Well it is a mad world.

Today I saw this (I always read the instructions for things these days because some of the translations are priceless - this time it was from Polish into English)

Bear in mind this is just a trendy disco coloured spray bottle

Spray bottle safety instructions1.JPG


Spray bottle safety instructions2.JPG


So all of you ****ed up drug taking pregnant teenagers are FORBIDDEN to use this spray bottle...

...so keep ya hands off it right?
 
How did that get sold in Holland ?

I would have thought with that warning it would be banned.....

Cheers
 
(Where's the small font? I need to say this very quietly - I bought it in the UK)


Oooooh,................where ??? I need to get one.

but that is fine in the UK, as we do not have a Drink, drugs, or pregnant teenagers problem..............Honest.......:oops::oops::oops:

Cheers
 
Oooooh,................where ??? I need to get one.

but that is fine in the UK, as we do not have a Drink, drugs, or pregnant teenagers problem..............Honest.......:oops::oops::oops:

Cheers
Special offer on Frosts

http://www.frost.co.uk/chemico-comp...sure-sprayer-cleaner-degreaser-1-5-litre.html

They are back being expensive now though.

Seems very similar to anything you'd find from a typical DIY shop to me...

...even though it is meant to be resistant to chemicals. We'll see
 
(Ages ago) When I dismantled the suspension the plates that go under the (road) springs were a bit rusty - especially under the locking plates for the nuts and the U-bolts.

I initially thought I'd "just get some new ones" - unfortunately these seem to be hard to find / 'king expensive when you do find them. So I've been welding in new metal where there was once air and rust.

Oh yes, before we get to see the pictures of the progress so far, I need to explain the weird colour of the items! They were removed - wire brushed and then left to sit in that Rustyco rust killing solution. Unfortunately I'd been de-rusting galvanised parts in the solution before which is why they kind of have a galvanised grey sheen to them. They have also been sitting about on a window sill for a while and have kind of gone a little bit green...

...Hmmm - they will be sand blasted and painted properly now I've got that sand blast cabinet almost playing ball. So there's the reason - bit weird - never mind gorra try these things out.

1965 series 2a station wagon spring plates refurbish1.JPG


Above shows the area (well kind of shows it - sorry!) where the rust has been and done its evil work

It is pitted and lower than it should be. If I fit a new locking plate on this there will probably be a gap / bent-ness going on which might help things to come loose. I want it to be flat.

Bit of a (stick) welding interlude for those who may not know.

On the outside of many / most packets of welding rods you'll see recommended steel thicknesses and the amps setting. According to the packet I shouldn't be using these 4mm thick rods on this 6mm(ish) thick steel.

Thing is ('ere it comes!) I'm not joining two lumps of metal together I want to spread out a whole load of material in an old rust ditch. If I were to use the thinner rods (obeying the packet) there's a fairly good chance I'd end up with slag getting stuck in the weld. Slag is a bit of bitch - it is often quite hard to get out when trapped in a weld. Slag melts at a higher temperature than metal so you can't burn it away or try and weld over it. "Slag inclusion" is something you do not want - ik makes welds / metal weak.

1965 series 2a station wagon spring plates refurbishment2.JPG


So anyway - getting enough penetration - not just quickly laying metal on top of some other metal (which might just fall off!) and moving fast enough so you don't get slag forming in the "rust ditch" is the order of the day.

1965 series 2a station wagon spring plates refurbishment3.JPG


If done correctly you'll have the slag floating on top of the weld and forming a nice hard crust which can easily be tapped away (see above - shells on the work surface to the right of the spring plate)

1965 series 2a station wagon spring plates refurbishment4.JPG


Then it is the usual 30 days and 30 nights with the angle grinder getting it flat...

...and wondering "where did I leave that dremel tool for rounding out the holes again?"
 
Had a good look at the rear tub today. 'Been measuring how much (5251) aluminium I think I'm going to need.

I also decided to clean things up a bit and see just how rusty the few steel parts actually are.

Shockingly it isn't that bad at all. (Well on a scale with the rest of the vehicle!)

Gentle dusting with a wire brush attachment in the drill =>

1965 series 2a station wagon rear tub cleaning up1.JPG


Drilled off the first steel reinforcing bit to see what was underneath (more dried muck)

1965 series 2a station wagon rear tub cleaning up2.JPG


The steel is in pretty good shape

The Birmabright underneath, however, needs to be fixed.

1965 series 2a station wagon rear tub cleaning up3.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon rear tub cleaning up4.JPG


At the moment my plan is to try to weld in repairs on the aluminium bits that are damaged as to replace the whole runner / stringer will be complicated as it was spot welded onto the floor panel

There was so much English muck on the underside it actually made me feel home sick!

1965 series 2a station wagon rear tub cleaning up5.JPG


The steel reinforcing stay is cleaning up nicely.

(Need a bigger sand blasting cabinet - angle grinder and wire brush needs help!)

1965 series 2a station wagon rear tub cleaning up6.JPG
 
I may need to build mine up with a bit of weld!:(View attachment 119340
Just to clarify the "like"

I appreciate the humour not the damage!

