Thanks again. I can do / reach into the fuse box OK. And from Rave have the circuit and the notes you kindly uploaded. If this Landy guy's as good (by having seen other RRs there in and out when this new shop picked up work on a classic XJ6 series I'm just getting restore finalised in the trimmers now -- intermittent coil ballast resistor that noone else could find) then I should be OK given that BBA Reman are known for good rebuilds of these steering column lock units.

It being a sunny Sunday morning I want to be out doing the tests you and others you've suggested now I have an inkling of the truth table to get the ing thing started. But it's still in the previous shop (that I've paid )

Will update (test of posting a pic from Imgbb picture hosting website follows (or not)

Hmm. That works now. Steering column lock unit as removed. Workshop said the motor was just held in place by a cable tie

And as repaired by BBA Reman (helpful lot BTW) and returned to workshop

I'm assuming the solenoid that gives up by reason of the armature magnets disintegrating is the one at the extreme RHS with the "NH" seal sticker over its end plate? So it's the nut at the end that comes in and out? Or turns? I believe the other two motors are for steering wheel up/down and in/out adjust? (Top left with the plastic cover over it, and centre)

RichardSEL said:

Thanks for coming back. Yes, both fobs' batteries were changed. The workshop found one key would retrain, while the other would not. But strangely I found both would manually perform unlock. At the workshop when initially starting after re-install of the repaired Steering Column Lock mechanism which worked but only for a few times, one key would start while the other wouldn't.

Click to expand...

Never played with an L322. The only reason I mention it is that I seem to recall @Saint.V8 replacing the battery in his and the little transponder dropping out. IIRC he got lucky and spotted it. Not sure what affect if any it would on the column but just a thought. On P38 you can clear the RF memory and that can sometimes help syncing.

On my P38 I can only resync the second key after the first (original) key has been synced.

Just thoughts. Saint and holiday chicken know way more than I ever will.

I think there is something else going on here, it’s just finding it ..

Grrrrrr said:

Never played with an L322. The only reason I mention it is that I seem to recall @Saint.V8 replacing the battery in his and the little transponder dropping out. IIRC he got lucky and spotted it. Not sure what affect if any it would on the column but just a thought. On P38 you can clear the RF memory and that can sometimes help syncing.

On my P38 I can only resync the second key after the first (original) key has been synced.

Just thoughts. Saint and holiday chicken know way more than I ever will.

Click to expand...

You can also turn off the immobiliser which disables the passive coil fitted to later cars which allows syncing from the drivers door lock. I can resync the FOB's in any order.

holidaychicken said:

I think there is something else going on here, it’s just finding it ..

Click to expand...

With the repaired steering column lock re-installed I was called to collect. But not before the same fault occured yet again. After some tooing and froeing between the workshop and BBA Reman I was left with demands to pay a £1,200-odd bill (with XYZ switch a so-called "new" one. I objected (to put it mildly) And got the bill reduced to a shade over £300 inc VAT with the assistance of an assessor (costing £180 inc) A low loader collected and took this strange rover down to the next workshop (costing £120) I'm in the queue for somewhere that I've used before and have at least confidence of.

Was called on Tuesday to say that the position of the solenoid only needed to be a mm out and it would'nt operate at all.
Not to sure whether it was the solenoid itself in total or the armature. Or the whole of the steering colum lock assembly being referred to. However went round hot foot to this second workshop to collect and pay the bill and got a good demonstration this time with both keys starting. Once, twice, thrice, and er, um, oh! The starter motor turns on both keys thus presumably both keys are synched. But there's now no firing. Plenty of speed in the starter motor too. And we topped up fuel just in case. And gave the new Yeusa battery a charge. Still nada

I seem to recall something about keys getting out of sync with the ECU that does allow firing. And there was a procedure to cure that too. But previously had been reading so many forums that I can't quite remember whether this was a procedure that needed main agent diagnostic to perform? In any event I don't have the key numbers saved outside of the keys.

Unless they're numbers that are written on a key label stuck on the transponder inside the FOB?
Can anyone remember? Whether that's where they're kept? If not, what kit is needed to read a key number?
And / or re-synch. If indeed that's the reason why there's now no starting...

Have you/they checked for fuel pressure at the rail??

