Stretch
Well-Known Member
Moving house is always dreadful - you're lucky to have everything in one place though - well worth the grief. (I've got 3 storage areas and 2 workplaces!)
As expected "the workshop" is still taking up more time than expected.
Making stuff from scratch does suck up the minutes. The latest Project Binky shows it very clearly =>
I'm still finding bits "that could do with a bit more weld" on that bloody English Wheel frame I started back in the day
...and to think this was meant to be a lightweight table top frame...
Barge Pilot
Member
I love Project Binky! I love reading this thread, too. Keep it up!
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Given half a chance I'll be doing something a little bit Project Binky next - though not with a Mini (far too small)
I hope you are indeed a barge pilot in Holland - that would be cool - especially if it is an old one - Test: Verwacht weinig progres in de aankomende week, het is al herfst vakantie en de kinderen mogen op bezoek komen. Bioscoop en Burger King in plaats van metaal slan...
Barge Pilot
Member
I did have a boat & drove a Range Rover so Barge Pilot seemed like an apt username. It was a wooden sailboat and it's gone now - met een boot werk je je dood!
I absolutely love this thread because of the fabrication that's going on and I love Project Binky for the same reason, so that struck a chord. I'm afraid I've only made a bracket or two myself for my 109 (although I did home-brew a 10 ton press for removing those bl**dy ball joints on the P38.)
I don't want to hijack the thread so back to you.
PS: Herfstvakantie = ik zat bij Kapitein Onderbroek & Professor Poepiebroek (Captain Underpants & Professor Poopypants)
I absolutely love this thread because of the fabrication that's going on and I love Project Binky for the same reason, so that struck a chord. I'm afraid I've only made a bracket or two myself for my 109 (although I did home-brew a 10 ton press for removing those bl**dy ball joints on the P38.)
I don't want to hijack the thread so back to you.
PS: Herfstvakantie = ik zat bij Kapitein Onderbroek & Professor Poepiebroek (Captain Underpants & Professor Poopypants)
Stretch
Well-Known Member
The latest tangent pictures (yes yes Land Rover next)
I'm quite happy with the effect of the crap welding and the buggered looks of this trolley (I'm going all arty again)
Still lots to do of course - only three sides are clad. I suppose with hindsight I should have guessed I'd run out of scrap metal! Still there's a pretty good chance of yet more metal working failures in the future so the bits to do will be done in the end.
I'm quite happy with the effect of the crap welding and the buggered looks of this trolley (I'm going all arty again)
Still lots to do of course - only three sides are clad. I suppose with hindsight I should have guessed I'd run out of scrap metal! Still there's a pretty good chance of yet more metal working failures in the future so the bits to do will be done in the end.
Nick666
Active Member
Great stuff, keep it up!
It's going to look fantastic!
I confess a certain affection for cars which have A1+ mechanicals but with bodywork that shows their history. Somehow they're more nostalgic somehow? But who doesn't love a car that has all the care and attention you've lavished upon it to look at least as good as it did when it came out of the factory?
Yea totally what I'm hoping to achieve in the end with mine - a bit of character, but mechanically tip top underneath. One day...
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Back to some Land Rovering today!
Holy moly
BULKHEAD (partial) DAY TWENTY SIX (PART ONE)
In the quote above you can see the bit that needed to be made a little bit closer to "done" - this is a section of the upper A post - the bit where the lump of angle iron is welded onto for the windscreen
Port and starboard =>
<= don't forget they are coloured for different cut directions
Keeping it silly simple - padding out a gap for 19mm for the gutter for the door seal - 18mm OSB + 1mm Zincor = 19mm gap (more or less)
Clamp in vice - tap with 'ammer
Using small bits of OSB and metal to do the curve carefully =>
(Goodness me)
Ho Lee Furque @Shortbase I've found a use for the joggling pliers! (I said I'd let you know - didn't know it would be so quick)
^^^^^
Just using the flat bit at the front of the jaws to flatten out the 'ammering a bit (not making a step)
So there we have it for the time being. As you'll see in a bit - all looks good in the deep dark wood - but the parts still need to fit together - I expect adjustments will be required...
