And so it goes on...

...got bored and dug the replacement diesel exhaust manifold out of the Rustyco bath and had a go with the angle grinder and wire brush attachment again

Went better than I thought it would





Sprayed it in high temp black



Other bits also coming along nicely =>

I did something I don't normally do last night - I looked through this thread from the start and came away with the impression that this purchase of mine looks absolutely bloody dreadful

!

What was I thinking buying that?

Well strange looking back at it now because all I could see was potential (which when you think about it is just as well)

So anyway to make things look worse - or perhaps a bit better (though probably not) I thought I'd post up some pictures of the workspace I've got which I managed to tidy up a bit this morning






It is still full of rusty knackered parts!

Right - flipping back to the subject of differentials.

It is all very well shouting from the tree tops "look at the size of my gonads - I have the balls to dismantle differentials" if you don't have a plan to adjust it properly once you've serviced the item.

The green book is full of special tools for calculating the thickness of the shim that sits behind the inner pinion bearing cup.

This process is to try and get the pinion meshing nicely in the crown wheel so (hopefully) you don't get any whine from the helical gears. The gearing needs to have a certain amount of backlash so the cogs aren't grinding into each other too much or too loosely. This is quite easy to set but it isn't the full story. Finer adjustments can be made (to get the backlash within limits) but improve the meshing of the pinion and crown wheel...

...this isn't actually covered (or mentioned) in the Green book but using engineers blue and assessing the contact pattern is the better way to go once you've got the pinion shim thickness correct.

#######

I'm using a simple approach to calculating pinion shim thickness - I'm using what was there before and seeing how I go

#######

In order to get a reliable contact patch between the crown wheel and the pinion gear the system needs to be "loaded". A braking friction needs to be applied to the differential output(s) to make sure the crown and pinion mesh cleanly when they are turned.

It turns out the Land Rover differentials are of a nice open design that makes it possible to do this in quite a controlled way. A way that doesn't include jamming something between the crown wheel and the casing!

Please excuse the look of this Jerry built wooden crap but I'm all about functionality and then disposability - I don't want my precious workshop space full up with yet another rig I built to do such a such or so and so. So this is a quick and dirty solution that can be burnt in the winter to keep me warm. (Quick and dirty solutions are abundant - just look at Microsoft - DOS used to be called QDOS {quick and dirty operating system} and just look at how long that crap has been around)

The rig consists of the OSB cradle to support the differential - and two towers of assorted cheapo crap wooden cut offs to help grip two knackered front half shafts. As you can see wood working clamps are being utilised to apply a clamping force. If I really really have to I will reluctantly go and find some threaded bar some nuts and some washers to make the clamping force tighter...







Once I've found my DTI and magnetic base I can check the backlash and then it is engineers blue time and hopefully a few pictures of contact patch patterns for you all!

(Better than train spotting eh?)

Don't worry. You are doing great work and your end results are going to be outstanding. Also you can take some consolation that the Land Rover I bought was a far bigger bag of crap than the one you bought. Lots of people told me that it's not what you bought that matters it's what you can make out of it. Nil desperandum.

LincolnSteve said:

Don't worry. You are doing great work and your end results are going to be outstanding. Also you can take some consolation that the Land Rover I bought was a far bigger bag of crap than the one you bought. Lots of people told me that it's not what you bought that matters it's what you can make out of it. Nil desperandum.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the continued encouragement Steve. I reckon, however, in the mine is worse than yours stakes I've got you beat - just wait until you see the bulkhead repairs I need to do, and then the chassis...

...still I bought it because it was a piece of crap. My plan was to find a suitable home for my rebuilt Mercedes OM617 but as it turns out even though the vehicle is a piece of crap it is mostly original crap and so the plan has changed. I'm not going to modify this one. I'll probably do it up and sell it...

(Differential still - but this is about to get delayed for a bit)

Measuring the backlash of the crown wheel and the pinion is trivial once you've found the DIT and magnetic base (for me finding stuff is often the bigger problem)



Reading the green book - I've now got to figure out a way of adjusting the serrated axial nuts (I should have seen that coming! And I kind of did but thought I'd just give it a go and see how far I'd get)...

...book says to use special tool 530105

Problem is this one doesn't seem to exist anywhere. There's nothing especially interesting about it so I should be able to make one if necessary - but as there's no rush (It'll all be done for the summer) I thought I'd start another thread asking people what they've done. (I'm guessing it is hammer and punch time but I really don't want to do that)

New thread asking about special tool 530105 =>

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...l-crown-wheel-pinion-backlash-setting.304429/

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Re: Differential serrated end cap adjustment spanner problem =>

So far angle grinder keys, C spanners and adjustment of the wheel nut box spanner have been suggested

The Mad Hat Man said:

Just found this.........



