Bleeding brakes!

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N

Norbet

New Member
Posts
164
Recently attempted bleeding the brakes on my 04 TD4 - managed to do one of the rears and the two fronts with no problems, howvever one of the rear drums the bleed screw would not budge and began rounding off on the spanner. Didn't want to attack it with blow torch for fear of rubber component damage.
Now all is ok, brakes work, nothing leaking so not a major issue I guess - I assume that only that rear circuit has old fluid it in, but in order to sort this will I have to dis-assemble the drum and remove the cylinder inside? Will I need to replace the cylinder? Is it possible to replace the bleed screw alone (I appreciate the cylinder aint expensive, but if the old one is fine is there any need?)
Is this a simple job? Anything I need to watch out for?
Advice/suggestions much appreciated.

Cheers
N:
 
Hi,
Can you get a pair of vise grips or similar onto the nipple to release it. I'm not sure if access is an issue on freelanders. I have managed this on other vehicles, might save you changing the cylinder.
If you can get a replacement nipple, maybe from an old cylinder, just swop it and re-bleed.
 
Chaser said:
Hi,
Can you get a pair of vise grips or similar onto the nipple to release it. I'm not sure if access is an issue on freelanders. I have managed this on other vehicles, might save you changing the cylinder.
If you can get a replacement nipple, maybe from an old cylinder, just swop it and re-bleed.
Click to expand...

Yeah tried the grips and this only led to further rounding - although fairly easy to get to, the bleed screws on the FL drums are a bit tricky to undo - couldn't get a socket or closed spanner around it (which I'd have used in the first place).

I suspect this will be a case of having to remove the cylinder which may make access to the bleed screw a bit easier - However - is removing the cylinder fairly straight foward or does it need the bleed screw to be removed first?
Just been looking among online parts suppliers - it seems that a bleed screw nipple on it's own is quite hard find - maybe a new cylinder job...

That'll keep the regulars happy - this thread features the words "hard" and "nipple" - queue comdey responses!

N:
 
Norbet said:
Recently attempted bleeding the brakes on my 04 TD4 - managed to do one of the rears and the two fronts with no problems, howvever one of the rear drums the bleed screw would not budge and began rounding off on the spanner. Didn't want to attack it with blow torch for fear of rubber component damage.
Now all is ok, brakes work, nothing leaking so not a major issue I guess - I assume that only that rear circuit has old fluid it in, but in order to sort this will I have to dis-assemble the drum and remove the cylinder inside? Will I need to replace the cylinder? Is it possible to replace the bleed screw alone (I appreciate the cylinder aint expensive, but if the old one is fine is there any need?)
Is this a simple job? Anything I need to watch out for?
Advice/suggestions much appreciated.

Cheers
N:
Click to expand...



Norbet.. Ya need ta get yourself a mini pair of Stilsons, get them
ajusted properly on the nipple..(uhhh) :rolleyes: and the more yoo undo, the
tighta they gripp!
I have a 6" pair that i use on basted bolts that wont budge! very handy!;)
If ya wonderin wot im on about, av a look at these!..

PAIR OF KING DICK 10" STILSONS on eBay, also, Hand Tools, Garage Equipment Tools, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 26-Oct-08 16:17:23 GMT)

Good Luc ;)
 
Apply heat directly to the 'nipple' only using e.g soldering iron tip or I use a Draper pencil flame gun an awesome bit of kit which is refuelled from a gas lighter refill.

I fear you have unleashed a monster with this thread re: 'nipple' 'hard' and 'King Dick' god help us! D..
 
Just leave it & for now bleed from the pipe union.That'll leave only a small amount of old fluid in the cylinder itself. Next service or summertime fit a new cylinder which shouldn't cost a massive amount.
 
In the same situ. last week, tried to have the brakeoil replaced but been put to an halt as the backwheels bleedingnipples unable to release. It's a so louzy constructions that there is indeed no way to put a socket or a closed spanner on it, the screw of the bleeding nipple and the screw of the arrival of the brakeoil are too close one to the other. With an open spanner all you can achieve is to round the sh.. I think that at the dealer's they just remove the cylinder and put a new one on which they then, after refilling/bleeding the system, they can close the nipple with an open spanner up till the point they feel it's closed without risking of having to 'round' the screw.
 
tinytdi said:
Quick tip - slide a tight fitting drill bit down the inside of the nipple when you try and loosen it. It stops the nipple from collapsing inwards and stops em snapping.
Click to expand...

Now its little bursts of pure genious like this that make this forum worth reading.

A case of 'That is so obviously the way to do it, but why didn't
I think of that!!'

Many thanks.

:praise:
 
Here’s one that works. The only thing that stops a decent socket fitting over the nipple is the aluminum boss surrounding the brake pipe connection. With a small flat metal file slightly larger than a needle file, file some of the ally back until your socket fits (1/4” drive best). It doesn’t take much for a good quality thin walled socket to fit. It’s a bit tricky but there’s plenty of meat on the cylinder casting to safely do this and it certainly gets you out of a difficult situation just before you finally round off the nipple flats and shaft yourself completely.
 
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