wammers said:
I hate to think what a V8 petrol would be doing on my driving cycle. A total waste of space probably. I had the choice of several slightly newer V8s for the same price as the diesel, but when you know what's what it has to be a diesel every time. V8 the mans choice. Diesel the intelligent mans choice. :p:p:p
Click to expand...
Wot he said plus diesels don't slip liners:p:p:p
 
Hope think it was 3 and eleven a gallon when I started remember those coins as well and a pint was only 9d well 1 and 3 in the posh hotel
 
Datatek said:
I could fill up and get change from ten bob when I started:)
Click to expand...

Said it before 3/9 for a gallon of Esso Golden 5 star. Go to Blackpool. Fun House admission 2/6. Good night had by all buggering about a tickling a few girlies. Caunce St chippy on way home. Chips 6d, fish 10d, bottle of Coke 9d. Grand total for a night out 8/4 and 1/8 change for granny who i borrowed the ten bob off in the first place. It is now around 55p or the equivalent of 11/- for a Mars bar. They were 4d or 1.66p each before decimalisation. Times do change.
 
Don't want to hijack that other thread with my MPG questions. Today I checked it on a reasonably nice run on an A road at a steadyish 50mph and got 17.6mpg (on the computer). Here's what I've done so far:

1. Autologic diagnostics - passed with no issues (I assume that would pick up things like failed temp sender making it run cold?)

2. VCU check at Landrover specialists - passed.

3. Engine oil and all filters changed

4. EGR and intercooler hoses removed and cleaned (not intercooler itself as that looks like a big job)

5. Tested intank pump by running down to empty and listening whilst turning the ignition on from cold - you can hear it whine away.

I've not checked for binding brakes. Not sure how to. On a non-4x4 I'd jack up each wheel and see how freely they spin, but with 4x4 and a VCU I'm not sure how to check.

Anything else (DIY) that I can check? I'm enjoying myself, but I'd like to make it a little more economical.

FWIW, the temp gauge on the dash never makes it to half way. It only ever gets to about a third of the way. Is that normal or could it be the stat? Although I wouldn't have thought it would make a massive difference in MPG...

tnx

Nik
 
NikTheGeek said:
Don't want to hijack that other thread with my MPG questions. Today I checked it on a reasonably nice run on an A road at a steadyish 50mph and got 17.6mpg (on the computer). Here's what I've done so far:

1. Autologic diagnostics - passed with no issues (I assume that would pick up things like failed temp sender making it run cold?)

2. VCU check at Landrover specialists - passed.

3. Engine oil and all filters changed

4. EGR and intercooler hoses removed and cleaned (not intercooler itself as that looks like a big job)

5. Tested intank pump by running down to empty and listening whilst turning the ignition on from cold - you can hear it whine away.

I've not checked for binding brakes. Not sure how to. On a non-4x4 I'd jack up each wheel and see how freely they spin, but with 4x4 and a VCU I'm not sure how to check.

Anything else (DIY) that I can check? I'm enjoying myself, but I'd like to make it a little more economical.

FWIW, the temp gauge on the dash never makes it to half way. It only ever gets to about a third of the way. Is that normal or could it be the stat? Although I wouldn't have thought it would make a massive difference in MPG...

tnx

Nik
Click to expand...
yes no stat in car would make it run cold = higher mpg don't rely on onboard computer as suggested before fill it up and work it out!
 
NikTheGeek said:
Don't want to hijack that other thread with my MPG questions. Today I checked it on a reasonably nice run on an A road at a steadyish 50mph and got 17.6mpg (on the computer). Here's what I've done so far:

1. Autologic diagnostics - passed with no issues (I assume that would pick up things like failed temp sender making it run cold?)

2. VCU check at Landrover specialists - passed.

3. Engine oil and all filters changed

4. EGR and intercooler hoses removed and cleaned (not intercooler itself as that looks like a big job)

5. Tested intank pump by running down to empty and listening whilst turning the ignition on from cold - you can hear it whine away.

I've not checked for binding brakes. Not sure how to. On a non-4x4 I'd jack up each wheel and see how freely they spin, but with 4x4 and a VCU I'm not sure how to check.

Anything else (DIY) that I can check? I'm enjoying myself, but I'd like to make it a little more economical.

FWIW, the temp gauge on the dash never makes it to half way. It only ever gets to about a third of the way. Is that normal or could it be the stat? Although I wouldn't have thought it would make a massive difference in MPG...

tnx

Nik
Click to expand...

The temperature should read just to the left of 12 oclock. If it's running cold it will use more fuel. Sounds like the stat is not working.
To check for binding brakes just jack both wheels on the same axle.
Intercooler is simple to remove after you remove the slam plate.
The fact that the pump whines does not mean it pumps fuel.
 
As datatek says should sit half way been know to be taken out due to overheating problems or am I just being a Pessimist again.
 
