Nialox

Active Member
Hello,

Originally posted this in the wrong forum section!

Car -
1996 P38 DSE Manual 157K

Problem.
Car seems to start rough cold, and then runs with a weird rhythm. Also a small rattle from the front.

Had the fan belt off. Could feel some play in water pump pulley but non in the crank damper beneath. The car also ran horribly without the belt (even though it was only 30s)

Video of car cold start


car running without belt


The play in the pump


One thing I noticed this morning (when start video was filmed). Was that even though it was around -1c outside. The glow plug light only stayed on around 4-5seconds. For the purpose of the video. I allowed the plugs to heat twice before starting.

some people have mentioned the lines between injectors (which I will check). As well as Fuel Injection Pump and Chain servicing?


Anyway. Any help would be lovely.

it’s worth mentioning. After the car has run for 10min. And is turned on and off again. It starts much more easily and runs smoother?

also as you can hear in the video the majority of noise can be heard when the camera is over the middle of the intake manifold.

cheers
Nial
 
As Alan says, leak off pipes and glow plugs, are getting in via the leak off pipes can produce a rattling sound on start up.

Thanks a lot. I’ll give the leak off pipes a check. In terms of checking plugs how’s that done? Or is it easiest to just go with a new set
 
Thanks a lot. I’ll give the leak off pipes a check. In terms of checking plugs how’s that done? Or is it easiest to just go with a new set
As you have to remove the heater plugs to test them you may as well put new ones in. Make sure you use a good make NGK ,Beru search posts by @Grrrrrr for his recommendations.
 
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Thanks a lot. I’ll give the leak off pipes a check. In terms of checking plugs how’s that done? Or is it easiest to just go with a new set
Change the water pump.


Okay will do. Thanks so much. I’ve heard you are quite the expert. Did you manage to see the cold start and video of it running without a belt. Would love your input
 
As you have to remove the heater plugs to test them you may as well put new ones in. Make sure you use a good make NGK ,Beru search posts by @Grrrrrr for his recommendations.
The Glow plugs can be tested in situe, pull the wires off one at a time, with a DVM on Ohms, put one probe on the Glow plug connector and the other on the block, it should read almost a short circuit depending on what range the DVM is on, if the reading is open circuit the plug is duff.
 
If you end up changing the leak of pipes cable tie them on they will last longer as the stuff you get now only seams to last not long at all if you dont
some put heat shrink on the ends.
 
The Glow plugs can be tested in situe, pull the wires off one at a time, with a DVM on Ohms, put one probe on the Glow plug connector and the other on the block, it should read almost a short circuit depending on what range the DVM is on, if the reading is open circuit the plug is duff.
Correct Keith, I prefer the more technical method of taking the plugs out and using a pair of jump leads , if you put a bit of spit on the element and momentarily power the plug. If the spit sizzles its ok, if it doesn't it's fecked.;):D
 
Bin the viscous and tap our data for his electric fan mod..
SMirC-thumbsup.svg.png
And... While your changing the water pump, check the belts for cracks and bearing noises on all pulleys.
No to "britpart" parts....
 
As you have to remove the heater plugs to test them you may as well put new ones in. Make sure you use a good make NGK ,Beru search posts by @Grrrrrr for his recommendations.

Beru for me, every time. There were 2 listed as possible when I last looked. I put up the part numbers somewhere. I got them from Eurocarparts (no affiliation) for a decent price.
 
Correct Keith, I prefer the more technical method of taking the plugs out and using a pair of jump leads , if you put a bit of spit on the element and momentarily power the plug. If the spit sizzles its ok, if it doesn't it's fecked.;):D
I'm lazy and plugs can break as they are being removed.:cool:
 
I snapped the plug on cyl1 getting them out don’t think whoever put them in coppasliped threads.
Epoxied it back in one piece but didn’t work for long like that.
 

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