Stretch
Well-Known Member
The way to do the job "properly" is to buy all of the Land Rover special tools - you then have a chance of making a calculation...
...thing is that this procedure of setting up the pinion isn't idiot proof - the system might behave slightly differently when it is tightened in place with the correct bearing pre-loads etc. So even with the special tools you might find (if you actually did the engineers blue contact patch check) that the pinion shim needs to be different.
#####
So essentially - I'm guessing. I've measured the existing shim. I've found the part numbers in the spares catalogue - I can see that they are cheaper on Craddocks (for once) than Paddocks - I will order - fit - try again.
Not very scientific
Rather tedious
But hopefully with a bit of effort it should give a good result.
I'm going to order two sizes bigger than the size I have and hope that one of them will be better than what I've got.
This is the first time I've played about with Land Rover differentials so I don't have any experience of the effect "one shim size up" makes - big learning curve for me. But as the coast side contact patch is pretty much in the good place I'm guessing the pinion doesn't have to move too too far.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
The point is that by visually inspecting the contact patch you end up with a bit of guess work (if you want to adjust the position of the contact patch). I could measure it - but I bet I get the same thickness that I've just taken out - and I can see that that's close but not close enough.
Let me see if I can reproduce the measurement in the way you describe. I might then be able to show you that visually checking the contact patch is a refinement adjustment.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
The batteries on my digital vernier caliper have just died (Sunday in the sticks in Holland means I have to wait to get some more!) - bit of a delay as I can't find the manual backup...
...I will get the measurements (for comparison with visual inspection techniques) done later on in the week.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Flipping back to the dynamo:
I went and re-did the self amalgamating tape =>
In the picture above the left hand side was how I had done it (too loose) before and the right shows the all new tighter wrapping
Fitting was fine
Need a good grip on those screws
And although it looks a bit uneven in this picture the position of the windings is (just) enough for the moving parts not to touch
But then - effing disaster!!!!
That sodding woodruff key has turned round - grinned - stuck its tounge out - flipped me the middle finger - and refused to budge.
I need to get this part to a machine shop to have the slot re-cut properly. This is going to be seriously expensive in Holland (at least 60 euros) so I'm going to try and see if I can find someone with a lathe via the bush telegraph...
...this will take F O R E V E R...
...just as well I bought that second hand back up eh?
So whizz whirrr =>
It came apart so nicely and easily (especially compared with the troubles I had with the other one)
Turns out to be of the optional special equipment version that has the sealed bearing
This is really fortunate as the bearing is good! I don't need to change it! I don't need to try and remove the woodruff key (YES!) - which just so happens to be as stuck in the shaft as the other one.
So OK more work needs to be done - but hey at least it won't cost me much more (only paint) than I've already spent
#####
Those pesky woodruff keys seem to be a serious stumbling block for rebuilding these dynamos
I went and re-did the self amalgamating tape =>
In the picture above the left hand side was how I had done it (too loose) before and the right shows the all new tighter wrapping
Fitting was fine
Need a good grip on those screws
And although it looks a bit uneven in this picture the position of the windings is (just) enough for the moving parts not to touch
But then - effing disaster!!!!
That sodding woodruff key has turned round - grinned - stuck its tounge out - flipped me the middle finger - and refused to budge.
I need to get this part to a machine shop to have the slot re-cut properly. This is going to be seriously expensive in Holland (at least 60 euros) so I'm going to try and see if I can find someone with a lathe via the bush telegraph...
...this will take F O R E V E R...
...just as well I bought that second hand back up eh?
So whizz whirrr =>
It came apart so nicely and easily (especially compared with the troubles I had with the other one)
Turns out to be of the optional special equipment version that has the sealed bearing
This is really fortunate as the bearing is good! I don't need to change it! I don't need to try and remove the woodruff key (YES!) - which just so happens to be as stuck in the shaft as the other one.