YRM do the steel bits =>

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epages/BT4822.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4822/Products/061

And I think others do too. At 35 quid a pop the costs could mount up.

I sure hope that what I read on the internet about welding Brimabright with DC TIG turns out to be true / possible for me to do. If that's a load of old codswallop I'm gonna be up poo creek with out a paddle...

...don't look up the price of a new floor - almost back to new old stock bulkhead prices! (Well not quite - but blinking heck)
 
...
I sure hope that what I read on the internet about welding Brimabright with DC TIG turns out to be true / possible for me to do. If that's a load of old codswallop I'm gonna be up poo creek with out a paddle...

Speaking about not believing things on the internet =>

Well it has been some time but do you remember this?





My mad attempts at electroplating with out electricity?

Well it has been a bit more of a struggle than I hoped but I stuck with it and have finally gotten some promising results.

View attachment 110267 View attachment 110268

Even with my dodgy point and shoot camera it is (now finally) clear to see that the steel parts are finally getting a coating of brass (or is it copper?)

Another day and I reckon I can get the dynamo reassembled - yeee haaar

I have to hold up my hands and say it just hasn't worked: The attempts at electroplating with out electrickery really haven't worked. It starts off kind of OK and looks promising but eventually the vinegar and iodine solution just turns the parts black and the process stops. I've tried putting it in new solution after a while and it still doesn't get any better.

Oh well.

Shame - it would have been fun.

The dynamo parts remain uncoated and are now starting to rust again

1965 series 2a station wagon electroplating cockup.JPG


To stop the cocking about I had a quick look on ebay and found these bits for a really good price =>

1965 series 2a station wagon dynamo parts1.JPG


Note how the parts that I now don't need to electroplate are indeed plated with copper - nice to know I was barking up the right tree at least

1965 series 2a station wagon dynamo parts2.JPG


Despite the best efforts of DHL to try and be as difficult as possible (DHL hell I call it) they managed to get here on the third attempt. So perhaps tomorrow that sodding dynamo will get rebuilt.

####

Also in the news today - daft looking parcel turned up for me too. The normal postman already thinks I'm a nutter for having so much stuff delivered - his suspicions I feel have been confirmed.

1965 series 2a station wagon daft looking parcel.JPG
 
Ha ha! That parcel is brilliant!
Often think my neighbours are going to do themselves an injury with all the rubber necking when one of my frequent odd shaped parcels arrive.
 
Ha ha! That parcel is brilliant!
Often think my neighbours are going to do themselves an injury with all the rubber necking when one of my frequent odd shaped parcels arrive.
Glad you enjoyed it and good to hear I'm not the only one with odd shaped bits and neighbours with Inspector Gadget necks.
 
I've been busy with other stuff but I'm not ready to post up the pictures just yet as I need to check it is kind of correct before I do...

Something else turned up in the post today - new deeper reach spot welder arms and this =>

1965 series 2a station wagon 1966 owners manual1.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon 1966 owners manual2.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon 1966 owners manual3.JPG


This dates from 1966 so it might be kind of correct for my 1965 - but knowing my luck - much like the Shelley jack I bet it is just a little bit on the new side. Still, nice bit of midnight ebay shopping that!

(Bloody dangerous - that ebay - don't do it!)
 
WOW red letter day today or what - ONE YEAR - yep - ONE YEAR since I started this thread!

Oh how time flies!

Oh what fun I've had!

Oh it is so surprising the Land Rover is STILL in bits!

(Too many exclamation marks I know - makes me sound like one of those retarded Dutch service centre a-holes who reply to with emails with=>

"Thank you for your email!"

"DHL only employs cheap labour who can not read!"

"DHL hopes that you will receive your parcel in the very near future!" )

#####

Anyway - looking back at the last year I guess progress has suffered at a result of fun.

Fun like my stubborn refusal to remove that effing engine from the engine stand again until it is ready to be fitted to the chassis...

...I'm still messing about with the camshaft timing - I get the impression I'm probably being too precise about it.


See what you think.


Finding TDC has been fun. The "normal" way of doing this (when you haven't got a marked flywheel fitted or any other markings on the front of the engine) is to use a degree wheel and then measure the height of the piston one side of TDC at a known height - note degree wheel position - and then set the piston height on the other side of TDC at the same height and note the degree wheel position.

1965 series 2a station wagon finding TDC.JPG


There's then a fair amount of messing about adjusting the degree wheel so that ZERO on the scale actually is TDC: Tightening and loosening the nut on the end of the crankshaft and resetting the degree wheel...

1965 series 2a station wagon measuring piston height.JPG


Once that is sorted out you do a similar thing with the camshaft - rotating it one way and then the other at known heights so you can find the middle point / highest point on the cam lobe.

1965 series 2a station wagon setting camshaft position1.JPG


You can just about see the pencil marks on the camshaft timing cog in this picture =>

1965 series 2a station wagon setting camshaft position2.JPG


Three marks at the top of the cog - one one side - t'other t'other side and the guessed top mark carefully judged with a Mk1 eye ball.