My DSE sat in the black between blue and white zone - on hills and working hard, would rise to about 11 o'clock...never did get round to checking if it had a stat in place...!!

Even running that cold, I would get just over 25mpg regularly on brim to brim calcs...
 
Saint.V8 said:
My DSE sat in the black between blue and white zone - on hills and working hard, would rise to about 11 o'clock...never did get round to checking if it had a stat in place...!!

Even running that cold, I would get just over 25mpg regularly on brim to brim calcs...
Click to expand...

Maybe that you just had a duff gauge sender and it was actually running at the correct temperature:)
 
Datatek said:
The temperature should read just to the left of 12 oclock. If it's running cold it will use more fuel. Sounds like the stat is not working.
To check for binding brakes just jack both wheels on the same axle.
Intercooler is simple to remove after you remove the slam plate.
The fact that the pump whines does not mean it pumps fuel.
Click to expand...

Rave says remove battery and ECU! After the last time I disconnected the battery I didn't really want to! If I can get at it without, then I'll have a go.

Anyway, true. Just coz the pump makes a noise is no proof that its working. So... which pipe on the fuel filter housing do I need to disconnect to check for fuel spurting out when I turn the ignition on? Surely that would be a 100% foolproof check if I can get at the fuel line between the intank pump and the high pressure pump...

tnx all

Nik

P.S. this is what else I did today... :)
 

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NikTheGeek said:
Don't want to hijack that other thread with my MPG questions. Today I checked it on a reasonably nice run on an A road at a steadyish 50mph and got 17.6mpg (on the computer). Here's what I've done so far:

1. Autologic diagnostics - passed with no issues (I assume that would pick up things like failed temp sender making it run cold?)

2. VCU check at Landrover specialists - passed.

3. Engine oil and all filters changed

4. EGR and intercooler hoses removed and cleaned (not intercooler itself as that looks like a big job)

5. Tested intank pump by running down to empty and listening whilst turning the ignition on from cold - you can hear it whine away.

I've not checked for binding brakes. Not sure how to. On a non-4x4 I'd jack up each wheel and see how freely they spin, but with 4x4 and a VCU I'm not sure how to check.

Anything else (DIY) that I can check? I'm enjoying myself, but I'd like to make it a little more economical.

FWIW, the temp gauge on the dash never makes it to half way. It only ever gets to about a third of the way. Is that normal or could it be the stat? Although I wouldn't have thought it would make a massive difference in MPG...

tnx

Nik
Click to expand...

Prolly get shot down for this but did you reset trip 2 to zero before your test?

G~
 
gencybay said:
Prolly get shot down for this but did you reset trip 2 to zero before your test?

G~
Click to expand...

No, why? Well... I pressed the i button until it was on mpg and then pressed it for a long time until it said "calculating mpg" but I've never, purposely reset trip 2.... Come on, explain... curiosity is killing me... :)
 
NikTheGeek said:
No, why? Well... I pressed the i button until it was on mpg and then pressed it for a long time until it said "calculating mpg" but I've never, purposely reset trip 2.... Come on, explain... curiosity is killing me... :)
Click to expand...

I don't think that it is a 'live' calculation. It is an average since last reset. Your consumption looks about right as an average. Rather better than mine in smokey city.

When I go on holiday (What a nice thought), I reset trip 2 (coz it's exciting to know how far you've gone) and the figure is very different.

Your apparently poor mpg is because it is remembering those fifteen trips to Mrs Miggins 500 yards away to deliver the eggs daily. Wammers explained this in a previous post. If you have a look at your average speed, you'll find that your trip on the A road was at an average of 20 mph!

It looks OK to me.

G~
 
Undo the banjo that is direct on your pump
Turn over and check diesel is comming out Preferably in a container.
 
NikTheGeek said:
Rave says remove battery and ECU! After the last time I disconnected the battery I didn't really want to! If I can get at it without, then I'll have a go.

Anyway, true. Just coz the pump makes a noise is no proof that its working. So... which pipe on the fuel filter housing do I need to disconnect to check for fuel spurting out when I turn the ignition on? Surely that would be a 100% foolproof check if I can get at the fuel line between the intank pump and the high pressure pump...

tnx all

Nik

P.S. this is what else I did today... :)
Click to expand...

To check the pump, just unscrew the fuel filter and put/hold a bowl underneath then turn the ignition on with the engine cold so the glows come on. Wammers posted a measurement of the amount of fuel you should get.
I never removed the battery or ECU to get the intercooler out, pretty sure I didn't even disconnect either as there are no electrics to short out in the way.

Next time you fill up, re-set trip 2 then watch the fuel consumption, good training in light footed driving.
 
defender300td1 said:
Undo the banjo that is direct on your pump
Turn over and check diesel is comming out Preferably in a container.
Click to expand...

That won't work unless the car is 99 on. Fuel pump only runs when. Glow lamps are lit. Or when engine is running on pre 99 models. Or also when engine is being cranked on 99 on models.
 
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