So OK more work needs to be done - but hey at least it won't cost me much more (only paint) than I've already spent
#####
Those pesky woodruff keys seem to be a serious stumbling block for rebuilding these dynamos
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Started on the one remaining original side step.
I've made some pictures to remind me how it is meant to look as I plan to modify the "new original" and the two Bearmach side steps I've now got me mits on.
Note the Granddad flat head bolts and washers for the back row pad fixing and rivets for the rest
The hinge pin is seriously stuck so it is soaking in penetrating oil for a bit before I lose me rag and cut it off
These real original steps have two supporting strengthening parts under the step as shown in a previous post
I've made some pictures to remind me how it is meant to look as I plan to modify the "new original" and the two Bearmach side steps I've now got me mits on.
Note the Granddad flat head bolts and washers for the back row pad fixing and rivets for the rest
The hinge pin is seriously stuck so it is soaking in penetrating oil for a bit before I lose me rag and cut it off
These real original steps have two supporting strengthening parts under the step as shown in a previous post
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Operation save me grapes went into phase two
Cheapo green house turned up from Germany in a tattered box and no effing instructions (as you'd expect)
Total crap and not worth the money - but should appease the land lady
I can see myself tripping my way in and out of the sodding thing for the next few months, then it can go back in the tattered box for good!
Cheapo green house turned up from Germany in a tattered box and no effing instructions (as you'd expect)
Total crap and not worth the money - but should appease the land lady
I can see myself tripping my way in and out of the sodding thing for the next few months, then it can go back in the tattered box for good!
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Dynamo again.
Despite the second hand replacement coming to bits more easily than the one that came with the vehicle the commutator end cap has some pretty rusty parts on it.
The brushes were rusted solid so the electrical connecting hardware had to be removed =>
I'm having trouble finding replacement parts (even the other dynamo I have has the same trouble - what a shock!) so I only have two more people to ask - failing that - I have a cunning plan...
...to be continued.
Despite the second hand replacement coming to bits more easily than the one that came with the vehicle the commutator end cap has some pretty rusty parts on it.
The brushes were rusted solid so the electrical connecting hardware had to be removed =>
I'm having trouble finding replacement parts (even the other dynamo I have has the same trouble - what a shock!) so I only have two more people to ask - failing that - I have a cunning plan...
...to be continued.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
On a lighter note got a box from Turner Engineering today
(flipping DHL parcel rates are not to be believed - sodding couriers - grumble grumble)
Still this week I should finally be able to peddle off with the engine block to the rebuilders to get a re-bore and perhaps the hot spots might find their way into the head...
...though I might wait for the craddocks order for the new exhaust valves. Sill the head is nearly ready so that's good.
Turners offer an uprated rear crankshaft seal that I'm going to try - so that'll be exciting. Seems rather cher for what it is - but if it does a good job I guess I'll be happy.
(flipping DHL parcel rates are not to be believed - sodding couriers - grumble grumble)
Still this week I should finally be able to peddle off with the engine block to the rebuilders to get a re-bore and perhaps the hot spots might find their way into the head...
...though I might wait for the craddocks order for the new exhaust valves. Sill the head is nearly ready so that's good.
Turners offer an uprated rear crankshaft seal that I'm going to try - so that'll be exciting. Seems rather cher for what it is - but if it does a good job I guess I'll be happy.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Luck seems to be running out for finding parts for the dynamo again
Strike #1
Went to see a company that repairs alternators and starter motors only to find "we don't do that any more - haven't done that for 5 years - guy who did it left - you should know that!"
Strike #2
Chap who sells lots of wired and wonderful stuff reckons the solid rivets with the hollow ends used to fix the electrical hardware to the end cap of the dynamo are very difficult to obtain. Best to drill out a bit of your own solid rivet (This is only done to help protect the plastic components you are clamping) - so I'll measure and order some with him. As for getting bent bits of metal for electrical connectors and such it looks like it would be DIY...
