also - how slow are LR series .....

paddocks are definantly winning in the " need it now" stakes.... - other than my wideangle A frame ball joint - but thats not their fault - supplier stock issues - being ****part they probably redesigning them due to failure.


2 months and counting now.

any one used the X ball wide angle http://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=207 - how hard to remove old one and press in new with heat and a 10 T press ?
 
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No experience of the wide angle x-eng one, I just used a standard lemforder (if that's how you spell it :eek: ) one.
Mine took about 7-8T to come out, but I've heard of people having major trouble getting them out. Just chop the lugs off and give it a bash.
Getting the new one in is the easy bit. Think mine took 3-4T to get back in
 
i might well pull it and do that actually - before i order anything.

got a lemforder in the spares box but having fitted drop dislocation cones , cranked trailing arms and big shocks - seems a waste not to change the ball joint so i can actually used that extra travel for something.
 
top drive said:
i might well pull it and do that actually - before i order anything.

got a lemforder in the spares box but having fitted drop dislocation cones , cranked trailing arms and big shocks - seems a waste not to change the ball joint so i can actually used that extra travel for something.
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Ah, yes, I see, seems like a good idea then :)
Oh and yes trying to get the old one out first is probably a good idea, Think I've got a spare fulcrum somewhere if you can't get it to budge.
 
well if i break the works press again ill be in touch - burst the reaction plates on the I beam cross bar clean in half doing the radius arm bushes.
 
top drive said:
Can you get that sticker/badge any more - had quck look on ebay and didnt see much like that -and for true athenticity i feel i should have a "turbo D" under there as well like the 19js used to have.
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Yep - the oval badge is part number MXC6401, Turbo is MWC8256LUJ.

I got mine from LR parts direct but they weren't cheap :eek:
 
oooft cheers for the part numbers but at 20 quid plus vat for a pair of stickers they are at the bottom of the list of "requirements"
 
Woo paddocks got my fulcrum in stock and its on my way.


New gas can in the garage fire so its lovely warm now

Got the last bits for my brakes and the tub mounting pads .

Hopefully get that done this weekend

Off to work abroad for 3 weeks on tuesday :(
 
Not too much progress today had to go out this morning and empty a woodshed of a mate whos moving to norway and renting his house out. Tack Welded his stove door shut and took all his wood and coal to mine- stop his tennents using the stove.

Came home , finished welding the bulkhead ground it down and skimmed it wit p38 to smooth it off the dimples.

Also did the tub corrosion depressions on the primed side of the tub.

Primered half the bulkhead.

And run the cupronickle pipes from the wheel cylinders back to the flexy on the chassis. Cupronickle not too bad to work with tbh, bit tougher than copper but not terrible.
 
after a brief trip away - rescheduled for another date.

i now have a litre of marine blue and a litre of limestone - stratos blue was double the price so ill just rejig my plan to suit marine blue - i like it as a landy colour anyway :D

i also aquired a set of limestone steelies that need a tidy up FOC but will look far nicer than my disco steelies once i fit 7.50x16s.

this weekend i hope to get the filler and seam sealer finished + a coat of paint on in the garage.

Then get the bulkhead mounted again + engine wired up and see if it actually runs !
 
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Stripped the loom and steering column off the bulkhead and ground back the welding. Fitted top corners - 12inches of top rail- door posts , outrigger brackets and footwells

Then a skim of p38 and knifing putty to smooth it off

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%255BUNSET%255D.jpg


Ashtree it is not..... But better than twas it is.
 
Got a meeting with the boss in the morning to discuss my future after a minor argument........once thats done ill be getting this sanded , fully primered , seam sealed and working on the tub again - try and have that in primer by xmas.


Ended up going marine blue as it was cheaper , and i prefer it with the limestone roof.
 
Easiest way to remove windscreen ...... Dont fancy trying to paint / change the colour of that inside and out with the window in.

Going to paint the rear cab by hand - its already limestone at least.
 
Cut the seal but it's a nightmare to fit again. I took mine to scot glass and they refitted it for some kitty money
 
RAMBIRKETT said:
Cut the seal but it's a nightmare to fit again. I took mine to scot glass and they refitted it for some kitty money
Click to expand...

Got to be honest I've replaced 3 defender windscreens now and found them a piece of ****. The last one I replace took no more than 45mins to get the old one out, aperture cleaned and refitted with new rubber.:confused:

Just use plenty washing up liquid and a good quality string.
 
Landyfox said:
Got to be honest I've replaced 3 defender windscreens now and found them a piece of ****. The last one I replace took no more than 45mins to get the old one out, aperture cleaned and refitted with new rubber.:confused:

Just use plenty washing up liquid and a good quality string.
Click to expand...

Ah, an expert, that's good news, so when do you want to do mine then :p
 
No photaes but its in primer and grey stripe seam sealed on the footwells and along the top rail thAt stuff hides all sins.....

Hopefully get a splash of colour on it the morn.....if im not too hung over xmas drinks at casc and the grill (anyone that knows aberdeen knows how my heed will be the morn if i say i like a snifter of whisky :))
 
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