[flanne101]

Hi, my freelander is very slow pulling away from junctions, I just always thought it is a slow car but after googling 0-60 Realised it should be faster than my girlfriends car but it is miles slower.
I have just changed the Maf sensor and not noticed any difference but I also noticed a small box under the hood which after some googling is a synergy 2.
The switch labelled air was in the off position so I have now turned that on, and it seems to be more responsive on the pedal but I have not taken the car for a drive yet.
Could that switch being off be the cause of the slow car.
I have also bought a new pipe for the air temp sensor to replace that, I have had to buy a new plug because one of the wires broken off the sensor plug, so will solder that when it arrives.

 

[Arctic2]

What MAF did you purchase a genuine Bosch or a Pierburg MAF personally i would be removing that synergy because they make the High Pressure Fuel Pump fail earlier.

A Bosch MAF will not work properly with a synergy.

 

[andyfreelandy]

Check inlet manifold and EGR for being clogged too.

I had one EGR that caused a dead spot as pulling away. Blanking the vacuum to it removed the problem.

 

[flanne101]

What MAF did you purchase a genuine Bosch or a Pierburg MAF personally i would be removing that synergy because they make the High Pressure Fuel Pump fail earlier.

A Bosch MAF will not work properly with a synergy.

A cheap one from ebay not a genuine one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364184535320

 

[hd3]

some info re. the synergy module :

Wanted - SYNERGY 2 Fitting Guide

Hey all, I know there a loads of posts about the Synergy 2, i've read most of them, which, is why i managed to buy a second hand box from E-bay for £80. However, it doesn't have any instructions for fitting, can anyone help? Thanks,

www.landyzone.co.uk

...............

 

[Arctic2]

A cheap one from ebay not a genuine one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364184535320

That wont work with a synergy you need a Pierbug MAF, and even if you did not have a synergy it would not work, well it might for a while then it would fail, i would send it back.

BOSCH 0928400520 AIR MASS SENSOR MAF FITS LAND ROVER FREELANDER MG ZT ZT-T ROVER | eBay

MG MG ZT 2.0 CDTi Saloon Diesel 11/2002 05/2005 FWD 16 131 96. MG MG ZT 2.0 CDTi Saloon Diesel 06/2002 09/2003 FWD 16 116 85. MG MG ZT- T 2.0 CDTi Estate Diesel 11/2002 05/2005 FWD 16 131 96. MG MG ZT- T 2.0 CDTi Estate Diesel 06/2002 05/2005 FWD 16 116 85.

www.ebay.co.uk

The one you took off check inside to see if it's bosch or not.

A

Genuine original MAF.

1

2

3

4

Purchased the one above for a friend from ebay for £15 saying it came from working FL1 we will know once we fit it and hook up either the T4 or the Hawkeye diagnostic tool.

5

 

[flanne101]

The car is now pulling but all the grunt seems at low revs and if I floor the accelerator I get what I can only describe as a black smoke bomb from the back. It was on no 8 so I will try again later at no4 on the box.

 

[Arctic2]

The car is now pulling but all the grunt seems at low revs and if I floor the accelerator I get what I can only describe as a black smoke bomb from the back. It was on no 8 so I will try again later at no4 on the box.

Check all the intercooler hoses EGR hose etc for any splits the sign of puff of black smoke is a split hose, you could also try removing the synergy go back to stock and see how it runs then with the cheap MAF and or unplug the MAF once back to stock and see if it runs better.

 

[flanne101]

If I turn both switches off on the synergy is that the same as unpugging it .

 

[Arctic2]

If I turn both switches off on the synergy is that the same as unpugging it .

No with the Bosch MAF the synergy needs to be disconnected from the car wiring completely, then test to see how it runs with the MAF then unplugged see what the differences are.

As i stated in a post above the synergy will damaged the HPFP and that will be a bigger cost than the price of a synergy and a lot more work than just removing it from your FL1

 

[flanne101]

If I turn both switches off on the synergy is that the same as unpugging it .

Ok I just fitted a new air filter and un

No with the Bosch MAF the synergy needs to be disconnected from the car wiring completely, then test to see how it runs with the MAF then unplugged see what the differences are.