#########
So I've started "cunning plan"
Not quite the same as the original solution but it might work.
Step 1
Wire brush off all the rust from the little contacts - pain in the arse - used pliers to hold parts and save fingers (!)
Step 2
Believe seemingly daft / strange idea on model building forum about using old skool (bitch'n') electroplating techniques
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=2834
Assemble products needed
1X old margarine tub
1X bottle of iodine (apparently - well - according to the thread above this is hard to get hold of so he went through a process of heating vinegar and dissolving iodine impregnated salt because junkies do something with iodine - 'uck knows what - but hey in Holland I had no trouble getting hold of the stuff so read what you will into that)
1X bottle of vinegar (I'm using basic "cleaning" vinegar)
Some copper (this might turn out to be a problem because whilst I bought some copper pipe saddles and paid a price much more than I expected to pay for "copper" it doesn't necessarily mean I have bought copper - this could be some copperique {fake copper introduced by a baby boomer capitalist society fixated on extorting as much money out of people as possible})
Step 3
Whack it all in the margarine tub and give it a go
#########
If I end up with copper(ique) coated electrical terminals then I'll be a happy chap - I can then make the connections and spray the parts that won't be touching anything with a varnish to help them along too. (If I just remove the rust the parts will corrode really quickly and repairing the dynamo will be a waste of effort)
According to the thread on the model building forum I should see an effect by tomorrow morning. My slapdash whack in a bit of this and that approach might not be quite right so it could be a mega failure.
{Tune in for the next exciting installment}
EDIT: I forgot to mention that this mixture apparently gives off hydrogen gas - so to make sure I don't blow myself up it has been banished to the little house on the prairie green house spray cabin at the end of the garden. (Yep the grapes can get it if it goes bang)
Strike #1
Went to see a company that repairs alternators and starter motors only to find "we don't do that any more - haven't done that for 5 years - guy who did it left - you should know that!"
Strike #2
Chap who sells lots of wired and wonderful stuff reckons the solid rivets with the hollow ends used to fix the electrical hardware to the end cap of the dynamo are very difficult to obtain. Best to drill out a bit of your own solid rivet (This is only done to help protect the plastic components you are clamping) - so I'll measure and order some with him. As for getting bent bits of metal for electrical connectors and such it looks like it would be DIY...
#########
So I've started "cunning plan"
Not quite the same as the original solution but it might work.
Step 1
Wire brush off all the rust from the little contacts - pain in the arse - used pliers to hold parts and save fingers (!)
Step 2
Believe seemingly daft / strange idea on model building forum about using old skool (bitch'n') electroplating techniques
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=2834
Assemble products needed
1X old margarine tub
1X bottle of iodine (apparently - well - according to the thread above this is hard to get hold of so he went through a process of heating vinegar and dissolving iodine impregnated salt because junkies do something with iodine - 'uck knows what - but hey in Holland I had no trouble getting hold of the stuff so read what you will into that)
1X bottle of vinegar (I'm using basic "cleaning" vinegar)
Some copper (this might turn out to be a problem because whilst I bought some copper pipe saddles and paid a price much more than I expected to pay for "copper" it doesn't necessarily mean I have bought copper - this could be some copperique {fake copper introduced by a baby boomer capitalist society fixated on extorting as much money out of people as possible})
Step 3
Whack it all in the margarine tub and give it a go
#########
If I end up with copper(ique) coated electrical terminals then I'll be a happy chap - I can then make the connections and spray the parts that won't be touching anything with a varnish to help them along too. (If I just remove the rust the parts will corrode really quickly and repairing the dynamo will be a waste of effort)
According to the thread on the model building forum I should see an effect by tomorrow morning. My slapdash whack in a bit of this and that approach might not be quite right so it could be a mega failure.
