Somethings Not Right!?

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Anguslives!

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OK New to LandyZone and newish to a Landrover. I bought my first LR about 6 to 7 months ago. Shopped around a little and bought what I thought was a good one, Service History, good home etc.

Anyhow the car's in great condition and hasn't given me any problems until now, I actually checked the water last week and all was OK, wife took it out and when she came back I could hear the fan working away so went out asked her about temp but she never noticed it, then car started to run different whilst parked up, noticed white smoke from exhaust and turned it off. Popped bonnet and noticed water was gone? Let it cool down a bit and put water back in, started it up and it ran smooth for 20 secs, then started to judder again engine management light came on and turned off the engine.

Looked under car, no leak? No sign of a leak on engine? My Dad called over and he thought perhaps an air lock so put more and more water in..... Water eventually came up dip stick......

Uncle called over, retired Bus Mech. He took off oil cap and told my Dad to start engine. Milky Oil erupted up. (Not Gooood) engine tried to start but failed.

So next day I stripped it down and inspected head cant see a crack, but going to have it tested, Gasket looks fine, and from what I can tell liners look OK and still move up and down correctly.

Now I know K series aren't the best but I've also got an MGF and that's ran proud for me sinces I bought it 9 years ago. I look after the engines and they look after me, well normally!!

Any ideas..........?
 
Private Sale or I would have. Not frightened of a little hard work just wanted some pointers on this as its a bit of a stump and not sure if others have come across this one before?
 
Yep and Sorry! I'm a petrol boy, did look at diesels but thought if trouble starts it's normally cheaper to fix a petrol issue..... Could be wrong about that now haha.
 
Anguslives! said:
liners look OK and still move up and down correctly.
Click to expand...

OMFG!

faint.gif
 
OMFG! able to turn crank and liners moved OK, read a little about them dropping but would they still move if dropped?
 
The coolant leaks past the liner, in between the aluminium support, which extends up to about a third/half the length of the liner, and ends with a shoulder at 90 degrees, where the liners is pressed against, at 45%, sealed with hylomar.
With usage the liners tend to fret (move about very slightly) which helps breaking the seal, and lets tiny amounts of water through, between the aluminium and the liner. The tolerances are very close, so it will at first be minute amounts. If not arrested, the leak increases and the liner will become more loose, eventually start loosing the seal at the top as well, and then you have HGF.
A loose liner, as described,will only result in water being forced past into the oil, thus moisture/mayo under the cap, and contamination of the oil. There will be no HGF, unless you allow the process to develop, where the liner will eventually start moving up and down, where it can even create a ridge in the cylinder head!

What you have done is to break all the seals between all the liners and the supports. The engine will need to be completely stripped and rebuilt to stand any chance of being reusable :rolleyes:


Tiz ****ed!
 
But that's why you measure them at the highest level and ensure all are correct and equal. Supposing one fails you can have new made up and the repair sleeves if required. What would you do if the pistons go, me I would fix them. It's time and cost, against replacing.
 
In all fairness it's almost completely out already, with seeing the head and gasket my thought turned to the liners, didn't know about the liner issues only the head when I bought it, just out of curiosity does that "Rights thing" apply to private sales???
 
Why do you think that in almost every engine overhaul section of the Rave, It states quite categorically "Caution: Ensure cylinder retainer clamps LRT-12-144 are fitted"?

and even more specifically ....
"CAUTION: It will be necessary to temporarily remove cylinder liner retainer clamps LRT-12-144 in order to test the bolt used with the retainer clamp. Retainer clamps should only be removed one at a time and replaced immediately bolt test is completed. Take great care not to rotate crankshaft or disturb cylinder liners whilst clamps are removed."

Also
"CAUTION: Removal of pistons will necessitate removal and re-sealing of cylinder liners."
 
Last edited:
So do you all agree that its prob the liners!? I water tested the head and it held it all no signs of a crack, still going to get it tested etc might as well since it's off, so my next job is to get the bottom end out and stripped down. See what the seals are like, pistons etc and take it from there! Would have preferred to be watching the TV but I did buy the K!
 
That's the right attitude, get down to it and fix it and it'll be sorted.
Be sure to fit the new MLS gasket with steel dowels and if you're going to have the engine out then it'd be a simple job to fit the uprated oil rail (which fits in the sump and which the head bolts go into). You may find it useful to get a copy of the RAVE CD yourself, i'm sure you can google that yourself though.
 
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