be a past owner mod? Should I investigate further??
 

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Sounds like the becm has shut done completely. Hence no comms.
You need to go one step at a time with this vehicle else you will pull your hair out.
I can sort the becm out & the 2.5 diesel engine ecu if required & this should get you started & all the other systems will power up.
A new battery won't last long if using diagnostics & engine not running. You should have a charger connected while the Nanocom is plugged in.
 
Had another shuffling around the plugs etc when I noticed that one of the SRS set of wires is NOT in the yellow sleeving, but it does enter into the main loom.
I was under the impression that ALL SRS is in the yellow stuff, could this be a past owner mod? Should I investigate further??
They are your seat belt reel pretensioner plugs. Disconnected battery before unplugging and then cut the plugs and solder the wires back together. If there has been leaking from the heater rad or water ingress form the pollen filters almost a guarantee they're corroded somewhat👍
 
Yeah, I know WHAT they are, I was asking if you thought something's amiss as they are NOT in yellow sleeving.
No leaks, dry everywhere. All connections seem shiney!
 
Yeah, I know WHAT they are, I was asking if you thought something's amiss as they are NOT in yellow sleeving.
No leaks, dry everywhere. All connections seem shiney!
Could be any reason why some wires are not in their appropriate sleeving🤷‍♂️
 
Yeah, I know WHAT they are, I was asking if you thought something's amiss as they are NOT in yellow sleeving.
No leaks, dry everywhere. All connections seem shiney!
Look for corrosion between the pins and for wires that are just hanging on to the pin s by the plastic sheath.
 

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