Land Raver
Well-Known Member
I thought mine ran reasonably well....I wouldn't fire it up and leave it running in the garage for too long though. The first half minute after a cold start is usually a bit too smokey
robbh
Crazier than a box of frogs on acid
A close up shot of the finish we got with the brush and roller for Trax (sorry for the delay)
Also Tonight I gave the old landy a run and took a video (we all like a good video). Runs a lot nicer
Land Rover series 3 engine run - YouTube
:clap2::clap2: looking good, definitely looking forward to seeing it in the flesh on the laning trip
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
that sounds really sweet, lot nicer than mine does
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
mine is especially smokey in winter when its freezing, if I see one of the neighbours I don't like coming along the road I wait till they are nearly going past then I fire it up :clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2:
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
Okay, a little update, got the tunnel and seats in. The floor was put down but then remembered I need to put mastic on there first :doh: So that will be done tomorrow.
Today, I've painted the sump and just done some touching up of the chassis's black paint while my Dad has been doing a little more on our centre console radio holder thingy.
Earlier we drove the series out the garage to turn it round to put it on the ramps and even with the doors off and no headlining, its already quieter than it used to be so result
Will get some piccy's tomorrow when we get the floor and stuff in
Today, I've painted the sump and just done some touching up of the chassis's black paint while my Dad has been doing a little more on our centre console radio holder thingy.
Earlier we drove the series out the garage to turn it round to put it on the ramps and even with the doors off and no headlining, its already quieter than it used to be so result
Will get some piccy's tomorrow when we get the floor and stuff in
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onecelledcreature
Active Member
make sure you're definitely not going to need to pull it up again if you do that.
are you nearly there with this then?
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
Well it looks nearly done but still a bit to go yet,
main jobs now are, swivel and hub overhaul/ replacement,
carpetting and repairing the doors as well as a few other bits and pieces
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
Thanks mate
Right then another update methinks.
We were getting fed up with constantly shifting stuff around the garage and we had some wood to use up so we built ourelves a few shelves in the top end of the garage for putting project bits and pieces on.
This now of course means the back of the landy could be cleared out
This also shows the roof on and the ladder on temporarily to keep it out of the way.
Inside has been bolted in now and is ready for carpet
And a couple of pics showing how our homemade radio console will fit (the notch is so we can get into reverse
While my dad had a week off he welded up the door bottoms and put soundproofing in them
This morning I painted the door tops ready for putting the glass in over the next week hopefully
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
Right then tonight we set about removing the glass from the drivers door top (doing one at a time to reduce risk of mixing parts up)
First job was to remove the aluminium strip at the front of the glass using a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the screws
Next the rubber stop was removed
Then the 4 screws in the felt runner were removed. These are difficult to spot and go in at an angle
Once these screws are out, you can tilt the sliding glass and remove it from the frame
One of the filler pieces
Using a blade the old mastic type stuff was removed (very carefully so as not to damage the glass and prevent it cracking)
This bit can then be removed
The window lock was then removed by drilling through the rivets that hold it on. I'm going to try and get some stickaflex to use when putting the glass back in (maybe tomorrow if I can get some)
First job was to remove the aluminium strip at the front of the glass using a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the screws
Next the rubber stop was removed
Then the 4 screws in the felt runner were removed. These are difficult to spot and go in at an angle
Once these screws are out, you can tilt the sliding glass and remove it from the frame
One of the filler pieces
Using a blade the old mastic type stuff was removed (very carefully so as not to damage the glass and prevent it cracking)
This bit can then be removed
The window lock was then removed by drilling through the rivets that hold it on. I'm going to try and get some stickaflex to use when putting the glass back in (maybe tomorrow if I can get some)
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
Okay I'm back! One thing I forgot to mention is there are 4 filler strips in the window, One at the back, one at the bottom and 2 at the top (one above the sliding window and a flat one above the fixed pane of glass.
