Wambe

Wambe

New Member
Good day all,



I want to install a 2 1/4 Diesel engine in my S3. The engine was rebuilt by someone else but doesn't want to start. I suspect that the injection timing is off and that the camshaft was not correctly installed.

To check this I will need to set the cranksaft on the EP mark. Unfortunately the timing pointer (ERC2250) is no longer with the engine.

My local supplier of LR parts here in Namibia cannot source the pointer from his suppliers in South Africa or the UK.

I don't want to pull off the cylinder head to find the TDC and use that as reference and wonder if one of you can send me the dimensions of the pointer. I need to know how far from the edge of the bell housing the point of the pointer sits. With that information I could make my own mark and check the timing. Even a photo of the pointer next to a ruler will help.

Can you assist?

Thanks in advance.
 
Wambe said:
Good day all,



I want to install a 2 1/4 Diesel engine in my S3. The engine was rebuilt by someone else but doesn't want to start. I suspect that the injection timing is off and that the camshaft was not correctly installed.

To check this I will need to set the cranksaft on the EP mark. Unfortunately the timing pointer (ERC2250) is no longer with the engine.

My local supplier of LR parts here in Namibia cannot source the pointer from his suppliers in South Africa or the UK.

I don't want to pull off the cylinder head to find the TDC and use that as reference and wonder if one of you can send me the dimensions of the pointer. I need to know how far from the edge of the bell housing the point of the pointer sits. With that information I could make my own mark and check the timing. Even a photo of the pointer next to a ruler will help.

Can you assist?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
A lot of these engines don't have pointers any more.
You can probably just undo the clamp and try a few different positions on the pump to get it started.
But be aware there are many reasons these engines won't start.
I would be looking at blocked fuel filters, air intakes, tappets, and battery condition first.
 
I didn’t use my pointer in the end as the timing mark on the flywheel was missing all together. Instead I printed a paper timing disc on my computer and attached it to the crank pulley. Nothing complicated. Just a circle with accurate angles. I also used a bent welding rod bolted to the timing chain cover to take the measurements.
 
Pointer missing off mine too, perhaps as rough guide use the No of teeth to gauge its position


upload_2023-2-28_12-34-59.png
 
Turboman said:
A lot of these engines don't have pointers any more.
You can probably just undo the clamp and try a few different positions on the pump to get it started.
But be aware there are many reasons these engines won't start.
I would be looking at blocked fuel filters, air intakes, tappets, and battery condition first.
Click to expand...


Thanks, Turboman.
The engine currently sits in a cradle on the workshop floor, with its own fuel supply, filter, fresh battery etc. Compression is fine, nozzles are spraying fine, glow plugs are working and I think I have eliminated any other reason for not starting.
What I noticed is that the 1 cyl exhaust valve is not near the peak, when the EP mark appears in the 'window'.
I might have to pull the front cover and check the cam timing....
Will keep you posted.
 
miktdish said:
https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/e...iming-on-flywheel-housing-series-2-and-3.html
https://pablanchard.co.uk/Timing-Pointer-2.25-Litre-Diesel-ERC2250
https://www.lrparts.net/erc2250-pointer-ignition-timing.html
Click to expand...

Thanks, Miktdish,
ordering the pointer from the UK is Plan D or E. :) As I am sitting in Namibia the courier cost will be very high and I am trying to find a more affordable option. Polling the front cover off the engine and double check the timing will probably be the next step for me.
Cheers.
 
Bobsticle said:
I didn’t use my pointer in the end as the timing mark on the flywheel was missing all together. Instead I printed a paper timing disc on my computer and attached it to the crank pulley. Nothing complicated. Just a circle with accurate angles. I also used a bent welding rod bolted to the timing chain cover to take the measurements.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Bobsticle.
Why did I not think of this? :)
I have some of these timing discs (nicely glued on CDs of my daughters favourite boy bands) from working on my bike engine.
Will give it a go before pulling the engine cover and keep ou posted.
Cheers.
 
steve2286w said:
Pointer missing off mine too, perhaps as rough guide use the No of teeth to gauge its position


View attachment 283680
Click to expand...

Thanks, Steve.
That's another good idea.
Looks like the timing doesn't have to be spot on to get the engine to fire up, fine tuning to follow after. Will give it a go and come back with news when I get back to the farm and work on the engine in ~ 2 weeks.
Cheers.
 
Wambe said:
Thanks, Turboman.
The engine currently sits in a cradle on the workshop floor, with its own fuel supply, filter, fresh battery etc. Compression is fine, nozzles are spraying fine, glow plugs are working and I think I have eliminated any other reason for not starting.
What I noticed is that the 1 cyl exhaust valve is not near the peak, when the EP mark appears in the 'window'.
I might have to pull the front cover and check the cam timing....
Will keep you posted.
Click to expand...
If the camshaft isn't in the right place visa vis the crank, it won't run properly.

The pics in the genuine manual, some of which are posted above ^^^^^^^^^^^, should give you enough to go on to make a pointer.
Or use one of the improvised methods described, unless you get lucky, and someone has one and posts a pic.
 
on my bellhousing next to the inspection cover is a bolt that unscrews to allow a locking tool to be inserted to mate with a notch in flywheel I assume this would be to lock crank at TDC
 
doing my timing on engine rebuild, said notch does not actually line up with TDC, checked TDC with DTI, and made a pointer up out of some spare
CE821012-5008-4FF9-B09B-5DDF59E4A323.jpeg
5770D9CF-F9E4-441A-B255-189D298D7CFE.jpeg
3D1E7321-C281-409E-8F3B-207B330C72B5.jpeg
4FDEEDC6-DCC2-459C-95B7-5F7CDA5F8861.jpeg
ally and marked to match tdc mark on flywheel
 
If you have an old glow plug, you could butcher it, and remove the internal ceramic parts, and glue it to a length of clear washer tubing, and form a U tube. This could then be used instead of the dial gauge on the piston top as a way of approximating the TDC position without taking the cylinder head off.
 
Tall Ratbag said:
If you have an old glow plug, you could butcher it, and remove the internal ceramic parts, and glue it to a length of clear washer tubing, and form a U tube. This could then be used instead of the dial gauge on the piston top as a way of approximating the TDC position without taking the cylinder head off.
Click to expand...
hmmm.....I wonder how you would do that....the glow plug does end in the hot plug (part# 558168) and not directly in the cylinder, so I assume this is not really possible
 
Last edited:
kalle99 said:
hmmm.....I wonder how you would do that....the glow plug does end in the hot plug (part# 558168) and not directly in the cylinder, so I assume this is not really possible
Click to expand...
Give it a bit more thought; remember that the pre-chamber communicates with the main cylinder; if it didn't the fuel and flame could never reach the cylinder.
 
The glow plug must enter above the hot spot , in or near the shroud coming in 90 degrees to injector hole , so if it could turn 90 deg drop down a bit to find the hot spot hole from inside then change direction 45 degrees it could work especially if a mini camera was on the end but not impossible, just not feasible , using valve positions better option to find TDC even if valve timing a bit out
 

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Steve - the idea is to use the hollowed out glow plug as a connector to allow air to pass from the cylinder, via the pre-combustion chamber, to a clear plastic U tube. Coloured liquid in the U tube would then move in direct reaction to piston motion, and so indicate TDC. It would look a bit like a manometer.
 
>>poor man’s DTI

In a way, yes! It would be quite sensitive because the area of the piston is much much larger than the area of the pipe section, so even a small movement of the piston would push the liquid a long way along the tube.
 
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