{Tune in for the next exciting installment}
EDIT: I forgot to mention that this mixture apparently gives off hydrogen gas - so to make sure I don't blow myself up it has been banished to the little house on the prairie green house spray cabin at the end of the garden. (Yep the grapes can get it if it goes bang)
Last edited:
Stretch
Well-Known Member
I feel obliged to point out that this mixture apparently creates hydrogen gas so you shouldn't leave it cooking on your bedside table or anything daft like that.
Take sensible precautions if you are trying this at home!
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Teddy has left the cot.
The side step pin has just "'ad it"
Totally stuck in the bracket - that ain't coming out without a lot of damage to the bracket.
####
I must add I'm well happy with my little Bosch 10.8V angle grinder - well worth the money (see it isn't always doom and gloom complaining about the cost of this and that!)
The smaller cutting discs are of a really handy size (75mm) to help you get into corners - saves a lot of damage caused by the usual 115mm and 125mm cutting discs
The side step pin has just "'ad it"
Totally stuck in the bracket - that ain't coming out without a lot of damage to the bracket.
####
I must add I'm well happy with my little Bosch 10.8V angle grinder - well worth the money (see it isn't always doom and gloom complaining about the cost of this and that!)
The smaller cutting discs are of a really handy size (75mm) to help you get into corners - saves a lot of damage caused by the usual 115mm and 125mm cutting discs
Stretch
Well-Known Member
The results are in!
Dah dah dah dah dah DAAAAAH! (Fanfare)
...
Didn't work.
Observations:-
1) The steel has gotten grottier as it does when it is being "de-rusted" in vinegar (I don't believe in the de-rusting abilities of vinegar - same as molasses it only blackens the oxidisation)
2) I thought the copper(ique) stuff might have a coating of some sort or other on it to make it look shiny and new in the packet - not sure if that's the case as one of these parts actually turned black =>
So I reckon summit's up!
3) The bit of copper(ique) that turned black was nearest to a steel bit
4) Whilst it was evident that summit was 'appening at the start of the experiment as bubbles formed on the surface of the steel parts (not copper(ique)) it seemed dead this morning.
#########
I reckon the parts I've put in there are too dirty - I need to clean them a bit better and get rid of all of the rust and muck that's on them (you can see muck has fallen off the parts and has settled in the bottom of the margarine tub).
I also reckon that this process has something to do with the electrickery change thingumy bob difference in dissimilar metals. I think I need to make the steel parts more attractive to the copper(ique) by adding in more steel mass. The chap on that model building forum had a big lump of steel in a bath of stuff with lots of small bits of copper.
(Bear with me I never got to do Chemistry at school - I was always sick for those lessons - don't know why)
I've also remembered I've got an old copper head gasket from my 2.25 litre diesel engine to cut up and play about with.
So experiment halted for a bit - but as always - to be continued...
##########
Footnote:
Yes yes yes I should just send these parts off to an electroplater or buy a DIY electroplating kit from Frosts or something like that - but where's the fun in that? I'd much rather be ****ing about with stuff in margarine tubs at the moment - breaks up the monotony of de-rusting - treating - painting crappy old Land Rover parts!
Stretch
Well-Known Member
And so it goes on (in the background) the continual running out of rust killer and paint.
This reminds me to crack on with the spreadsheet to keep an eye on the costs so far. When I'm done (it'll be ready for the summer) I'll post up the costs if any one is interested. Though I think it is fair to say I'm probably adding quite a lot of weight to the vehicle in the form of paint!
This reminds me to crack on with the spreadsheet to keep an eye on the costs so far. When I'm done (it'll be ready for the summer) I'll post up the costs if any one is interested. Though I think it is fair to say I'm probably adding quite a lot of weight to the vehicle in the form of paint!
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Oh I don't think it will be all that bad - no where near the money I've spent on other vehicles (!)
We'll see. Tell you what I'll do the spread sheet and if I feel sick I won't post it up - good compromise?
greyhair
Well-Known Member
Sounds like as good idea
