top drive
Well-Known Member
Original paint on the axel and tie rod.
Gear box bellhousing full of mud,needs a new slave though, fork is unmodified so ill get a new one. The thrust bearing was utterly shagged
Front shocks - no wonder it sidnt feel like any damping , there wasnt.
Quality engine i tell ya :/
Looks better in a pile than it did as the sorry ass truck i started with.
top drive
Well-Known Member
Not quite the progress i wanted today.
Had to go sweep a mates chimney since i sold him my old stove.
Got back to the landy at 14:00
Bulk head is one solid unit again.
Advice on best way to pull the loom out ? The colours should all add up when it comes to rebuild ?
Found a heap of extra shocking wiring for an alarm and some thin thin wiring for spot lights out front :/
Had to go sweep a mates chimney since i sold him my old stove.
Got back to the landy at 14:00
Bulk head is one solid unit again.
Advice on best way to pull the loom out ? The colours should all add up when it comes to rebuild ?
Found a heap of extra shocking wiring for an alarm and some thin thin wiring for spot lights out front :/
TheRealPlank
Active Member
Amateur wiring by previous owners is just the worst! I don't envy you!
And as for loom - if it where me, I'd take pictures of everything before I unplug it, and make note of the order. But depending on the condition of the loom pulled out, it might be worth getting a new one... I'd even consider making my own, using multi-core SY cable or something (metal-sheathed and would never ever break just sat in your chassis, even with some rubbing on tight corners and bits of swarf and sh*t that finds it way inside your chassis after a bit of exploring in the wild.
Pulling it though might be a pain in the ass though... 
Amateur wiring by previous owners is just the worst! I don't envy you!
And as for loom - if it where me, I'd take pictures of everything before I unplug it, and make note of the order. But depending on the condition of the loom pulled out, it might be worth getting a new one... I'd even consider making my own, using multi-core SY cable or something (metal-sheathed and would never ever break just sat in your chassis, even with some rubbing on tight corners and bits of swarf and sh*t that finds it way inside your chassis after a bit of exploring in the wild.
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
use the correct stuff - but thinwall.
TheRealPlank
Active Member
haha fair enough - why not SY then? Just out of interest.
its not designed foe automotive use.
like the cars that are wired up with only red n black - nitemare to work on. use the correct wire, correctly rated and correct colour code.
TheRealPlank
Active Member
I guess you're not going to get much trouble with rubbing etc on cables in chassis with all the rubber grommets etc.
But just because it's not designed for automotive use doesn't mean that it would necessarilay be inadequate for the job...
well named - Plank. feckin nitemare in the making
Auldgreen90
Active Member
If you pull the wires don't make the same mistake I've made! Thought I was being a smarty as paid attention to Ed China off Wheelers. Put masking tape on wires as was disconnecting and marked them with matching numbers so when I get round to re-connecting I just match the numbers. Seemples..........
That was over a year ago, the project lies outside so almost all the numbers have faded so can't read most of the numbers, either that or tapes broke up aaaarrrgh!
Watch this space for a future post. "Wiring advice" lol
That was over a year ago, the project lies outside so almost all the numbers have faded so can't read most of the numbers, either that or tapes broke up aaaarrrgh!
Watch this space for a future post. "Wiring advice" lol
top drive
Well-Known Member
I think im going to have a fun game of match the wiring to the colour chart when i get there,
Todays issue, some fud snapped the heads off the bumper bolts and decided to weld them to the bumper top. Thats fine, so i grind the welds off expecting them to drop out and the bumper to come off....newp.
Obviously they are through the lower plate too, without canibalising the bumper any tips ? Im thinking recip saw through the small hole on dumb iron as much as i can of the bolts then try and snap them off, hoping that gives me enough lift to unhook the lower plate.
Todays issue, some fud snapped the heads off the bumper bolts and decided to weld them to the bumper top. Thats fine, so i grind the welds off expecting them to drop out and the bumper to come off....newp.
Obviously they are through the lower plate too, without canibalising the bumper any tips ? Im thinking recip saw through the small hole on dumb iron as much as i can of the bolts then try and snap them off, hoping that gives me enough lift to unhook the lower plate.
TheRealPlank
Active Member
well named - Plank. feckin nitemare in the making
Least I'm not conducting tea party's and making everyone change places all the time!
top drive
Well-Known Member
Oh oh... Pay day.
New bottle of gas bought. Handily found out an old school friend is the manager at my local hobbyweld factor- cheap parts
350quid at gwyn lewis on rear trailing arms , front challenge kit and +12 shocks.
195quid at paddocks on new fuel tank , front springs , rear axel pan to weld on , new brake cylinders and adjusters for rear and new disks for the front. Suspect ill need new pistons for front calipers anorl but that can wait for inspection. Diff nose seals and gaskets for the carriers.
Should keep me busy till next month after xmas as i wont get any more pocket money for a while with xmas and such.
Should see my chassis back in a rolling state though. Baby steps
New bottle of gas bought. Handily found out an old school friend is the manager at my local hobbyweld factor- cheap parts
350quid at gwyn lewis on rear trailing arms , front challenge kit and +12 shocks.
195quid at paddocks on new fuel tank , front springs , rear axel pan to weld on , new brake cylinders and adjusters for rear and new disks for the front. Suspect ill need new pistons for front calipers anorl but that can wait for inspection. Diff nose seals and gaskets for the carriers.
Should keep me busy till next month after xmas as i wont get any more pocket money for a while with xmas and such.
Should see my chassis back in a rolling state though. Baby steps
top drive
Well-Known Member
And lets add radiusarm/panhard rod mounts for the front axel, looked suspect so i gave it a dunt with the chappy stick.
It did a chameleon and turned into orange dust.
Productive day, my chaassis and engine brackets all painted, suspension arms and pan hard rod all painted
Brakes off and pistons pulled out. They need changing, will get em blasted at work, painted and get new pistons and seals ordered up
It did a chameleon and turned into orange dust.
Productive day, my chaassis and engine brackets all painted, suspension arms and pan hard rod all painted
Brakes off and pistons pulled out. They need changing, will get em blasted at work, painted and get new pistons and seals ordered up
top drive
Well-Known Member
Masking didnt really work so ill just have to sand the paint out wiht a flap wheel.hope its fairly close to gwyns trailing arms.
Its pitted but is that a huge issue, doesnt leak yet , probably get worse once i use it but i dont want to spent 160 on balls and housings right now if ill get a little while out of them so i can get my other axels sorted.
top drive
Well-Known Member
paddocks have dispatched my stuff - yay - should have everything to have a rolling chassis this weekend all going well.
going to strip and clean the calipers tonight ready for the new stainless pistons and seals.
do the seals for the caliper joint come in a seal kit or is it purely piston seals in the kits ? - its the lockheed ones on paddocks i went for.
also got radius arm mounts and pan hard brackets to weld on the front axel from YRM on their way.
just did a running total on what the truck owes me in parts .... sitting at 4700 inc buying the truck ERK - how ever its a different beast from the rotter i drove around for 8 months .... its in pieces now.
going to strip and clean the calipers tonight ready for the new stainless pistons and seals.
do the seals for the caliper joint come in a seal kit or is it purely piston seals in the kits ? - its the lockheed ones on paddocks i went for.
also got radius arm mounts and pan hard brackets to weld on the front axel from YRM on their way.
just did a running total on what the truck owes me in parts .... sitting at 4700 inc buying the truck ERK - how ever its a different beast from the rotter i drove around for 8 months .... its in pieces now.