...to be continued
Stretch
Well-Known Member
BULKHEAD (partial) DAY TWENTY SIX (PART TWO)
Right before I get ahead of myself (and fool myself into thinking that the custom made bits are more or less completed) I decided to start working towards a trial fit stage. The A post parts are fairly complicated to make - they have to fit really nicely together so they can be spot welded in place.
If you have gaps - you will only make distortion - make holes in the "pressed" metal structure
So here's the modified door post being aligned to the holes for the door hinges in the existing / remaining part of the bulkhead
(As you can see a gap in the gutter for the door seal is prevalent - this will be fixed at a later date)
The more important gap to get right at the moment is the alignment between the modified replacement A post and the existing upper A post structure.
As you can see there's a bit of a lump left by someone when he welded on some extra metal so that the replacement A post actually has a gutter for the door seal =>
This is simple to fix if you've got something to 'ammer up against.
These little shoemaker anvils are ideal =>
(These little shoemaker anvils are widely available - don't pay silly ebay money for them - it will only encourage the a-holes! I paid 10 euros for mine - I've seen them on the bay with asking prices of up to 150 quid - mental)
Anyway with that part adjusted on the replacement lower A post I then saw that my carefully made inner curve doesn't match the curve on the lower A post
Metal needed to be "pushed" in the direction shown below =>
This was done quite quickly on the shoemakers anvil again.
Unfortunately I got a rip in the metal
Having learnt something from seeing two child births I'm of the opinion that rips should be repaired ASAP instead of pushing on (so to speak)
So bit of gas welding
Bit of hand filing - yes sometimes power tools are just too dangerous!
The curve has been adjusted a bit - probably need a bit more work as I've got to blend it into a repositioned fold =>
Again there's too much of a gap - so this fold needs to be repositioned. I'll show that next time as I'm not sure if what I've done so far is going to work...
...ultimately the position of this fold is pretty important. The inner part (that is being adjusted) needs to fit nicely on the front panel and butt up nicely against the rest of the A post construction so that the ends of the lower A posts splay out at a right angle and at the correct distance from the other A post for the foot wells...
Right before I get ahead of myself (and fool myself into thinking that the custom made bits are more or less completed) I decided to start working towards a trial fit stage. The A post parts are fairly complicated to make - they have to fit really nicely together so they can be spot welded in place.
If you have gaps - you will only make distortion - make holes in the "pressed" metal structure
So here's the modified door post being aligned to the holes for the door hinges in the existing / remaining part of the bulkhead
(As you can see a gap in the gutter for the door seal is prevalent - this will be fixed at a later date)
The more important gap to get right at the moment is the alignment between the modified replacement A post and the existing upper A post structure.
As you can see there's a bit of a lump left by someone when he welded on some extra metal so that the replacement A post actually has a gutter for the door seal =>
This is simple to fix if you've got something to 'ammer up against.
These little shoemaker anvils are ideal =>
(These little shoemaker anvils are widely available - don't pay silly ebay money for them - it will only encourage the a-holes! I paid 10 euros for mine - I've seen them on the bay with asking prices of up to 150 quid - mental)
Anyway with that part adjusted on the replacement lower A post I then saw that my carefully made inner curve doesn't match the curve on the lower A post
Metal needed to be "pushed" in the direction shown below =>
This was done quite quickly on the shoemakers anvil again.
Unfortunately I got a rip in the metal
Having learnt something from seeing two child births I'm of the opinion that rips should be repaired ASAP instead of pushing on (so to speak)
So bit of gas welding
Bit of hand filing - yes sometimes power tools are just too dangerous!
The curve has been adjusted a bit - probably need a bit more work as I've got to blend it into a repositioned fold =>
Again there's too much of a gap - so this fold needs to be repositioned. I'll show that next time as I'm not sure if what I've done so far is going to work...
