steve2286w said:
When you changed the master cylinder did you set the height from floor to bottom of pedal at 158mm THEN set master cylinder play
If the brakes stop you then it’s probably more adjustment problem , I think you prob have all the air out
Sometimes there can be no air , but one pump needed to get pistons out and another to brake hard that was a incorrect spring problem on my 11” front brakes
when you leave yours a minute the pistons might retract needing that second pump,
I do prefer TRW Lucas to britpart master and wheel cylinders
Click to expand...
Thanks everyone for all your replies. Steve2286w on my landy there is no adjustment that I can find for pedal,only for brake light switch. Pedal is approx. 148mm from floor. but had my bulkhead reconditioned and galvanised but not impressed with accuracy..
 
Hi steve
Is your brake switch inside as on pic if so there may be a few bits missing mines an 84 and switch is on top of pedal box under bonnet
1E4EFFBB-1E24-43A6-9C6C-4CF549840D10.png
 
steve2286w said:
Hi steve
Is your brake switch inside as on pic if so there may be a few bits missing mines an 84 and switch is on top of pedal box under bonnetView attachment 198795
Click to expand...
Hi Steve, Yes my brake set up is as your drawing, Has your landy got servo brakes mine hasn't I am sure I have read somewhere that single pipe systems like mine have not got adjustable brake pedal but the servo types have. I might be wrong but I am sure someone will know on this forum Thanks again steve
 
steve2286w said:
If yours is as in above pic then it’s non servo and no 560223 is the pedal height adjuster bolt
Click to expand...
Hi Steve,
On my brake pedal this bolt 560223 is only to adjust the brake light switch it screws in to a tapped hole in pedal in front of brake switch. Fastened to two of the brake pedal box mounting screws thanks Steve
 
If your within 10mm hopefully shouldn’t make much difference what I’d be looking for is a full stroke of the master cylinder , on post no 10 and instruction 20 the bolt should do both but yours might differ
Keep us updated if you get it sorted
 
Is the pedal return spring pulling it up as far as it will go?
Brake switch bracket can be slotted a little to get pedal higher.
The front and rear brake cylinders are different sizes have you got the 11/4" ones on front?
Can you remove front drums and shoes and clamp cylinders to prove it is not hydraulic issue.Ie should get a solid pedal.
 
Thanks Blackburn, yes the cylinders are 1.!/4"on the front I will try what you suggest as I have only clamped both flexies and pedal is solid but only clamped cylinders when bleeding ,without checking for a good pedal ,but like I have said in my last post reply to steve 2286w that on my landy my Brake switch bracket is purely for brake light switch adjustment, and nothing to do with brake pedal adjustment. The return spring pulls pedal up solid Thanks Steve
 
It sounds as if you've done everything possible, so I've got two suggestions that I'd try if I was equally stumped.

First is new flexis and cylinders. Despite assurances from some, I don't buy Britpart, so I'd be asking https://www.shop4autoparts.net/ or http://www.dunsfold.com/ what they've got that's good. I get nearly everything from them.

Second though is to get a trusted mate in to look for something dumb that you've done and can't see for looking. If you read back over my posting history you'll see that I do it fairly frequently...
 
This sounds very similar to what i had (took me 3 weeks to sort out). Read most of the threads on here, what i ended up doing was to remove all wheels so Landy was sat on axle stands, then put small G Clamps on each wheel cylinder and bled them. I got a firm pedal after the first push. What was happening with mine (new cylinders) was one of them was slightly leaking and slipping on the snail cam. So when id adjusted it perfect with next pedal it would slip back off the snail cam hence crap pedal again. They really are basic engineering, once you have a firm pedal by clamping the cylinders off you will then know that its linked to the adjusting mechanisms.

Rich
 
That's my expereince, the most likely culpret in my opinion is one or more of the snail cams not sitting on a shoe. Could be shoes in wrong, made wrong or worn cams. I had one cam pivot worn but it adjusted up ok, problem was the wear let it tip over so it had 2 postitions, one that felt ok when I adusted it and one it took up when driving that caused a lot of pedal movement. Took ages to find but once the cam was changed the brakes were fine.
 
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