Good morning everyone, I know another brake enquiry, I must have tried everyones post on here regarding trying to get a good brake pedal and I am now fed up. .Can anybody recommend the best available make of brake shoes, and wheel cylinders I have all new brake shoes, cylinders, brake springs, flexi hoses, brake drums master cylinder, everything to do with brakes. ( except the pedal assembly). but cannot get a good pedal it goes nearly to the floor.even with brake shoes adjusted locked on or off. my landy is 1980 swb 10" single cylinder non servo diesel ,used two man bleeding, power bleeding raised front raised back / wedged 3x2over night. The only way I get a good pedal is to clamp off 2 front flexies, pedal is then solid as soon as I release one flexi (either one in any order pedal nearly goes to floor) it must be the front brakes. Drastic action is needed. I have made all adjustments as recommended on this forum all parts are Britparts .Never had problems using these before. biggest problem is car is not road legal yet so cannot give it a run . Thanks Steve
 
Have you tried gravity bleeding ? just open the nipple and wait for bubble free fluid to come out [ keep res topped up ]
Agree problem has to be front slaves.
 
Thanks for the reply tottot tried gravity bleed several times also reverse bleed back up to master cylinder from both front cylinders .tried clamping brake shoes etc etc that's whats doing my head in don't know what else to try apart from another make of parts supplier.thanks Steve
 
Are you able to adjust the front shoes on to drums till they make contact?
Thinking back plates on the wrong side of axle or shoe sets fitted wrong side.
One theory I have heard of but not used is to stamp the hell out of the pedal to bake up large bubbles then re bleed.
Another remove drums adjust shoes right back and clamp shoes witha ratchet strap. this gives minimum location for air in cylinder, then re bleed.
 
I have found the SWB system easy to bleed. [ LWB with double slave's are more troublesome ] There has to be something wrong with the system set up as with Blackburn above. Or the slaves are faulty allowing air in. Check the seals.
 
Are you able to adjust the front shoes on to drums till they make contact?
Thinking back plates on the wrong side of axle or shoe sets fitted wrong side.
One theory I have heard of but not used is to stamp the hell out of the pedal to bake up large bubbles then re bleed.
Another remove drums adjust shoes right back and clamp shoes witha ratchet strap. this gives minimum location for air in cylinder, then re bleed.
Thanks Blackburn,tried stamping on brake pedal.then bleeding again.tried clamps and ratchet straps.shoes do adjust to drums and will lock wheels, adjusting nuts as diagrams on forum/photos e.g adjuster hexigans are at front side of axle/ backplates viewing from front of landy springs set up per forum diagrams /photos thanks Steve
 
Having been round this loop recently believing it to be a bleed problem which it partly was, mostly it was a brake adjuster problem. I would be taking the front drums of and really checking how the cams sit on the pins and which way the cams go (not obvious and not always logical if they've been replaced wrong).
 
ok if you clamp both front hoses now does pedal go solid?
Another one to check where have you got the top pull off spring fitted should be as attached pic.
Are all drums new if so try the back ones on the front to see if any different or refit your old drums if you still have them on front.
 

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ok if you clamp both front hoses now does pedal go solid?
Another one to check where have you got the top pull off spring fitted should be as attached pic.
Are all drums new if so try the back ones on the front to see if any different or refit your old drums if you still have them on front.
Hi Blackburn again, Both flexies clamped, solid pedal.All new springs fitted are the same as your photos, drums have been swapped about ,Old drums scrapped badly scored and rusty thanks Steve
 
Keep the faith youlll get there
Did you bleed with adjusters backed off, another way is have drums off and put a g clamp across the wheel cylinder pistons when bleeding with clamp on other flexi and get one side working ok then other
 
Keep the faith youlll get there
Did you bleed with adjusters backed off, another way is have drums off and put a g clamp across the wheel cylinder pistons when bleeding with clamp on other flexi and get one side working ok then other
Hi Steve2286w Already done what you said and 100 other ways I am sure there is a simple solution but I must be missing it, used about 4 litres of fluid never had this trouble in years messing with old cars I think my landy is taking the p---
 
Does it go firm with lots pumps on pedal, does pedal sink with sustained pressure on it
Can you turn the wheels by hand with brakes on , pedal might go right down but brakes still work , with alll new of course as you know they need to bed in
 
Does it go firm with lots pumps on pedal, does pedal sink with sustained pressure on it
Can you turn the wheels by hand with brakes on , pedal might go right down but brakes still work , with alll new of course as you know they need to bed in
Hi if I pump pedal a few times it gets better but after leaving it a minute its same as before but pedal does not completely sink to floor but I am not really happy with pedal travel ,and if I get help (wife to press pedal) I can not move wheels but pedal is well down. near floor
 
When you changed the master cylinder did you set the height from floor to bottom of pedal at 158mm THEN set master cylinder play
If the brakes stop you then it’s probably more adjustment problem , I think you prob have all the air out
Sometimes there can be no air , but one pump needed to get pistons out and another to brake hard that was a incorrect spring problem on my 11” front brakes
when you leave yours a minute the pistons might retract needing that second pump,
I do prefer TRW Lucas to britpart master and wheel cylinders
 
Blimy. What a trail. Get the pre 1980/81 10 inch replacement kit including the wheel cylinders, shoe springs and pads. Check out Craddocks or paddock.
 
Hi The Land rover Series iii parts catalogue shows the Brake shoe anchor plate (Part No 236993)
20200123_233510.jpg
fitted to the adjusted shoe ie the shoe with the adjuster. I cant check mine at present but have had exactly the same issue, passenger side had the springs wrong the drivers side had the anchor plate wrong same problem pedal going down. Will try and upload a picture from the parts book.
 
the anchor plate is only to prevent the trailing shoe pulling away from the pivot when brake applied
 

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