Smoke visible from space

I've run out of ideas!! Help!

I have a 1993 200Tdi Disco with 100k on the clock. When starting from cold it smokes more than any car I have ever seen!!

The smoke is grey and smells of diesel. At the same time there is a terrible misfire, and stalls if you give it too much throttle. Once the thing has enough power to move it limps down the road at tick-over despite throttle until it suddenly gets much better but it always smokes to some extent. And it is down on power.

Once running blue smoke appears when running downhill with a little throttle, not under load and not when coasting.

I've changed glow plugs, fuel filter, head gasket, valve stem oil seals, turbo, injector pump. i've had the compressions tested as well - 400 400 390 350 which i think are OK.

Where next!???

sounds like your injection pump timing is retarded, cud have jumped a tooth on the drive belt (when was this last changed?)

Hmm you might be right. I don't know when the belt was change.......But I set the injector pump timing when i changed it. (I used the land rover "special tools" to fix the injector pump whilst I lining up the fly wheel notch.) If it was a timing belt problem wouldn't this have fixed it??

croesus said:

Hmm you might be right. I don't know when the belt was change.......But I set the injector pump timing when i changed it. (I used the land rover "special tools" to fix the injector pump whilst I lining up the fly wheel notch.) If it was a timing belt problem wouldn't this have fixed it??

Click to expand...

check the fred "white smoke"

Hmm from reading that it sounds like it might be faulty injector pump timing. Could this have been caused by a loose crank pulley bolt?

croesus said:

Hmm from reading that it sounds like it might be faulty injector pump timing. Could this have been caused by a loose crank pulley bolt?

Click to expand...

Doubt it, look how tight it is and how far it would have to slide out before it would affect it, also it would more likely shred the belt than jump a tooth, and it would throw the timing off in every aspect not just the pump, your fan belt also runs on it and in many ways prevents it from winging off and doing that anyway.

Think you need to look at your timing setup from scratch, or try moving the pump a bit, but the movement is limited.

The timing is way wrong ..... and retarded.

You may have been lucky not to have battered the valves into the pistons.

Sort the camshaft / injection pump belt timing PROPERLY from first principles.

CharlesY

I now have the answer....the loose crank bolt allowed play in the crank timing gear/sprocket, this then knackered the woodruff key. With the key worn away to half its normal thickness and the slot in the sprocket worn 2-3x as wide as normal, the timing was all over the place and constantly variable!!

I am now in the process of trying to pry the woodruff keys out the replace them.

Heat wd40 and a good drift & a big hammer. Not sure if you know how a woodruff key works. So excuse me if I'm teaching you to suck eggs. And for those who don't know. It's basically a not quite half round metal peg that sits in a groove in the shaft. when the pulley is fitted onto the shaft the protruding bit of the key stops the pulley from turning, apart from any distortion caused by movement there is nothing holding the key in the shaft and they should just flip out. But as you've discovered they can get very very jammed in the keyway. and need to be drifted out. Heating the shaft round the keyway may help. or if you have acan of freeze spray directing that onto the key will sometimes help. But ultimately the drift & hammer is usually the only thing that shifts em