...ultimately the position of this fold is pretty important. The inner part (that is being adjusted) needs to fit nicely on the front panel and butt up nicely against the rest of the A post construction so that the ends of the lower A posts splay out at a right angle and at the correct distance from the other A post for the foot wells...
Headtester
Active Member
Great stuff, keep the updates coming!
Just a case of having the right tool in your toolbox for that particular job! Bet you’re glad you bought them now
Stretch
Well-Known Member
I'm glad to have finally had it make a positive contribution...
...not sure I'd buy it again though. I wonder if I can convert the jaws to being totally flat with out the step. May be then they'd be more popular (with me)
Stretch
Well-Known Member
BULKHEAD (partial) DAY TWENTY SEVEN
Hardly anytime spent on it today (less than an hour) but I'll add in what happened so I don't have to bother later on
Because of the ripping and cracking I warmed the fold (that was in the wrong place) with the oxy acetylene torch before bashing it back flattish =>
As expected bashing the fold flattish on the shoemakers anvil distorted the panel quite badly...
...the shape came back OK after refolding a crease with those vice mounted jaws (bloody good buy those things)
Back onto the hammer form to get the curve back in shape after the adjustment =>
Still a little bit bent after the repositioning of the fold =>
^^^^^ That was easily fixed
Comparing the replacement A post to the inner stiffener I have made shows that the edges of the new gutter for the door seal is too rounded...
...my fault - I should have put more effort into it! I've got to make it crisper: Nice 90 degree edges which the complicated curved shape
#####
I've been scratching me nuts about this problem all afternoon and have reached the conclusion that this means I have to make another blinking hammer form to correct this gutter on the replacement A post. (More effing effort for something that should have been done properly in the first place)
Unfortunately because I am sick and tired of the dust created when cutting tropical hardwood I feel a tangent coming on...
Hardly anytime spent on it today (less than an hour) but I'll add in what happened so I don't have to bother later on
Because of the ripping and cracking I warmed the fold (that was in the wrong place) with the oxy acetylene torch before bashing it back flattish =>
As expected bashing the fold flattish on the shoemakers anvil distorted the panel quite badly...
...the shape came back OK after refolding a crease with those vice mounted jaws (bloody good buy those things)
Back onto the hammer form to get the curve back in shape after the adjustment =>
Still a little bit bent after the repositioning of the fold =>
^^^^^ That was easily fixed
Comparing the replacement A post to the inner stiffener I have made shows that the edges of the new gutter for the door seal is too rounded...
...my fault - I should have put more effort into it! I've got to make it crisper: Nice 90 degree edges which the complicated curved shape
#####
I've been scratching me nuts about this problem all afternoon and have reached the conclusion that this means I have to make another blinking hammer form to correct this gutter on the replacement A post. (More effing effort for something that should have been done properly in the first place)
Unfortunately because I am sick and tired of the dust created when cutting tropical hardwood I feel a tangent coming on...
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Distraction today
The neighbour moved out. Last of the decent sized boats to go. Bit of a shame as it is kind of the rats leaving the sinking ship so to speak - I need to find somewhere else for the workshop by April too.
I was planning a nice little tangent today but instead was hindered by "could you just..." and "have you got..." and "I left mine at home but if you..."
He's done a nice job on the inside hasn't he?
300,000 euros worth of lifting machine and lorry apparently - I'm saving up for one of me own - ultimate toy
The neighbour moved out. Last of the decent sized boats to go. Bit of a shame as it is kind of the rats leaving the sinking ship so to speak - I need to find somewhere else for the workshop by April too.
I was planning a nice little tangent today but instead was hindered by "could you just..." and "have you got..." and "I left mine at home but if you..."
He's done a nice job on the inside hasn't he?
300,000 euros worth of lifting machine and lorry apparently - I'm saving up for one of me own - ultimate toy
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Well October has been a month of getting nowhere, being busy with tangents and other diversions.
Bit of a shame.
Still no sense in fighting it!
To finish off October here's the latest tangent that will (hopefully) help reduce workshop dust
I got Oscar's house for ten euros - bargain
Bit of a shame.
