What wiring mods do you want to do?I want to do some electrical mods on my 2000 plate Range Rover. Can anyone help me with a wiring diagram?
TIA
+1Mess with the wiring on the P38 and you could end up in a world of pain unless you know what you are doing with electronics.
I have 2 kits to fit, one is a remote key fob system which is more secure than the original system which doesn't work anyway (I have an electrical/electronics background) this outputs various signals, lock/unlock and disable for disabling the starting of the vehicle. From what i have seen in the wiring diagram, this unit will have to be mounted inside the drivers door and connected to the lock/unlock in the door lock, the disable line fed into the car.What wiring mods do you want to do?
You may end up in a mess doing these things. Personally i would get the standard locking working correctly before even considering your mods..Thanks for the help guys, i eventually found the workshop manual PDF which didnt include much wiring info, i then found the wiring info in another PDF
I have 2 kits to fit, one is a remote key fob system which is more secure than the original system which doesn't work anyway (I have an electrical/electronics background) this outputs various signals, lock/unlock and disable for disabling the starting of the vehicle. From what i have seen in the wiring diagram, this unit will have to be mounted inside the drivers door and connected to the lock/unlock in the door lock, the disable line fed into the car.
The second kit is a one button start/stop. This needs the disable signal and a connection to the oil light and ignition light, also a signal from park and neutral (Automatic) and a signal from handbrake on. This module outputs ignition on and start.
So the diagram was needed to find the various wires and colours to tap into.
After a morning working on it and doing a few mods in the workshop and now have the new fob system working. My only issue was the door circuits are all 5v logic levels and the new key unit 12v but a bit of thinking later i had a work around and also have the immobilise signal to feed the start/stop system which again i suspect will be 5 voltsYou may end up in a mess doing these things. Personally i would get the standard locking working correctly before even considering your mods..
If you turn of EKA and the immobiliser in the BECM, it will make life easier.After a morning working on it and doing a few mods in the workshop and now have the new fob system working. My only issue was the door circuits are all 5v logic levels and the new key unit 12v but a bit of thinking later i had a work around and also have the immobilise signal to feed the start/stop system which again i suspect will be 5 volts
BECM is accessed via the OBD port using diagnostics such as Nanocom.Can you enlighten me here Datatek? Doesn t the BECM have its own diagnostics port?