I am not 100% sure, but I think the L322 and Bimmer - while the same switch - have a different plug....looks similar but I think it is different......the legend that is Bemble (RRPhil) will know.
 
I wasn't sure either on that one, there are quite a lot of wiring differences between the two due to all the fancy crap the RR has on it that I dare not use.
 
New marque = new things to learn ;). That's the challenge of keeing your grey matter challenged after retirement ... :rolleyes:

Given the price I paid and what was superficially wrong with it (air suspension pump had already been done) felt I'd got some value buffer even in worse case failure -- the steering lock solenoid. Just that after driving it three seperate times at seller, and having a week of driving about in it after purchase, didn't expect the steering lock to go so soon accompanied by the XYZ. All immediately after a battery change out.
With LPG I see a sub-100k L322 M62 '03 to '05MY with all the "stuff" done with receipts goes for about £7k5 asking. Not there yet, but wouldn't want to have another serious major fault

I see there's a battery disconnect / re-connect procedure. How sensitive is the ECU to that if not performed in that order?
Is there an appreciable current drain when anti-theft (red flashing LED on rear view mirror) IMMO is on?
What's the difference between just locked up and "sleep mode" current drain?
When does sleep mode kick in?
Can an iSoft i930 perform an air suspension reset? When working well was getting all the facilities, even down to motorway cruise height and park up height auto setting.
 
Column was removed today -- and I'm losing the will to live. They report that the steering wheel motor was held in place by a cable tie. I'd never used or checked it :mad:
https://ibb.co/L1H1hWT

[GALLERY=]https://ibb.co/L1H1hWT[/GALLERY]
L1H1hWT
 
You are going through the ringer with this car aren't you!

You must wait for the Sat Nav to fully sleep before disconnecting the battery - usual way is to open the bonnet and the boot, look at the Nav drive, once the light goes out, disconnect the battery Negative first......once the nav light is out DO NOT open or close a door, the bonnet or boot as this will re-awaken the Nav drive - hence why have the bonnet and boot open beforehand.

Then wait a minimum of 10 minutes - I usually wait 20 minutes, to make sure the SRS system is fully discharged.....then you can remove the positive wire - this is because the positive contains a pyro charge to disconnect the battery in the even of a smash.

As for the sleep mode current draw I don't know specific values, but the red indicator lamp won't draw a lot - I can leave our L322 up to 10 days before worrying about low battery issues....

iCarsoft should be able to read and clear EAS system faults - but it can't do recalibration or other system functions.

I feel sorry for you regards the column - are they able to fix - or is it replacement column time?
 
If its only that white plastic clip Rimmers (other factors are available)have it on the shelf or did have. and did they find the shaft that goes between motor and the screw.
 
You are going through the ringer with this car aren't you!

I can handle it (he says dribbling, with just the start of a facial tic)

You must wait for the Sat Nav to fully sleep before disconnecting the battery - usual way is to open the bonnet and the boot, look at the Nav drive, once the light goes out, disconnect the battery Negative first......once the nav light is out DO NOT open or close a door, the bonnet or boot as this will re-awaken the Nav drive - hence why have the bonnet and boot open beforehand.
Then wait a minimum of 10 minutes - I usually wait 20 minutes, to make sure the SRS system is fully discharged.....then you can remove the positive wire - this is because the positive contains a pyro charge to disconnect the battery in the even of a smash.

None of that was done by the Halfords kid. Or me for that matter. Both of us in blissful ignorance. Saved and will physically paste to underside of hood. SRS = Supplemental Restraint System

As for the sleep mode current draw I don't know specific values, but the red indicator lamp won't draw a lot - I can leave our L322 up to 10 days before worrying about low battery issues....

Yes, there was definately a ½V drop even with the new Yuasa battery when connecting the battery leads. Which is why both roadside and this shop's mechanics first confidently reported either "battery flat", or "battery unusable". Old four year old Varta Blue down to 12V from 12½V disconnected; Yuasa down to 12½V from 13V disconnected.
Which is why I'm surmising that (after removing Fuse 59) the steering lock coil's stuck in circuit and taking that current. Hopefully by this time its coil's not gone short to chassis though. If so, then another complete column "for spares or repair" will have to be sourced via eBay for BBA Reman to re-condition. Shop says they're around for £200 or so. Yes, but in what real-life condition?

iCarsoft should be able to read and clear EAS system faults - but it can't do recalibration or other system functions.

