kapilamuni said:
Fill up new filter with diesel and fit it. Fit a piece of clear tubing to filter input line.(there is a joint in my car in that line)Fix the other end to a 5 ltr diesel can and hang it above the level of the filter. Loosen the filter to inj pump line at the inj pump and allow diesel to flow then close it. If your battery is good it will fire up within few turns. After running it for a while you can reconnect the filter input.

Wammers, I agree with you that something wrong with the pump. But I doubt it,s that spacer for,
1. I was extremely careful when installing the pump head o-ring. (my first such attempt, watched youtube videos on a VW Passat several times prior to this).
2. Car ran perfectly for about 2 n half years. Problem started after Dec 2016 with timing chain replacement.
3. I bought a dud inj pump, dirt cheap from bay e. Removed the head complete & the said spacer was held at the camplate(?) centre, even after turning it upside down it remained intact. I had to push it out . May be it's varnished. the spacer is about 2 mm thick with diameter about 8mm, (didn't measure properly).
4. I have read on other forums, dropping the said spacer will shorten the inj pump life to few minutes (?). as the plunger will hit the camplate like a hammer, it said.

My apologies to OP for hijacking his thread.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't it be easier to replace the in tank fuel pump? You have never listened to good advice freely given and are now spouting crap imho,who wants to driving about with a 5ltr container of diesel strapped to the roof? May be acceptable in Sri Lanka but not here
 
Tomcat55..
I suggest that you read the last line.;)
I changed the ITP after 3 months or so, not an easy job having to drop the fuel tank. Also, never had a can of diesel strapped to the roof.:p:p
My point is that you don't need an ITP to start a diesel P38 or any other diesel car (except CRD) .
For your information, I had a diesel TOYOTA 1500cc turbo , and it did NOT have an ITP from the factory. Imagine changing a fuel filter with your kind of thinking.:D:D

Wammers- I followed those Youtube videos to the dot. Worth the weight of the inj pump in gold, for any amateur . The VP37 pump shown is very similar except ours having 6 injectors to feed.
 
Last edited:
kapilamuni said:
Tomcat55..
I suggest that you read the last line.;)
I changed the ITP after 3 months or so, not an easy job having to drop the fuel tank. Also, never had a can of diesel strapped to the roof.:p:p
My point is that you don't need an ITP to start a diesel P38 or any other diesel car (except CRD) .
For your information, I had a diesel TOYOTA 1500cc turbo , and it did NOT have an ITP from the factory. Imagine changing a fuel filter with your kind of thinking.:D:D

Wammers- I followed those Youtube videos to the dot. Worth the weight of the inj pump in gold, for any amateur . The VP37 pump shown is very similar except ours having 6 injectors to feed.
Click to expand...

Oh for christ almighty sake will you start to listen. If the chains are sound and correctly located on timing marks twelve raised links apart at TDC number one firing. If the timing device has not been touched. If the cross drive is sound. The only possible logical thing that can cause you not to be able to get 0.90 or more lift on cam within the confines of movement of the adjustment slot with engine locked at TDC number one firing is that the spacer has dropped out. The spacer places the rollers in running tolerance contact with the null point (valley) of the rotating cam. If the spacer has dropped out the null point (valley) of the cam will be 2 mm or so out of running contact with the rollers. The pump drive shaft and cam will then have to rotate further before the rollers contact the cam and can push the piston to deliver fuel. Now either listen or not it's up to you.
 
wammers said:
Oh for christ almighty sake will you start to listen. If the chains are sound and correctly located on timing marks twelve raised links apart at TDC number one firing. If the timing device has not been touched. If the cross drive is sound. The only possible logical thing that can cause you not to be able to get 0.90 or more lift on cam within the confines of movement of the adjustment slot with engine locked at TDC number one firing is that the spacer has dropped out. The spacer places the rollers in running tolerance contact with the null point (valley) of the rotating cam. If the spacer has dropped out the null point (valley) of the cam will be 2 mm or so out of running contact with the rollers. The pump drive shaft and cam will then have to rotate further before the rollers contact the cam and can push the piston to deliver fuel. Now either listen or not it's up to you.
Click to expand...
I've lost the will to live,not going to reply he knows best.
 
Hello sorry have not been in touch still got the problem bled the system no air in it now in tank pump is indeed working as it's pumping fuel through to the filter my next guess is the cut off solanoid but I'm pretty disguested at the prices for all other rangeys is like 10-30 quid but for. P38 it's 130?? That's not on
 
Remember, even though the P38 is now an old car, it was a premium model in its day commanding high prices for purchase and repair.

Whilst there are many aftermarket parts now available, it is still a champagne car that can be bought for lemonade money!!
 
The EDC VE stop solenoid can be had for a lot less than that look around on the net.
 
I don't mind paying the price if I know it will fix it so I'm thinking by pass the solanoid if it works then purchase new one
 
brianp38dse said:
@wammers does this one look right to you, from what I can see it should fit

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-cut...201253?hash=item27e61a3325:g:w-4AAOSwIk9ahEbi
Click to expand...

Should fit i think but. He needs to check the one he has before laying out on things he may not need. They have bee known to but don't fail very often. Throwing bits at randome sometimes works but costs a bloody fortune. Needs some proper diag on it. If it keeps stopping as described there have to be fault codes logged.
 
No fault codes all been plugged in when it cut out last I tested the solanoid and its not clicking up and down but there's 12v going to it
 
One simple trick is to run a wire from the battery live to the solenoid and touch the top of it to see if it clicks.
This rules out the wiring and or the solenoid.;)
 
penska said:
No fault codes all been plugged in when it cut out last I tested the solanoid and its not clicking up and down but there's 12v going to it
Click to expand...

Plugged into what? If it's not clicking with 12 volts applied you do need a new one.
 
penska said:
No fault codes all been plugged in when it cut out last I tested the solanoid and its not clicking up and down but there's 12v going to it
Click to expand...

wammers said:
Plugged into what? If it's not clicking with 12 volts applied you do need a new one.
Click to expand...
What Wammers is alluding to is the Bosch Diesel Electronics will only talk to dedicated Bosch or Land Rover test gear.
 
Plugged into Hawkeye diagnostic and had a machanic come out with a snap on diagnostic and nothing coming up ...the solenoid works untill it cuts out then once it cuts out the solanoid isn't engaging but the voltage is still going to it
 
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