In-tank fuel pump replacement

New to the forum! we have a Y reg freelander TD4, lovely car (better than the Honda CRV we had) we have a problem with low fuel pressure, we broke down in tescos of all places, called the RAC, he thumped the fuel tank and it did start, we got a friend to put his diagnostic thingy on it and the code said 'low fuel pressure' It was alright for a few days but broke down again, i lifted the back seats and found the in-tank fuel pump, it appeared to be making a very a faint wirring noise, i thumped it and it made a much louder wirring noise and we started again, I'm going to change the in-tank fuel pump, it looks pretty straight forward, but would appriciated some pointers, it appears to be held in place by a plastc ring, do i just unscrew this? do i need to clamp the fuel lines, how do i disconnect the fuel lines? also i tried disconnecting the pump by disconecting the electrical connector, it still started, maybe because the pump at the front was enough? any ideas how to prove it is the pump, anyway i can't replicate the problem, i think i'll change teh pump anyway as i've seen a few post discribing similar problems. Thanks in advance for help!

Try the search option..... then try my posts as I've done both pumps recently.

If you can borrow the correct tool forn the filter it makes refitting much simpler.

The 'quick fit' plastic connections are a little delicate, take care when unclippping them and be sure to pull the connections out 'level' and square so as not to snap them.

Yeh dead easy just unscrew the plastic nut but same as Harrold 4x4 says be carefull with the fuel lines and all will be fine oh by the way the sealing ring when re fitting can be a bit fiddly but nothing too taxing

pete bolton said:

New to the forum! we have a Y reg freelander TD4, lovely car (better than the Honda CRV we had) we have a problem with low fuel pressure, we broke down in tescos of all places, called the RAC, he thumped the fuel tank and it did start, we got a friend to put his diagnostic thingy on it and the code said 'low fuel pressure' It was alright for a few days but broke down again, i lifted the back seats and found the in-tank fuel pump, it appeared to be making a very a faint wirring noise, i thumped it and it made a much louder wirring noise and we started again, I'm going to change the in-tank fuel pump, it looks pretty straight forward, but would appriciated some pointers, it appears to be held in place by a plastc ring, do i just unscrew this? do i need to clamp the fuel lines, how do i disconnect the fuel lines? also i tried disconnecting the pump by disconecting the electrical connector, it still started, maybe because the pump at the front was enough? any ideas how to prove it is the pump, anyway i can't replicate the problem, i think i'll change teh pump anyway as i've seen a few post discribing similar problems. Thanks in advance for help!

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Hi pete ,
Just done mine 2 weeks ago, easy enough to do just proceed with care, up with the rear seat and carpets,locking ring has a special landrover tool i used a big lump of wood and tapped around the ring at several points so as not to ruin the ring. Mark with tipex the point where the ring and chassis are in relation to each othe rwhen tight and at the point where the ring pops off it will make reassembly easier later.
With that loose remove the inlet and outlet connectors for the fuel lines [mark which one is which ] and the multiway plug for the pump and sender also fbh feed pipe if you have one.
Check you have power at this plug one wire is fuel sender and the other pump plus two black earth wires if i remember correctly the one on top left as you look at plug is pump voltage [ you will need to test with the ign just switched on cos after a short while the voltage supply will cease anyway [ i made this mistake !]
Pull up on the pump and be careful with the sender unit float you may have to tip it to side and be ready for diesel spillage. Remove sealing ring on the edge of the tank [it may come out with the pump body].
Refit or put on new seal to the edge of the tank wipe away any spillage and refit new pump [careful with the sender float]fasten the ring into position lining up the marks you made with tipex and tap the ring to tighten .
Now refit multi plug and the two fuel pipes to the correct union they maybe a tight fit and the lug that you squeeze to remove it may need a careful squeeze with pliers to get them to lock into position if you have a fbh replace that pipe if not blank it off with the short rubber tube off the old pump , check connectors and turn ignition on check pump runs , do this 2 or 3 times to help bleed air from system and then start car it may run lumpy and smoke a bit but run at fast tickover to allow system th self prime .
Home this helps
Alan

I've just done all the mods recently (inc both Fuel Pumps). If you live near Manchester and want a steer?, then PM me and I'll help ya

Cheers, Mark

Thanks everyone, part replaced successfully, pretty straight forward, great advise, The trickiest bit is refitting the black collar that holds the pump in, if your going to have a go at this, theres is a groove on the collar that lines up with the highest part of the thread on the tank and the pump has a tab that lines up with a coresponding gap on the tank, get this right and as i say its straight forward. I'm not a mechanic so i did get my friend who is a mechanic to check my work, he gave it the thumbs up. The car breaking down funnily enough hasn't been a bad experience, we identified the problem, got a spare part and fitted it ourselves all within a few days for £100. I'm not sure i could have done that with the Honda CRV we had before and the part would have been 4 times as expensive!
(We didn't fit a landrover part, we got a pump from 'Allmakes' the freelander we have is 10 years old and has done 120k miles!). Thanks again

Read this set of postings on fuel pump. I had same problem. The garage replaced pump Thursday and I got it home via petrol fill up. Tried starting it again Saturday and it wouldn't start again - starter turns but doesn't fire. Any suggestions?

dullinghamsam said:

Read this set of postings on fuel pump. I had same problem. The garage replaced pump Thursday and I got it home via petrol fill up. Tried starting it again Saturday and it wouldn't start again - starter turns but doesn't fire. Any suggestions?

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welcome , it would be a good idea to introduce yourself to the loonyzone or you will get some flack

a few things will prevent the td4 from starting ,
1, if you are not getting fuel pressure at ignition switch on , measured at the common rail pressure sensor
you could have a fouled fuel filter

how much petrol did you put in ?

john t said:

welcome , it would be a good idea to introduce yourself to the loonyzone or you will get some flack

a few things will prevent the td4 from starting ,
1, if you are not getting fuel pressure at ignition switch on , measured at the common rail pressure sensor
you could have a fouled fuel filter

how much petrol did you put in ?

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Hi - introducing myself (and thanks for response) Well... I acquired the 1.8 petrol K series(?) R Reg Landy from my in/outlaw whose a real LR freak (sorry engineer and enthusiast) and who had this baby from birth and has now allowed my the priviledge of baby sitting (ownership) for my winter weekly 500 mile round trip to work! Its been OK for the last 12 months until Fuel pump problem. I replaced the pump Thursday - Drove 25 miles home from 4x4 centre via fuelling - to brim! Started once now back to square 1 and back to commuting in lesser being.

Sorry for the thread bump, my 2.0 Diesel TD4 is in the shop at the min with a suspected in tank fuel pump problem. Garage are talking about dropping the rear axle to replace it as the tank is apparently larger than normal?!

Caekii said:

Sorry for the thread bump, my 2.0 Diesel TD4 is in the shop at the min with a suspected in tank fuel pump problem. Garage are talking about dropping the rear axle to replace it as the tank is apparently larger than normal?!

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Tell them to stop until they know what they're doing! This in tank pump is accessible through the boot floor. Lift the seats and carpet up to reveal a circular plate. Unscrew it, and then unscrew the big plastic ring that holds the pump/fuel level sender in place. Undo the fuel pipe and electrical connectors and the whole thing will then lift out.
Replacement is in reverse.

Easy job, no more than half an hour to do. You certainly don't need to take the tank out or drop the axle!!

Strange turn of phrase" in the shop" very American. Suggest following Creeeg's advice.