It's a military offence not a civilian one and its perfectly legal for a civvie to be in possession of spent blank cartridge cases. The offence is in removing unfired rounds.

You can buy blank shell cases at all sorts of gift shops as key rings etc.

True.. but you know what some of these people are like!! :D
 
Looks canny. Very similar to my Landy except for the colour and mine is a hardtop.

I like your little airbox mod, funny as I was thinking about doing exactly that with mine as there is very little clearance to the hose, although the hose is in good condition. My temporary solution was to wedge some tissue in between the hose and airbox :) but I'll go with your little mod as a permanent fix. The clips on my airbox are also crap, so I can't get it to secure to the base properly. How have you oriented your airbox trumpet intake - does it point towards the front or back of your defender?
 
Looks canny. Very similar to my Landy except for the colour and mine is a hardtop.

I like your little airbox mod, funny as I was thinking about doing exactly that with mine as there is very little clearance to the hose, although the hose is in good condition. My temporary solution was to wedge some tissue in between the hose and airbox :) but I'll go with your little mod as a permanent fix. The clips on my airbox are also crap, so I can't get it to secure to the base properly. How have you oriented your airbox trumpet intake - does it point towards the front or back of your defender?

Yeah there is naff all clearance.

My trumpet I have orientated to point into the wing behind the headlight, it goes in fine with absolutely no bother. I have seen a few 2.5na's with it orientated so the trumpet points pretty much directly at the exhaust manifold. To me that's craziness as you are sucking in the hottest air in the engine.

Yeah I only have one clip left, the really fiddly on closest to the radiator! I just zip tied the mount nearest the bulkhead but left the one nearest the headlight as I couldn't get to it.

My filter housing also has cracks in the bottom where it is attached to the bracket that supports it, they appear to be from vibration - I intend to weld that or at the least silicon it. I can't see how I would seal the air route though to go wading without buying a new housing, even then I would be dubious about its water and air tightness.

Ed
 
I have mine the same as you. Yeah I've also seen that people have them in both orientations. For a snorkel setup, I guess it would have to point into the engine.

If I was wading, I would want a snorkel in there. I would replace the dump valve with a small tap or issolator type valve. That way it could be open normally to get rid of any water that may get in from rain etc but you could close it before wading.

I guess you would just have to seal the airbox with a very high quality silicone sealant.
 
I would still orientate it into the wing with a snorkel, I would just lose the trumpet and attach the snorkels pipes directly onto the filter housing. The snorkel for the 2.5na goes into the engine compartment through a hole in front of the heater blower intake grille, then down and attaches onto the filter housing via flexi pipe.

Have a google, quite a few pics, the snorkel pipe runs the whole length of the top of the wing nearly

Ed
 
Just continuing with the small jobs to get it how i want it

Battery box scabiness sorted out today

Before
battery1.jpg


After
battery5.jpg


I cleaned it, then flap wheel'd it, then 2 x coats of zinc phos primer, then 2 x coats of satin black. Fitted 2 x new spacers so that my battery doesnt slide about now.

Also did diff fluids, EP80/90 (whatever it was in there!) out and one shot grease in. Didnt do more in case the snow means i need the landy to get around over the weekend, did have other things planned though bloody weather :mad:


My plan over the summer is to strip the seats. rails, hood sticks, rollbar and all other associated fixings then repaint the cab and tub area in nato green, repaint the roll bar and seat rails, etc etc. To get to that point there is a few things i need to sort out first.

Oh yeah ordered a fume curtain from all makes trim :)

Ed
 
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Poked around a bit again this evening, was meant to be tidying the garage.

Found the steering box was replaced in 1998
reconsteeringbox.jpg


and then i decided to investigate the 3mm diameter rust spot on the rear x-member. Wish i hadnt now, screwdriver went straight through it, flap wheel on a grinder revealed a hole. I imagine it extends further than this.

rearx-memberhole.jpg


Anyone able to advise me on this? Is this repairable so it will last a few more years or is it time for a new rear x-member? As a stop gap i have ground back the proper rusted bit, and sprayed it with zinc/rust stopper paint. Will put something over the hole just to prevent the whole chassis filling with water.

Anyone able to advise?

Ed
 
that hole is right over the chassis rail bit.

I cant weld, but i can grind/cut and make a plate.

Might pop down the garage near me for some advice monday or tuesday. they do welding stuff.
 
Just continuing with the small jobs to get it how i want it

Battery box scabiness sorted out today

Before
battery1.jpg


After
battery5.jpg


I cleaned it, then flap wheel'd it, then 2 x coats of zinc phos primer, then 2 x coats of satin black. Fitted 2 x new spacers so that my battery doesnt slide about now.

Also did diff fluids, EP80/90 (whatever it was in there!) out and one shot grease in. Didnt do more in case the snow means i need the landy to get around over the weekend, did have other things planned though bloody weather :mad:


My plan over the summer is to strip the seats. rails, hood sticks, rollbar and all other associated fixings then repaint the cab and tub area in nato green, repaint the roll bar and seat rails, etc etc. To get to that point there is a few things i need to sort out first.

Oh yeah ordered a fume curtain from all makes trim :)

Ed


You put one shot grease in your diffs???
 
that hole is right over the chassis rail bit.

I cant weld, but i can grind/cut and make a plate.

Might pop down the garage near me for some advice monday or tuesday. they do welding stuff.

Fill in your location pal, there might be someone local who'll weld that for cake or chips;);)
 
Ok during some 'poking about' i discovered my rear x-member was a bit less good than i thought.......

rearx-memberhole.jpg


So i have done this today, to inspect it more, was more rusty than initially thought.

Thoughts please gentlemen, photos below!

Cut out all the weaker metal (stuff i could bend)
DSCN2856.jpg


Ground back the edges, and cleaned up the inside as best as i can with my wire wheel, brush and angle grinder
DSCN2862.jpg


DSCN2864.jpg


I hoovered out as much crap as i could, then dried everything i could so there was as little loose stuff in there as possible, the i covered it in zinc rich primer just to protect it till i can get it sorted/work out what to do

DSCN2866.jpg


Incidentally this is the back of the 'hole' or the right hand side as your looking in, i cant get a screwdriver through this but i imagine it will go through eventually!

So is this repairable or is it a new rear x-member? I dont tow or do any hardcore anything.

I have put this in a general thread aswell, hope thats ok

Ed
 
Nice.. but be prepared for the odd passing plod, (or worse RMP if you're in a Military town) to have a word. It's an offence to take blank/live rounds and pyro, or parts thereof, off training areas--even unintentionally.

He didn't take the brass from a military training area. He found them in the LR, besides he is a civilian driving a demobed LR, and there is no reason what so ever that he may not posses them.
 
Looking good. What are your other plans for it? I carried out a similar task a while back. Picked up a ex MOD 110 to tidy up and upgrade. I'm loving it - My thread here for any tips -

Lucifus 110 build
 

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