As i stated in a post above the synergy will damaged the HPFP and that will be a bigger cost than the price of a synergy and a lot more work than just removing it from your FL1

unplugged the synergy and connected the maf and it was awful with no throttle response.I unplugged the maf and with the synergy 2 and the with the maf unplugged it is very responsive to the throttle and probably better than when it was connected with the synergy.
I wonder if the ebay maf is absolute garbage, it was only £20.
The back of the top cover on the air filter is not fitting very well with both screws at the back not biting, could this cause an issue with the maf connected Ie effect the air flow somehow.

 

[Arctic2]

Ok I just fitted a new air filter and un

unplugged the synergy and connected the maf and it was awful with no throttle response.I unplugged the maf and with the synergy 2 and the with the maf unplugged it is very responsive to the throttle and probably better than when it was connected with the synergy.
I wonder if the ebay maf is absolute garbage, it was only £20.
The back of the top cover on the air filter is not fitting very well with both screws at the back not biting, could this cause an issue with the maf connected Ie effect the air flow somehow.

The air filter cover would not cause the problem you are having, you have found the problem, the MAF is no good i didn't expect it to be, cheap MAF's never work you get the response you got when you plugged it in.

With the MAF and the synergy not connected or plugged into the cars system you are getting the default response built into the car which would get you out of trouble if the MAF ever failed and it went into limp mode, that is why it's always best to test the car with out the MAF plugged in if it runs better then the MAF is faulty or no good at all.

You now have three choices.
1 buy a good genuine MAF Bosch and remove the synergy off the car.

2 leave the synergy in place and but a pierburg MAF for it, but i have informed you the synergy will damage the High pressure fuel pump in the long run.

3 Drive it with the MAF unplugged also remove the synergy you may get less MPG but it will run fine.

There a 4th choice get a mafless map put on the FL1 then you will never have to worry about the MAF ever again.


The air filter cover needs to be fitted with the rear left screw first starting to grip, then the rear right once those are started the top three will follow ok.

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - Air Filter Cover (Re-Fitting) Diesel

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forum where everything about these wonderful MG Rover cars can be discussed and discovered

www.the75andztclub.co.uk

 

[Arctic2]

Ok I just fitted a new air filter and un

unplugged the synergy and connected the maf and it was awful with no throttle response.I unplugged the maf and with the synergy 2 and the with the maf unplugged it is very responsive to the throttle and probably better than when it was connected with the synergy.
I wonder if the ebay maf is absolute garbage, it was only £20.
The back of the top cover on the air filter is not fitting very well with both screws at the back not biting, could this cause an issue with the maf connected Ie effect the air flow somehow.

The air filter cover would not cause the problem you are having, you have found the problem, the MAF is no good i didn't expect it to be, cheap MAF's never work you get the response you got when you plugged it in.

With the MAF and the synergy not connected or plugged into the cars system you are getting the default response built into the car which would get you out of trouble if the MAF ever failed and it went into limp mode, that is why it's always best to test the car with out the MAF plugged in if it runs better then the MAF is faulty or no good at all.

You now have three choices.
1 buy a good genuine MAF Bosch and remove the synergy off the car.

2 leave the synergy in place and but a pierburg MAF for it, but i have informed you the synergy will damage the High pressure fuel pump in the long run.

3 Drive it with the MAF unplugged also remove the synergy you may get less MPG but it will run fine.

There a 4th choice get a mafless map put on the FL1 then you will never have to worry about the MAF ever again.


The air filter cover needs to be fitted with the rear left screw first starting to grip, then the rear right once those are started the top three will follow ok.

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - Air Filter Cover (Re-Fitting) Diesel

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forum where everything about these wonderful MG Rover cars can be discussed and discovered

www.the75andztclub.co.uk

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - MAF Mod Diesel.

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forum where everything about these wonderful MG Rover cars can be discussed and discovered

www.the75andztclub.co.uk

Double post i don't know why

 

[Dippypud]

The air filter cover would not cause the problem you are having, you have found the problem, the MAF is no good i didn't expect it to be, cheap MAF's never work you get the response you got when you plugged it in.

With the MAF and the synergy not connected or plugged into the cars system you are getting the default response built into the car which would get you out of trouble if the MAF ever failed and it went into limp mode, that is why it's always best to test the car with out the MAF plugged in if it runs better then the MAF is faulty or no good at all.

You now have three choices.
1 buy a good genuine MAF Bosch and remove the synergy off the car.