Still no sense in fighting it!
To finish off October here's the latest tangent that will (hopefully) help reduce workshop dust
I got Oscar's house for ten euros - bargain
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Bits of Zincor bent to 90 degrees then put through the stretcher jaws to match the curve of the bin - then spot welded to bargain dustbin (cost 10 euros at one of those shops full of Chinese products)
Been cutting out many many plywood rings with the router to make mating surfaces
Hmmm - I think I need a middle ring too...
...back to the plywood and the router...
Stretch
Well-Known Member
What with being sick progress seems to be hitting an all time low...
...still arsing about with the latest tangent
First bit of perspex snapped in two - thought it was cos I drilled holes...
...so I tried a new piece and heated it to help form the correct circular shape with the heat gun
Seemed alright
Until =>
Probably due to "cheap" extruded perspex (that actually cost a whole heap of cash) and not the decent stuff. I really wanted to see the saw dust swirling about but I've wasted too much time on this already (no surprises there!) so I've gone for the 0.5mm steel sheet option =>
Kinda spacey man
...still arsing about with the latest tangent
First bit of perspex snapped in two - thought it was cos I drilled holes...
...so I tried a new piece and heated it to help form the correct circular shape with the heat gun
Seemed alright
Until =>
Probably due to "cheap" extruded perspex (that actually cost a whole heap of cash) and not the decent stuff. I really wanted to see the saw dust swirling about but I've wasted too much time on this already (no surprises there!) so I've gone for the 0.5mm steel sheet option =>
Kinda spacey man
Stretch
Well-Known Member
BULKHEAD (partial) DAY TWENTY EIGHT
Kind of hash tag more complicated and interconnected than I had hoped dot com today...
...this blinking A post...
...this blinking bulkhead...
##########
Lots more woodwork than I'd like to do has been done to make up hammer forms for the various parts - I'm now making parts that help clamp the individual bits together to make sure there isn't going to be a whole mess when I try and spot weld the parts into one
This is why the wood dust extracting tangent is important - I need to make the workshop a more healthy place otherwise I won't live long enough to finish this sodding project!
############
So anyway 'ere's the progress so far
I've got a big bit of plywood - shaped to size - supporting the outer curved "designer bump" edge of the A post (that crappy replacement A post that should ideally have been made properly in the first place)
On the side (towards the hammer) of this "designer bump" support piece there's another lump of plywood helping with the shaping of the modified door seal gutter I added
Hammering and G-clamping the edges of the new door seal gutter into a squarer shape =>
...now the inner support (that you normally can't see because it is inside the bulkhead) needs to fit nicely into part of the "designer bump" which is also the door seal gutter...
Previously I had adjusted this bit because the fold in the panel I made was in the wrong place.
The picture below shows that yet again I need to adjust it some more
Stupid simple: Tw(h)at it with an 'ammer on the shoemakers anvil to flatten out the crease and hope this time Mungo has got his measurements right
Will it be three times a charm?
And back into the vice mounted sheet metal bending jaws (Even if you've got a fully fitted professional work shop with super expensive proper equipment I reckon these simple things are well worth the 20 quid / 30 euros - well handy)
Back into another vice with the other hammer forms I originally used to make this panel to squash it flat after the shoemakers anvil incident (...!)
######
Right deep breath - try and explain
######
Now I've got a new bit of wood to clamp the replacement A post to the under "designer bump" support and a bit that flicks up to hold the inner A post support structure that you don't normally see
This is needed to stop the replacement A post from warping as I'm going to be hammering the two parts together so there isn't a gap between them
So I've now got the inner stiffener fitted (the bit you don't normally see) clamped in place so I can dig out the rivet gun and the Elephant's foot to make it all join up nicely
To be continued
Kind of hash tag more complicated and interconnected than I had hoped dot com today...
...this blinking A post...
...this blinking bulkhead...