The in tank pump can fail suddenly with no warning (ask how I know - in fact don't ask....painful - but a cheap-ish fix - its in the tech archive )

Right here

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/4-4-v8-bmw-in-tank-fuel-pump-replacement.200394/

RichardSEL said:

With the repaired steering column lock re-installed I was called to collect. But not before the same fault occured yet again. After some tooing and froeing between the workshop and BBA Reman I was left with demands to pay a £1,200-odd bill (with XYZ switch a so-called "new" one. I objected (to put it mildly) And got the bill reduced to a shade over £300 inc VAT with the assistance of an assessor (costing £180 inc) A low loader collected and took this strange rover down to the next workshop (costing £120) I'm in the queue for somewhere that I've used before and have at least confidence of.

Was called on Tuesday to say that the position of the solenoid only needed to be a mm out and it would'nt operate at all.
Not to sure whether it was the solenoid itself in total or the armature. Or the whole of the steering colum lock assembly being referred to. However went round hot foot to this second workshop to collect and pay the bill and got a good demonstration this time with both keys starting. Once, twice, thrice, and er, um, oh! The starter motor turns on both keys thus presumably both keys are synched. But there's now no firing. Plenty of speed in the starter motor too. And we topped up fuel just in case. And gave the new Yeusa battery a charge. Still nada

I seem to recall something about keys getting out of sync with the ECU that does allow firing. And there was a procedure to cure that too. But previously had been reading so many forums that I can't quite remember whether this was a procedure that needed main agent diagnostic to perform? In any event I don't have the key numbers saved outside of the keys.

Unless they're numbers that are written on a key label stuck on the transponder inside the FOB?
Can anyone remember? Whether that's where they're kept? If not, what kit is needed to read a key number?
And / or re-synch. If indeed that's the reason why there's now no starting...

Click to expand...

So it started 3 times and then stopped starting but only cranking which as Ant says sounds like fuel.
Being that you have had a lot going on around the key, immobiliser ECU and steering column electronics I would plug it in and check fault codes again to see if anything has popped up around the security section. The procedure you are talking about is the EWS immobiliser to Bosch ME7.2 sync that requires faultmate , T4 testbook etc. Mine does it if battery disconnected sometimes but never lost it without battery disconnect.
Check diagnostics.

holidaychicken said:

So it started 3 times and then stopped starting but only cranking which as Ant says sounds like fuel.
Being that you have had a lot going on around the key, immobiliser ECU and steering column electronics I would plug it in and check fault codes again to see if anything has popped up around the security section. The procedure you are talking about is the EWS immobiliser to Bosch ME7.2 sync that requires faultmate , T4 testbook etc. Mine does it if battery disconnected sometimes but never lost it without battery disconnect.
Check diagnostics.

Click to expand...

I've since had an invoice from the replacement workshop (down in Farnham BTW) that says: "Investigate problems with steering lock... <as I'd described previously> Secured the lock solenoid to stop its movement"
Hmmm. Welp, a fix that does allow solenoid movement isn't a fix in my book...

"Investigated non start. Removed scuttle panel, removed EMS module / gas conversation module and checked all powers / grounds. Fault found with Transfer box, connected vehicle to works communication, cleared fault codes, vehicle now starts but has no drive, after further investigation it was found that a fuse had incorrectly been fitted in the transmission transport mode to prevent vehicle front and rear wheels engaging. Removed fuse now found to be satisfactory.."

This doesn't make a lot of sense to me so I sent an email down asking about this "fuse" but no reply as yet. But your post does as that's the Electronic drive-away protection I believe they're referring to

Appreciate the replies (just changed ISPs but not found a method to update my new email address within this forum as yet, so no auto advices when there's been additions to the thread) Yes, I thought I'd read somewheres about:

holidaychicken said:

about is the EWS immobiliser to Bosch ME7.2 sync that requires faultmate , T4 testbook etc.

Click to expand...

As both keys did move to start up and turn over engine. But for it to occur just then was, well fortunate for me as I was still on the workshop's forecourt. We plugged in the ISoft again and it came up IMMO. Later the next week was called to ask about the key codes. Didn't have the file with me but thought, when I'd changed the CR2016 cells in both fobs, had written them down on a larger label and put into each fob then. If that's a function of having no battery volts (as in change battery) that I'd done at Halfrods when problems did start to occur then that would tie this saga back to a cause. What sort of car is it that doesn't allow a battery change without throwing a wobbly?