######

The plan was then to rotate the crank to 109 degrees before TDC - setting the compression stroke - which is the "EP" exhaust peak position which is where the highest point on the camshaft should be.

Simple - eh?

#####

Unfortunately in the real world (much like DHL actually performing its primary task - delivering parcels) life isn't that easy or straight forward.

I know this won't be popular but this isn't a Mercedes engine!

Two problems have been noted:

1) "Keeping the chain tight on the driven side" as per the instructions in the Green Book probably isn't sufficient - I think it is best to fit the timing chain tensioner and spin the crank a few times to make sure the marks on the timing chain wheel and the flywheel / degree wheel match

2) This is an old Land Rover and we have to deal with "bigger clearance" than I would normally have to consider.

Here's an explanation of how even with a degree wheel and a DTI things can go a bit wrong - if you are not careful your carefully made marks will wander (!)

Clearance is needed in all moving parts - too little clearance and things won't turn - they just stick and perhaps friction weld themselves together - so clearance is necessary but you do have to keep an eye on its effects.

(I hope the next pictures show things clearly - I gave up trying to get the trim function in LibreCAD to work properly and I'm not firing up Windows to try and use my 1996 version of Autosketch)

I've gone a bit old school and resorted to photographing cut out bits of paper.

Turning the crank clockwise =>

1965 series 2a station wagon clearance explanation2.JPG


And you can see the little end and big end journals "roll around" within the clearance

Turning the crank the other way (anti-clockwise) you get the little end and big end journal / wrist pin to "roll around" within the clearance the other way =>

1965 series 2a station wagon clearance explanation4.JPG


I've shown in red where the (exaggerated) gaps are.

I hope it is clear that you can see that the direction of the crank being turned makes a kind of "sloppiness" in the height of the piston at TDC. You not only get small changes at the end of the piston stroke (the piston has to stop and go back the other way!) but you also get a vague measurement because of the clearance and the rolling about of the wrist pin and the crank journal within the clearance of the little and big bearings.

Note - on this 3MB Land Rover engine with new parts - the clearance is such that I have been able to detect differences in piston height position even when turning the crank in one direction - limiting the rolling around effect of a change in direction.

####

I've been busy - doing an 'O' Level physics-like experiment that I never had the chance to do at school!

After setting the camshaft position in accordance with the procedure in the Green Book (well slightly modified as described above) I've then been measuring piston height and cam lobe rise as a function of crank position (degrees)

For the first attempt I came up with this =>

1965 series 2a station wagon camlobe and piston measurements1.JPG


Little bit difficult to see again - sorry - but the big "sine wave" is piston position and the little bump underneath is cam lobe height. Even after messing about with the degree wheel for quite some time rotating the crank one way and then back the other, I found that it was about 3 degrees out. My first attempt at positioning the camshaft was 10 degrees out! Not good.

It isn't like I'm not being careful.

Second attempt at camshaft positioning =>

1965 series 2a station wagon camlobe and piston position measurements2.png


From the measurements I can see that I'm still 3 degrees out.

#####

I'm now quite interested to see how this positioning compares with the flywheel markings - so I might be fitting that flywheel after all to see!
 
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Guess what?

"We're busy doing nothing
working the whole day through..."



Off on a tangent again =>

Bigger and better sand blasting cabinet being made out of scraps of wood I've been en gone en 'ad - they is mine - and now I'll cut 'em up 'ow I likes...

New big sand blasting cabinet being built.JPG


I've got a feeling I've made it a bit on the big side!

(I don't want to have to then build myself a gucci turntable to put in this beast - so I'm altering the design slightly so I can almost just reach the far wall with a jet of sand...)

In the news today I managed to get some 5251 aluminium delivered from England! Wow - not an easy task but https://www.materials4me.co.uk/ were kind enough to package up some sheets of 5251 for me and then let me get DPD (via parcel2go) to come and pick it up.

1965 series 2a station wagon 5251 aluminium sheets1.JPG


1965 series 2a station wagon 5251 aluminium sheets2.JPG


So once step closer to finding out if I can DC TIG weld 5251 - and one step closer to finding out if I can DC TIG weld 5251 to 1960s Birmabright.

(Wish me luck)
 
Love this thread, this is going to be an awesome Rover when finished, keep up the good work
Thanks chap - too many diversions at the moment - but will soon be getting back to more Land Rover stuff in a bit (hopefully)

Looking forward to seeing the completed DIY blasting cabinet - or will it be called "big bertha"? :)

Oh - I didn't think many were interested in that. Perhaps you're a cast of one (?)...

New big sand blasting cabinet being built2.JPG


I got fed up with tripping over the thing and stuck it in one of the corners of the workspace. Looks like a good place for it actually.

So far the hopper part is made

New big sand blasting cabinet being built3.JPG


The edges are sealed with a mastic + glue in one sealant.

I've found some old lights for inside.

I've bought a new bathroom fan which is one of those in-line versions. I just need to find some cheap air filters and bite the bullet for some sort of glazing system.

(Oh yeah if I have to name it I'd say it should be called "two" - as in too big - and it being the second one)
 

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