When putting the window lock in you may have to file the opening for i as if it's tight it will pinch on the sliding bit and will be stupidly tight to use if left like that. So I went around the swuare hole with a file until it fitted loosely and voila, the window lock works nicely now Also the bottom felt rail needs a hole cutting in the bottom for the window lock to actually go through to lock the window so that was done before fitting/
Tada! One finished window
Cleaned up the back door on Tuesday and its pretty good, the bottom has got a couple of holes so a strip will be welded in to fix that and then the doors are ready to be fitted
Then its onto my axle swivels and then annoyingly to rebuilding my steering relay which somehow has only started leaking within the last 3 days :/ Oh well, it'll be done!
When putting the window lock in you may have to file the opening for i as if it's tight it will pinch on the sliding bit and will be stupidly tight to use if left like that. So I went around the swuare hole with a file until it fitted loosely and voila, the window lock works nicely now
Also the bottom felt rail needs a hole cutting in the bottom for the window lock to actually go through to lock the window so that was done before fitting/Tada! One finished window
Cleaned up the back door on Tuesday and its pretty good, the bottom has got a couple of holes so a strip will be welded in to fix that and then the doors are ready to be fitted
Then its onto my axle swivels and then annoyingly to rebuilding my steering relay which somehow has only started leaking within the last 3 days :/ Oh well, it'll be done!
davebeccles
Active Member
Nice to see someone else itching to get back to it after the festivities! Got a whole day tomorrow so should get cracking again.
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
Thanks
Got the doors back together today. Lost the nuts for holding the door tops to the bottoms so ordered some new ones :doh:Anyone who has to get new nuts the thread size is 7/16 UNF
Also started putting door seals on today. They're the rubber on the roll things from paddocks and we're putting them on using sicaflex (seen a few people on a couple of other forums who have done this and seems to be okay).
Also screwed in the radio console thingy today and bolted in the passenger seat
Will get pics tomorrow of everything we've done
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
Right then, first up a couple of pics of the doors now they have been reunited with the door tops
As mentioned, the back door was ready to be worked on
It had holes in the bottom which were fixed by cutting out the old steel and welding in a new plate
There was also a big hole around where the door lock goes so this was welded up. (the picture shows it before the welds were ground back down)
The door was then given a coat of kurust and then I painted the steel sections with red oxide
The next task was door seals, these are the on the roll ones from paddocks which dont have a metal strip in them. I have heard some stories of these not fitting well when put on but so far they seem to sit in the channel quite well and when stuck in place seem to match the old ones, we shall see when the doors are put on. It does help to cut the seals to length beforehand.
The way we stick them on is to wipe where the door seal sits clean with white spirit and wait for that to dry, then using sicaflex, a good bead is run down the channel. The seal is then pushed in place and held with spring clamps to ensure the sicaflex bonds properly.
With little clamps you can use them direct on the rubber but with larger more powwerful clamps, we used a bit of wood on top of the rubber to protect it. Here are some pics to show it
Clamps and wood in place:
many clamps are put on the curved section by the doors to help hold the rubber down and give it a chance to bond properly
Heres one we prepared earlier (its actually a lot straighter than it looks in the picture on the windscreen edge). The sicaflex has bonded to it well and it makes for a good strong bond
We elected to do the back door seal in one piece instead of 5 (excuse the poor lighting)
Also swapped the transfer box knobs around for new ones. The yellow one is a pain, you need to get underneath and wedge something so that the yellow lever does not push down (i.e. it is kept in the fully up position). Then you put the spring on and compress it enough for the thread on the locknut/knob to start (you can compress with no tools, just using your hands). One hand kept the spring compressed and the other wound the nut/ knob on. The manual states that when the lever is depressed, "adjust the locknut until the compressed spring length is 58mm (2.312" ) "
The console has been fitted at the top, just needs attaching at the bottom (hence the gap)
I dont think I showed you how we mounted the stereo aerial so heres a couple of pics
with it fully extended
More to come soon! Going to finish off the seals tomorrow (we leave the sicaflex overnight to allow it to get a strong bond - it does go off quicker but its better than disturbing it beforehand) and then when they're done the doors are ready to go on
As mentioned, the back door was ready to be worked on
It had holes in the bottom which were fixed by cutting out the old steel and welding in a new plate
There was also a big hole around where the door lock goes so this was welded up. (the picture shows it before the welds were ground back down)
The door was then given a coat of kurust and then I painted the steel sections with red oxide
The next task was door seals, these are the on the roll ones from paddocks which dont have a metal strip in them. I have heard some stories of these not fitting well when put on but so far they seem to sit in the channel quite well and when stuck in place seem to match the old ones, we shall see when the doors are put on. It does help to cut the seals to length beforehand.