I'm going down on Thursday to collect and drive back M3-M25-A2 full of trepidation as to whether I'll make it. At least I've got Green Flag in case of another thrill-packed episode. It'd sure beat driving around in a Vulva V40

On the subject of fuse.....

In order to force the transfer box into neutral for towing, a fuse is fitted (position 5 I think...or is it 11) anyway, this turns the shift motor to neutral and disengages the transfer box.

Remove the fuse and select high ratio on the switch to re-engage drive.

COrrection to the above:

It's a 5A fuse in position 37.....

Now that procedure for protection of transfer box I do like.
So someone had presumably left fuse 37 in? Will also enquire on Thursday.

Not too sure about moving all the Prinz stuff around then and it causing start
Oh well, we'll find out on Thursday. My money's on the "EWS immobiliser to Bosch ME7.2 sync" thingie.
Not that I've got much left now...

Ant and Henry: thanks for the heads up bothering to put fingers to keyboard with your thoughts too -- most welcome

if you car was towed to the garage then that is why the fuse was fitted and somebody just didn't remove it as you say.
So are you now starting and driving ?

We have a Prinz system fitted to ours, and it can be a diva.....

The Prinz system uses an injection emulator system, two black boxes the intercept the injection signal, give it to gas ecu, then returns a signal back to the petrol ecu to tell it it has fired the injector.....

If, when moving ours ( which are located in the ebox under the bonnet), the system can throw a hissy fit...so you then have to jiggle it around again and then it all works fine!!!!!

holidaychicken said:

if you car was towed to the garage then that is why the fuse was fitted and somebody just didn't remove it as you say.
So are you now starting and driving ?

Click to expand...

I'm going down on Thursday, driving it back to civilisation then.
Now getting to the state of Basil Fawlty in the road whipping his Morris 1100 with a branch off a nearby tree

RichardSEL said:

I'm going down on Thursday, driving it back to civilisation then.
Now getting to the state of Basil Fawlty in the road whipping his Morris 1100 with a branch off a nearby tree

Click to expand...

I did that to mine last week when I was waiting for the AA. Didn't help the car much but i felt a lot better.

So, oft down to Farnham we go courtesy of Great Western Trains £11 single (from Zone 6 boundary courtesy of Mayor of London i e my taxes)

Collected from said station by intrepid Range Rover Mr Fixit in my Range Rover, yeth mathter. It liveths...
And away we go to Alton -- pull up at country retreat garage, park up and go in for a chat, pay bill, generally meet with others before moving off for lunch.

Start up, into reverse, beeps, warning lights on dash, can't go any faster in reverse than a snail's pace otherwise ABS comes on and attempts to lock wheels up. Said Mr Fixit checks all that he could, I've bought my iCarsoft i930 with me just in case. Diagnostics show left front wheel sensor fault. Eventually, a spade fuse is produced and inserted into fuse 37's socket. And after some jiggery pokery, latin incantations, burning of feathers and war dancing car does move off without brakes involuntarily trying to stop it although dash still looks like a Christmas tree.

Workshop finds dealer with new ABS sensor and fits. Mr Fixit says reluctor wheel's fine. Still no fix. Eventually, at just gone 6 o'clock having checked all continuities into ABS module sockets pronounces ABS module fault. But could not see part number (for L322 '03MY only numbers seen are 0265950056 ver 028946 Bosch BPT GF30 stamped on molding) I'm instructed to purchase re-conditioned estimated at £100,

I'm taken back to Farnham BR station courtesy of Mr Fixit's gleaming XF 5.0L coupe. Cough up another £11 for another single grate western railway ticket this time to Clapham Junction (nowadays pronounced Cla'am by the oh so up market young trendy things now the only ones that can afford to live there), change to a Victoria bound, wait 30 minutes, change to a Lewisham bound, wait 30 minutes, change to a route 89 bus (paid for... etc) and arrive back home at 20 past nine, none the worse for wear apart from the facial tic. Partner says: "I 'spose you've been having a nice day in the countryside". Police turn up at 25 minutes past nine...

Oh Richard, this L322 is really trying your patience isn't it?
Commiserations on your loss.... of wallet content and sanity.

Mine had a funny turn once after it had been for it's MOT, I think it is unfair making us MOT these fecking things as they are never on the road, mine would jam on the brakes when trying to move off and fault came back as abs sensor. i cleaned it as it was new and it did it again, so i cleared the fault and it did it again. I cleared the fault again and it has never been back since.
Did you know that Toyota owners have no word for forum.