aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Ah, the nightmare that is bulkhead alignment.
Did you set then bulkhead up before you bolted the wings on? (But with the old door tops)
Because now the wings are bolted on you've little chance of moving it.
I did one for someone on here the other week, who had took a truck cab off and fitted a hard top.
Doors where touching top corners as yours are.
I ended up having to unbolt all the wings etc and move a couple of inch forward to give me some waggle room.
We took all the spacers out from the foot well and chassis bracket was as far forward as possible. Ratchet strapped it forward, tightened it all up. Let straps go and it sprung back :doh:
Now I knew it would, just did so more than I thought it would.
Door gaps while they didn't touch weren't great.
The other option was to take a washer out from the outrigger and have a bigger gap all along. But he didn't want that.
So the next plan was to try and lift the tub slightly at the front. (He'd had the tub off before)
So unbolted it all from where it bolts the the chassis at the front, stuck a block of wood and a jack under the front of it and jacked it up. I.e opening the gap at the top and closing the one at the bottom.
Now this didn't allow massive amounts of movement but it made them look reasonable again, and pretty straight all the way down.
Sounds like you may need more than that but maybe worth a go for the sake of 6 bolts.
Oh and it's cracking on now mate, looking good
Did you set then bulkhead up before you bolted the wings on? (But with the old door tops)
Because now the wings are bolted on you've little chance of moving it.
I did one for someone on here the other week, who had took a truck cab off and fitted a hard top.
Doors where touching top corners as yours are.
I ended up having to unbolt all the wings etc and move a couple of inch forward to give me some waggle room.
We took all the spacers out from the foot well and chassis bracket was as far forward as possible. Ratchet strapped it forward, tightened it all up. Let straps go and it sprung back :doh:
Now I knew it would, just did so more than I thought it would.
Door gaps while they didn't touch weren't great.
The other option was to take a washer out from the outrigger and have a bigger gap all along. But he didn't want that.
So the next plan was to try and lift the tub slightly at the front. (He'd had the tub off before)
So unbolted it all from where it bolts the the chassis at the front, stuck a block of wood and a jack under the front of it and jacked it up. I.e opening the gap at the top and closing the one at the bottom.
Now this didn't allow massive amounts of movement but it made them look reasonable again, and pretty straight all the way down.
Sounds like you may need more than that but maybe worth a go for the sake of 6 bolts.
Oh and it's cracking on now mate, looking good
top drive
Well-Known Member
cheers arron
passengers wing not bolted up - drivers wing is though- will loosen that off and try again. Will also try jacking tub up on passengers side ....and see if i can drop the drivers side somehow.
need to find a fat mate to sit in the tub - that actually makes sense as it would pull the top in on the drivers side and lifting the passengers side would open the top out a bit.
passengers wing not bolted up - drivers wing is though- will loosen that off and try again. Will also try jacking tub up on passengers side ....and see if i can drop the drivers side somehow.
need to find a fat mate to sit in the tub - that actually makes sense as it would pull the top in on the drivers side and lifting the passengers side would open the top out a bit.
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top drive
Well-Known Member
so you mean pulling it back to the bumper isnt actually helping me as the roof is constraining it so the screen is hinging back on the bulkhead making it not the same angle as the door frame.....
Thats kind of the conclusion im coming too - i think a couple of spacers in tub to chassis brackets onthe drivers side and push it down as far as possible/elongate the holes if needs be - then jack up the passengers side. till the door gap looks good , then the windscreen frame should match the door top.
Thats kind of the conclusion im coming too - i think a couple of spacers in tub to chassis brackets onthe drivers side and push it down as far as possible/elongate the holes if needs be - then jack up the passengers side. till the door gap looks good , then the windscreen frame should match the door top.
greyhair
Well-Known Member
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
nobber
Well-Known Member
Yup , ball ache.
I used two jacks , one either side of the tub under the B pillar, I disconnected everything, I used a length of string to make sure the doors were on the same level as the tub and bulkhead just where the doors roll in towards the window , then when this was all lined up I connected the windscreen and roof, then the wings.
If the bottom half of the doors are lined up first the tops will fall into place.
I used two jacks , one either side of the tub under the B pillar, I disconnected everything, I used a length of string to make sure the doors were on the same level as the tub and bulkhead just where the doors roll in towards the window , then when this was all lined up I connected the windscreen and roof, then the wings.
If the bottom half of the doors are lined up first the tops will fall into place.
nobber
Well-Known Member
Nobbers 90 - Page 8
Page 5 and 8 should give you a few ideas, also check the bars/brackets that run behind the sills, put me right off track they did.
Page 5 and 8 should give you a few ideas, also check the bars/brackets that run behind the sills, put me right off track they did.
top drive
Well-Known Member
nobber , cheers forthat , i expected that was how i would have to proceed.