The way we stick them on is to wipe where the door seal sits clean with white spirit and wait for that to dry, then using sicaflex, a good bead is run down the channel. The seal is then pushed in place and held with spring clamps to ensure the sicaflex bonds properly.
With little clamps you can use them direct on the rubber but with larger more powwerful clamps, we used a bit of wood on top of the rubber to protect it. Here are some pics to show it
Clamps and wood in place:
many clamps are put on the curved section by the doors to help hold the rubber down and give it a chance to bond properly
Heres one we prepared earlier (its actually a lot straighter than it looks in the picture on the windscreen edge). The sicaflex has bonded to it well and it makes for a good strong bond
We elected to do the back door seal in one piece instead of 5 (excuse the poor lighting)
Also swapped the transfer box knobs around for new ones. The yellow one is a pain, you need to get underneath and wedge something so that the yellow lever does not push down (i.e. it is kept in the fully up position). Then you put the spring on and compress it enough for the thread on the locknut/knob to start (you can compress with no tools, just using your hands). One hand kept the spring compressed and the other wound the nut/ knob on. The manual states that when the lever is depressed, "adjust the locknut until the compressed spring length is 58mm (2.312" ) "
The console has been fitted at the top, just needs attaching at the bottom (hence the gap)
I dont think I showed you how we mounted the stereo aerial so heres a couple of pics
with it fully extended
More to come soon! Going to finish off the seals tomorrow (we leave the sicaflex overnight to allow it to get a strong bond - it does go off quicker but its better than disturbing it beforehand) and then when they're done the doors are ready to go on
davebeccles
Active Member
Lovely job Sam, keep going!
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
Right then another update!
The canvas bonnet strip. What I did with this was cut it to length and then before fitting, light a match and put it to the end. Doing this melts the end and prevents it from fraying later on.
It was decided to rivet this on, so first job is of course to make some holes. The holes are already in the front slam panel so an old scribe (also known as a sharp pokey thing) was used to locate and push through the holes. If a drill was used it would snag and rip up the fabric, using the scriber leaves a nice smooth hole with no frayed edges.
Fixed in place
My new shocks (procomp extended ones) were also fitted in place of the britpart standard ones. These are extended due to the suspension lift (about 2") caused by the parabolics fitted.
Afterwards the drum was painted black. We also cleaned up the wheels and painted the front red oxide as primer (will be limestone) and the back in black.
We also fitted the doors
We also finally bolted the seats in. Top tip for anyone keeping the centre seat: get a grinder and cut a slot in top of the bracket the bolt goes through. Then put the bolts in the seat first and it drops straight it. Its a bit of a pain putting the bolts in and lining them up with the holes in the seat when the other two are in.
Got a big update about ding the swivels coming up in a bit once the pics are uploaded
The canvas bonnet strip. What I did with this was cut it to length and then before fitting, light a match and put it to the end. Doing this melts the end and prevents it from fraying later on.
It was decided to rivet this on, so first job is of course to make some holes. The holes are already in the front slam panel so an old scribe (also known as a sharp pokey thing) was used to locate and push through the holes. If a drill was used it would snag and rip up the fabric, using the scriber leaves a nice smooth hole with no frayed edges.
Fixed in place
My new shocks (procomp extended ones) were also fitted in place of the britpart standard ones. These are extended due to the suspension lift (about 2") caused by the parabolics fitted.
Afterwards the drum was painted black. We also cleaned up the wheels and painted the front red oxide as primer (will be limestone) and the back in black.
We also fitted the doors
We also finally bolted the seats in. Top tip for anyone keeping the centre seat: get a grinder and cut a slot in top of the bracket the bolt goes through. Then put the bolts in the seat first and it drops straight it. Its a bit of a pain putting the bolts in and lining them up with the holes in the seat when the other two are in.
Got a big update about ding the swivels coming up in a bit once the pics are uploaded