##########
Lots more woodwork than I'd like to do has been done to make up hammer forms for the various parts - I'm now making parts that help clamp the individual bits together to make sure there isn't going to be a whole mess when I try and spot weld the parts into one
This is why the wood dust extracting tangent is important - I need to make the workshop a more healthy place otherwise I won't live long enough to finish this sodding project!
############
So anyway 'ere's the progress so far
I've got a big bit of plywood - shaped to size - supporting the outer curved "designer bump" edge of the A post (that crappy replacement A post that should ideally have been made properly in the first place)
On the side (towards the hammer) of this "designer bump" support piece there's another lump of plywood helping with the shaping of the modified door seal gutter I added
Hammering and G-clamping the edges of the new door seal gutter into a squarer shape =>
...now the inner support (that you normally can't see because it is inside the bulkhead) needs to fit nicely into part of the "designer bump" which is also the door seal gutter...
Previously I had adjusted this bit because the fold in the panel I made was in the wrong place.
The picture below shows that yet again I need to adjust it some more
Stupid simple: Tw(h)at it with an 'ammer on the shoemakers anvil to flatten out the crease and hope this time Mungo has got his measurements right
Will it be three times a charm?
And back into the vice mounted sheet metal bending jaws (Even if you've got a fully fitted professional work shop with super expensive proper equipment I reckon these simple things are well worth the 20 quid / 30 euros - well handy)
Back into another vice with the other hammer forms I originally used to make this panel to squash it flat after the shoemakers anvil incident (...!)
######
Right deep breath - try and explain
######
Now I've got a new bit of wood to clamp the replacement A post to the under "designer bump" support and a bit that flicks up to hold the inner A post support structure that you don't normally see
This is needed to stop the replacement A post from warping as I'm going to be hammering the two parts together so there isn't a gap between them
So I've now got the inner stiffener fitted (the bit you don't normally see) clamped in place so I can dig out the rivet gun and the Elephant's foot to make it all join up nicely
To be continued
Stretch
Well-Known Member
...and back to the latest tangent.
I've just noticed I haven't added the important links that demonstrate better what I'm up to:
http://www.jpthien.com/cy.htm
There are loads of "Thein" cyclone variations to see on the toob
Such as
######
Basically these separators save workshop vacuum filters. On my shop vac I can use two filters a week - especially if I'm unlucky and the sodding bag drops off inside the drum and the muck goes directly into the filter. Each filter costs about 12 euros - bloody adds up somewhat eh?
######
As you can see I've built me a trolley that holds the bargain dustbin and cyclone top along with the new SIP woodworking dust extractor vacuum (I will be able to plug in the shop vac to the cyclone too) as well as handy storage for the expensive filters and the hoover bags
^^^^^
Just a little recess to help hold the SIP vacuum in place - tis a heavy little sod for what it is so hopefully it'll sit in position
^^^^
The cyclone bit has been made tall enough so I can fit in a side pipe if need be - I'm gonna just made the lid design as shown in the LINK above first though and see how that goes
More organised storage - blinkin' 'eck - might be able to find stuff after this!
I've just noticed I haven't added the important links that demonstrate better what I'm up to:
http://www.jpthien.com/cy.htm
There are loads of "Thein" cyclone variations to see on the toob
Such as
######
Basically these separators save workshop vacuum filters. On my shop vac I can use two filters a week - especially if I'm unlucky and the sodding bag drops off inside the drum and the muck goes directly into the filter. Each filter costs about 12 euros - bloody adds up somewhat eh?
######
As you can see I've built me a trolley that holds the bargain dustbin and cyclone top along with the new SIP woodworking dust extractor vacuum (I will be able to plug in the shop vac to the cyclone too) as well as handy storage for the expensive filters and the hoover bags
^^^^^
Just a little recess to help hold the SIP vacuum in place - tis a heavy little sod for what it is so hopefully it'll sit in position
^^^^
The cyclone bit has been made tall enough so I can fit in a side pipe if need be - I'm gonna just made the lid design as shown in the LINK above first though and see how that goes
More organised storage - blinkin' 'eck - might be able to find stuff after this!