Ended up cutting 10mm out of a gate and welding it back up for my dad .... a simple job yes how ever everything was going wrong. My fuse blew , my extension went discontinuous and then i was so low on my welding wire it was coming off at too sharp an angle to feed smooth so it took all fecking night.
will be the weekend before i get a chance now i reckon. Got to give the berlingo a 10k service for the wife tonight and thats not a euphanism.
Ended up cutting 10mm out of a gate and welding it back up for my dad .... a simple job yes how ever everything was going wrong. My fuse blew , my extension went discontinuous and then i was so low on my welding wire it was coming off at too sharp an angle to feed smooth so it took all fecking night.
will be the weekend before i get a chance now i reckon. Got to give the berlingo a 10k service for the wife tonight and thats not a euphanism.
top drive
Well-Known Member
what wheels you all running on your landies with bucket seats in?
got a nice but rough set of cobras off a mate a couple years ago with the intention of sticking them in here for comfort and support. - and they are comfy as im slim. - and i dont intend to run the harness - just sticking stock 3 point inertia reels in as ultimately its going to be used on the road so i dont want to be pulled into the seat at junctions etc - equally i dont want to be sliding about off road on the stock seats and end up with teh gear stick up my arse (like clarkson on top gear in the lorry challenge) - and i dont want to cut into the shell to get the angles on the harness.
but obviously stock wheel is a monster.
having seen the youtube reviews of the fake wheels (youtube fake nardi steering wheel) im not interested in fakes.
are there any lower branded half decent wheels or do i just go for a mountney.
would it be recomended to go for a deep dished wheel or a flat wheel ?
would it be recomended to get a snap off boss for security or use a fully covered loose fitting wheel lock - as it does seem easy to drive at the moment with a set of 8inch stilsons !
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top drive
Well-Known Member
Wind screens in.... Downside is i need a new one. Doh, it cracked in 2 places and it has delaminated round the edges.
Heated screen in the future, i think so- once its all built maybe....
My mate put one in his 109 build as his one treat....its unreal. Although id be spewing if i hit it with a tree and split it again.
Heated screen in the future, i think so- once its all built maybe....
My mate put one in his 109 build as his one treat....its unreal. Although id be spewing if i hit it with a tree and split it again.
top drive
Well-Known Member
Auldgreen90
Active Member
Really looking the biz now. Love following your thread
top drive
Well-Known Member
Cheers auld green
Today i had to visit my mate at tamstein dynamics( mini nutters) for a 7/16th unf nut for the clutch pipe to clamp it to the bracket.
Got the clutch plumbed in ( but not bled ran out of dot and for security) and run all the cupronickle brake lines front to back. Remembering to salvage the 1/2unf fitting for the front brakes to the mastercylinder. Changed the drum pads out for the new ones.
Started it up and got it warmed right up after maybe 30 minutes... Temp gauge doesnt move which is a ####, need to fault find that , the gauge and sender are compatable they are the ones from the 19j... but used my laser thermometor and she was warm right enough. Tested by the heating being turned on and being warm.
The smoking issue i was having went away completely.. Switched it off let it cool for a few hours and started it back up. The standard black puff then no smoke.
Heres hoping that was all the **** burnt off , if not then maybe just the valve stem seals.
Also went round and stuck jubalee clips on all the hoses that need it after i started the engine forgetting i hadnt jubalee clipped the heater matrix hoses cue water away.
Today i had to visit my mate at tamstein dynamics( mini nutters) for a 7/16th unf nut for the clutch pipe to clamp it to the bracket.
Got the clutch plumbed in ( but not bled ran out of dot and for security) and run all the cupronickle brake lines front to back. Remembering to salvage the 1/2unf fitting for the front brakes to the mastercylinder. Changed the drum pads out for the new ones.
Started it up and got it warmed right up after maybe 30 minutes... Temp gauge doesnt move which is a ####, need to fault find that , the gauge and sender are compatable they are the ones from the 19j... but used my laser thermometor and she was warm right enough. Tested by the heating being turned on and being warm.
The smoking issue i was having went away completely.. Switched it off let it cool for a few hours and started it back up. The standard black puff then no smoke.
Heres hoping that was all the **** burnt off , if not then maybe just the valve stem seals.
Also went round and stuck jubalee clips on all the hoses that need it after i started the engine forgetting i hadnt jubalee clipped the heater matrix hoses cue water away.
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top drive
Well-Known Member
my photography skills are somewhat ****e but after significant cleaning of the inside of the tubular outrigger and copious amount of copperslip i have my drivers side jackable sill on.
that lets me see easy whats out of alignment with the straight edge , tub needs to come down by a few mm, the hinges need to come down and tilt towards the back at the bottom and that should significantly improve my alignment issues with the doors.
tub slider on too.