2 leave the synergy in place and but a pierburg MAF for it, but i have informed you the synergy will damage the High pressure fuel pump in the long run.

3 Drive it with the MAF unplugged also remove the synergy you may get less MPG but it will run fine.

There a 4th choice get a mafless map put on the FL1 then you will never have to worry about the MAF ever again.


The air filter cover needs to be fitted with the rear left screw first starting to grip, then the rear right once those are started the top three will follow ok.

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - Air Filter Cover (Re-Fitting) Diesel

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forum where everything about these wonderful MG Rover cars can be discussed and discovered

www.the75andztclub.co.uk

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - MAF Mod Diesel.

The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forum where everything about these wonderful MG Rover cars can be discussed and discovered

www.the75andztclub.co.uk

Double post i don't know why

LZ glitch in the early morning server run ...

 

[flanne101]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126034795344 I just bought this one and will give it a try when it arrives.

 

[Arctic2]

Always best to fit a new air filter when you fit a new MAF sensor.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[flanne101]

Always best to fit a new air filter when you fit a new MAF sensor.

Pardon our interruption...

Done that thanks, It is very smoky now with the maf disconnected, but a lot more grunt on the pedal. Hopefully when I ft the Bosch maf and fix the air temp sensor that will fix the smoke issue.

 

[flanne101]

I just fitted a new genuine bosch maf sensor and repaired the air intake temp sensor by fitting a new one and a new pipe. It is no longer smoking when I rev the engine but it does not seem to have the same quick response that it had with the maf disconnected. The horrible raspy noise that it had with the maf disconnected when revving has gone now, hopefully, it performs ok when I drive the car later fingers crossed.

 

[Arctic2]

I just fitted a new genuine bosch maf sensor and repaired the air intake temp sensor by fitting a new one and a new pipe. It is no longer smoking when I rev the engine but it does not seem to have the same quick response that it had with the maf disconnected. The horrible raspy noise that it had with the maf disconnected when revving has gone now, hopefully, it performs ok when I drive the car later fingers crossed.

Give it a good drive and let us know how it performed

 

[hd3]

but it does not seem to have the same quick response that it had with the maf disconnected.

that's normal ..
.......................
if you use the synergy module .. stick to no.2 setting for a bosch maf ..
or the no.7 setting for a pierburg maf ..
that way you won't be putting too much stress on the hp.pump.
ppl go for the pierburg maf as it's generally more reliable .. and cheaper than the bosch.
.......................
if you want a quicker td4/m47 .. one with better response to the go-pedal .. i'd suggest,
an 'egr' delete ... plus :
1] a straight thru exhaust back-box
2] this mod :

intercooler problem mod

Is biggamehunter still on here? If so can he pm me about this mod? I need some advice on the mounting of the sensor in the ally pipe. Ta.

www.landyzone.co.uk

[ unless your off-roading .. remove the foam cover from the air-filter ]
3] get an engine re-map .. far safer for the hp.pump as it works on injector opening time,
as opposed to much increasing the fuel pressure .. stage 1 is about 140 bhp.
4] fit larger tyres to take advantage of the increased torque ..
and make the speedometer read more accurate.
5] with the remap, one can still use the synergy box if desired ..
best not higher than the no.2 / no.7 settings .. and ..
with the optional 'eco' dash switch .. set to eco1 or eco2.

with an engine remap .. the engine exhaust note will be quieter ..
i.e. not raspy, as with the synergy box alone.

[ edit to add ]
the quicker the air velocity thru the maf sensor .. and the cooler the air ..
the quicker the response from the engine to go-pedal demand .
..............
and .. don't expect a diesel to rev/accelerate as quick as a petrol engine
i.e. like for like re. bhp .. .. as pistons 'n such are generally heavier ..
however .. the diesel will have more torque , especially at lower rpm.
so imho .. work with the torque to upgrade the td4/m47 performance. ..
plus .. you'll have no need of using the higher revs to get a move-on ..;-]
.
and to add .. for a manual gearbox ..
better torque at the lower rpm , is easier / less stressful for the clutch 'n drivetrain .. all in all.
...........
a tip from these pages ..
evidently it's easier on the clutch mechanism,
to start the engine with foot off the clutch pedal .. 'n in 'neutral obviously ;-]
something to do less stress on a bearing inside the clutch/flywheel mechanism ..
[ keep foot off go-pedal as well ]
.