I'm getting ahead of myself here. I don't know whether Electronic Air Suspension has been re-calibrated by previous when the compressor was re-built (according to kit of parts' receipt) When car was working well it seemed to perform all funtions -- to lowest setting, and motorway cruise automagically in and out to normal height

I feel sorry for you regards the column - are they able to fix - or is it replacement column time?

Well, I haven't heard back from the shop this early yet. We'll see what BBA Reman say when they see condition of the existing -- with that motor in free space -- kds (next poster) says there's a shaft not shown in my pic (that would'nt paste in thread) but it's held in place by a plastic bracket that's available from Rimmers. I don't know what either of them parts look like so not sure what to search for

Thanks for the sympathy though, gonna get that bird to mop my fevered brow, and stuff ;)
 
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If its only that white plastic clip Rimmers (other factors are available)have it on the shelf or did have. and did they find the shaft that goes between motor and the screw.

Thanks for that info kds :rolleyes: Not sure what either component looks like. But the complete (is it?) unit's going to BBA Reman today for re-furbish quote. Like the steering lock magnets, being re-builders of these steering column units for some time (and advertising the service on their web site) they'll hopefully have some stock of these two bits.
 
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<snip.
I feel sorry for you regards the column - are they able to fix - or is it replacement column time?

They say they can fix -- 10 to 14 days for the bits needed -- then they want to have the whole car for a ½ day once refitted to evaluate their work, and settings. Sounded like a plan to me so I've agreed. Repair / re-build under "Lifetime Warranty" meaning the lifetime of my ownership
 
Thanks again to all for their encouragement.

Would've preferred to post my pix in thread though.
Has this "gallery" thing on this board been shut down?
Can't find it -- there is a camera icon in the "Reply to Thread" tools icons though
 
Thanks again to all for their encouragement.

Would've preferred to post my pix in thread though.
Has this "gallery" thing on this board been shut down?
Can't find it -- there is a camera icon in the "Reply to Thread" tools icons though

Have a nosy at this screeshot:-
test.png


Click on this "button", and you'll get options to browse for the file you want to upload :)
 
I've been trying to use that but all I get is:
"The following error occured. EU-FU.jpg There was a problem when uploading your file"

Iz it coz I iz white?
 
I've been trying to use that but all I get is:
"The following error occured. EU-FU.jpg There was a problem when uploading your file"

Iz it coz I iz white?

How big is this jpeg? - I have uploaded loads of pics to LZ, some of them roughly 3Mb .... so..... ?
 
Useful introductory video for those new to this system about buying a used / re-conditioned Steering Column someone sent me URL at:
 
Useful introductory video for those new to this system about buying a used / re-conditioned Steering Column someone sent me URL at:

Amazing isn't it? A steering column used to be a length of steel bar, how ever did they manage to make it so complicated?
 
It's the weekend and I want to go out to the Sussex Downs and drive the thing!
S'pose I could go to the workshop and sit in it and go "Brrrrrm, brrrrrrrm!"

So someone's been in there before according to the pix I got of mine sent to BBA Reman on Tuesday
Only another 10 days to go... not that I'm counting.

Yes, shaft of metal -- mind you they did have a habit of spearing in the chest in a head-on.
In my yuuff drove Rover 12, Armstrong Siddley Lancaster, Rover P3, Austin Cambridge none of which had collapsible steering column AFAICR. And drove them as a youth should <shudders at memory>
 
It's the weekend and I want to go out to the Sussex Downs and drive the thing!
S'pose I could go to the workshop and sit in it and go "Brrrrrm, brrrrrrrm!"

So someone's been in there before according to the pix I got of mine sent to BBA Reman on Tuesday
Only another 10 days to go... not that I'm counting.

Yes, shaft of metal -- mind you they did have a habit of spearing in the chest in a head-on.
In my yuuff drove Rover 12, Armstrong Siddley Lancaster, Rover P3, Austin Cambridge none of which had collapsible steering column AFAICR. And drove them as a youth should <shudders at memory>
The didn't just spear the chest, my mate and I heard a crash on the dual carriage way outside, ran out to look as you do, found a Vauxhall Cresta had hit a lamp post on the drivers side, the steering wheel had taken the drivers head clean off:eek: Not something easily forgotten when you are 17.
 

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