Hi everyone, I still have to unlock the brake calipers, change discs and pads and bleed, but since I have little time these days and the weather is bad, I took advantage to do some light work. On the advice of user @RobertZ , I checked the FIP timing with Nanocom with a warm engine at idle I have 750rpm, a fuel quantity current of 5.25 and a timing modulation of 44% with new chains.
Since I only had one original key with the FOB destroyed, I installed a €20 aftermarket remote key, following a guide on YouTube, if anyone is interested I attach the wiring diagram I followed

View attachment 337105

aftermarket receiver schematicView attachment 337106
I know it was better to restore it but I went for a quick and cheap solution. However it works like an expensive one. These are the copies of the keys I made, the keys are Silca HU109FP and the blade is identical to the original. I have the immobilizer and the eka code deactivated and everything works without problems.View attachment 337107
I then installed a car stereo with CD player and repaired the HEVAC LCD with a zebra stripe from a broken multimeter. Zero cost.
View attachment 337108
Next up I'll move on to the heavy duty work, including steering rods and stub axle ball joints.

Now that might be a very useful post if Huf stop supplying replacement keys and Les from Classic Rides North Wales pops his clogs.
 
And a link to the YouTube video would be good
you're right, I can't find it now, I followed the one from the Work on P38 channel, but I'll put this one from CLT Rovers which follows the same method.with immobilizer active it can cause problems as the guy wrote in description. I deactivated it and it doesn't cause problems. the only thing i noticed is that if i lock the car with the key and open with the Fob only the driver's door opens.
 
you're right, I can't find it now, I followed the one from the Work on P38 channel, but I'll put this one from CLT Rovers which follows the same method.with immobilizer active it can cause problems as the guy wrote in description. I deactivated it and it doesn't cause problems. the only thing i noticed is that if i lock the car with the key and open with the Fob only the driver's door opens.


Sounds a bit odd. There are 3 microswitches on the driver's door. One is the central locking so if that fails (closed circuit) the central locking won't work.
 
you're right, I can't find it now, I followed the one from the Work on P38 channel, but I'll put this one from CLT Rovers which follows the same method.with immobilizer active it can cause problems as the guy wrote in description. I deactivated it and it doesn't cause problems. the only thing i noticed is that if i lock the car with the key and open with the Fob only the driver's door opens.

Pretty sure I have had that happen or maybe it was the other way around. Check the country setting in the BECM.
 
Sounds a bit odd. There are 3 microswitches on the driver's door. One is the central locking so if that fails (closed circuit) the central locking won't work.
this is true, microswitches must always be in good condition. I opened, cleaned, lubricated and closed the locks with a thin layer of waterproof grease along the gasket, I hope it helps keep away humidity which is the worst enemy of microswitches
Pretty sure I have had that happen or maybe it was the other way around. Check the country setting in the BECM.
What can the country setting do?
 
this is true, microswitches must always be in good condition. I opened, cleaned, lubricated and closed the locks with a thin layer of waterproof grease along the gasket, I hope it helps keep away humidity which is the worst enemy of microswitches

What can the country setting do?
The country setting does lots of things. In the USA, for security reasons, on many cars only the drivers door unlocks on a single FOB press, not sure if that applies to the P38 as I have never tried it but worth a look.
 
The locking works because triggering the button microswitch (i.e. CDL switch) makes the BECM thinks you're inside the car & want all the doors to lock. Conversely when unlocking using the button, the mod makes the BECM think you want to unlock that door.

To make it work properly the mod would need to simulate both CDL & Keyswitch actions together, i.e. CDL changes state and key is moving right or left.
 
The locking works because triggering the button microswitch (i.e. CDL switch) makes the BECM thinks you're inside the car & want all the doors to lock. Conversely when unlocking using the button, the mod makes the BECM think you want to unlock that door.

To make it work properly the mod would need to simulate both CDL & Keyswitch actions together, i.e. CDL changes state and key is moving right or left.
the remote station installed gives power to the motor that opens and closes, then the cdl does the rest. so as you say, it makes the becm believe that someone is inside and blocks the lock... if you have the immobilizer active it is a modification that I would not recommend.
 
Hello everyone, unfortunately I have been very busy lately and have dedicated less time to the Rangie, the work has dragged on but I am moving forward. I have tackled the tedious task of replacing the ball joints along with the two steering rods. Equipped with a flame, press and a lot of patience I managed to renovate the front end.
1.JPG

I also changed the brake caliper seals and pistons, there was a lot of dirt inside!!
2.JPG

3.JPG

New tyres
4.JPG

After bleeding the brakes following the RAVE procedure, I have the right front brake that has less power than the left even if no more air came out. I probably have some air bubbles inside because when I disassembled the left caliper to clean it, I closed the terminal with a bolt but it dripped and probably the whole circuit emptied, maybe I should use a brake bleeding pump. I used it a bit on private roads in agricultural areas, the engine temperature settles between 90 and 92 ° celsius, can it be considered good?
 
Hello everyone, unfortunately I have been very busy lately and have dedicated less time to the Rangie, the work has dragged on but I am moving forward. I have tackled the tedious task of replacing the ball joints along with the two steering rods. Equipped with a flame, press and a lot of patience I managed to renovate the front end.View attachment 338020
I also changed the brake caliper seals and pistons, there was a lot of dirt inside!!
View attachment 338021
View attachment 338022
New tyres
View attachment 338023
After bleeding the brakes following the RAVE procedure, I have the right front brake that has less power than the left even if no more air came out. I probably have some air bubbles inside because when I disassembled the left caliper to clean it, I closed the terminal with a bolt but it dripped and probably the whole circuit emptied, maybe I should use a brake bleeding pump. I used it a bit on private roads in agricultural areas, the engine temperature settles between 90 and 92 ° celsius, can it be considered good?
Temperature is OK, 95 is optimum.
 
I don't want to talk about the reliability issue that has been talked about a lot in every part of the planet. I found the car converted to coil springs and I will leave it like that because I don't like air suspensions, I never liked them on motorcycles, bicycles and cars. On motorcycles and bicycles they work at higher pressures and have a strange progression, from the spring you always know what to expect, I have always replaced the air suspensions with coil springs, and so have many of my friends who raced. In motocross the high quality suspensions are coil springs. In cars it is different because the air cushions have a large volume and work at lower pressures so they are more comfortable than the coil springs as well as having the advantage of having adjustable height, in my opinion useful on a cargo vehicle. The disadvantage is a greater roll and the "boat" effect that make the driving very filtered, in my opinion the coil springs make the driving more sincere and predictable. of all the cars with air suspensions that I have tried I appreciated the comfort but not the driving, they adapt to many situations but do not excel in anything. I respect those who use the EAS but I have never thought of removing the springs but probably in the future I will use a more braking hydraulics and remove the rear anti-roll bar to recover some travel, as I also did in the Nissan Terrano. The biggest problem I have now is with the brakes, after changing the caliper pistons, the oil and having bled the brakes twice in a row following the RAVE, I have little braking power on the front right wheel, I am thinking of a leak, the modulator, or some brake lines that need changing...
 

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