I have never seen one of these tools and never been able to find one to buy so, like most people, I have been forced to make one. You will need some masking tape, a hub box spanner (the one you use for removing hub bearings) and an angle grinder. Spray paint can and metal file will be useful for smartening it all up.


Bearing Adjustment Nut Spanner Rover Differential
Making Your Own Spanner-differential
To make my own Bearing Adjusting Nut Tool I have modified my hub box spanner to be duel use. One end is still a normal hub box spanner used for replacing wheel bearings but the other has been modified to fit the bearing adjustment nut.


Bearing Adjustment Nut Spanner Rover Differential
First, we put some masking tape around the round end of the hub box spanner so we can make clear pencil markings and put this end up against the bearing adjustment nut on one side of the differential (you may choose to remove it if you can to make this easier). Mark out three equally spaced gaps from the bearing adjustment nut and shade out the remaining space for cutting and removal.


Bearing Adjustment Nut Spanner Rover Differential
Cut using and angle grinder (or Dremel tool if you have lots of time) to leave behind only the three pegs you marked. Shape the pegs to make them more pointy to get a better fit. Test the tool and shave any excess material.

Smooth with a metal file and sandpaper to get a smooth finish and paint with a rattle can for a professional look. It will then be ready for reducing the backlash in your differential.


Bearing Adjustment Nut Spanner Rover Differential
The hole through the hub box spanner can be used along with a sliding T Bar to torque to the correct values.

Click to expand...

Read from the start, what a fantastic project, great engineering improvisation!

Going to stick with this to the finish

Mekkit said:

Read from the start, what a fantastic project, great engineering improvisation!

Going to stick with this to the finish

Click to expand...

Thanks mate - I'll try and keep it as interesting as de-rusting junk can be!

boguing said:

Click to expand...

Thanks - another option. Depending on how tight it is necessary to screw these serrated caps I might make a three legged version (if the angle grinder key doesn't do it)

Twelve points would be better.

boguing said:

Twelve points would be better.

Click to expand...

May be

Progress is being delay

The Land Rover has a guest =>



I can just about get round the Mercedes to get the brakes bled...

Right - clutch master cylinder going back together

(I wanted to check it out as it is a new part - lots of complaints on the interweb about muck in new parts that make them die before their time)





As you can see - nothing to it.

I'm using ATE assembly paste for the moving part

Master brake cylinder got the same treatment











Clip pushed into place with screw driver



Both pedal box master cylinders reassembled



ATE assembly paste has the same paint stripping abilities as brake fluid so I have to whizz over them one more time with the paint

I'm using high temp black on the brake master cylinder (can't remember why) and a clear version of the same for the clutch master cylinder

Next delay.

Somethings growing in my spray booth =>



Daft place to grow grapes if you ask me (still that's wimmin for ya)



'ave bought Chinese made tent-like green house from Germany (yes well don't ask) that will protect grapes from Eastwoods extreme chassis black...

Got some work on the replacement head done today

Cleaning =>







Removed hot spots



Lots of de-coking



Valve lapping



Found the exhaust valves to be a bit too pitted (when I looked a bit closer). Weirdly the valve seats in the head don't look too bad



Seeing as replacements are cheap I'm going to replace with new...

...masking =>





First coat of engine paint looks like it is sticking (!)

Question about valve springs =>

This replacement head has a double coil valve springs

I'm happy to keep them as I assume they will be better for dealing with resonant vibrations (that's why they are oppositionally coiled) but they don't look like they are series 2 standard kit. Are they series 3 bits?



EDIT: question about springs here => https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/double-valve-springs.304586/

Ain't summer...



...Brilliant!

Two coats of paint dried - sorted =>

re-rewind (the crowd say Bo selecta) back to the differential adjustment.

Today I managed the impossible - I actually opened the lid off the tin of engineers blue without flinging it all over the place! I'm getting good at this...

...painted some engineers blue on the cogs and made some pictures to show how it shouldn't look.

This is running the engineers blue through the contact between the crown wheel and the pinion without the correct axial bearing pre-load and no load on the output shafts





You can see that there has been contact but it isn't very clear. If you try this at home and the same happens then there's summit up...

...applying the pre-load to the axial bearings and applying a load to the output shafts gives a much clearer contact patch =>





Much clearer definition.

So as I'm sure you can all see the driven side of the crown wheel (convex) is slightly down => towards the toe

The coasting side of the crown wheel (concave) is harder to assess but it is a bit more up than it is down (towards the heel)

This means the pinion gear needs to come towards the crown wheel a tad. This means thicker pinion shim. So...

...bam! Kazam!...



Differential in bits again (!)

Measure pinion shim



Order thicker one

(to be continued)