disco1 wheel past arches question !

looking for a set of wheels and tyres that will come past the arches by around 2" minimum,going to be putting on a lift kit so shouldnt hit arch also got arch extensions to go on,
was wondering what wheels and tyre size to use and any other mods that will need doing along with it

gizgrey said:

looking for a set of wheels and tyres that will come past the arches by around 2" minimum,going to be putting on a lift kit so shouldnt hit arch also got arch extensions to go on,
was wondering what wheels and tyre size to use and any other mods that will need doing along with it

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does not matter how high a lift you go, all springs compress during articulation, it is then, they rub and cut the sheeet outa tyres & guards. your best option is a body lift if you wanta go bigger tyres, that way the centre of gravity is not affected anywhere as much, and your wheel arches get lifted up and clear from wheel when it articulates and bottoms out. Plus you dont have to mess with all of the other components that will have their geometry altered whit a spring lift.

ssmn1234 said:

does not matter how high a lift you go, all springs compress during articulation, it is then, they rub and cut the sheeet outa tyres & guards. your best option is a body lift if you wanta go bigger tyres, that way the centre of gravity is not affected anywhere as much, and your wheel arches get lifted up and clear from wheel when it articulates and bottoms out. Plus you dont have to mess with all of the other components that will have their geometry altered whit a spring lift.

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is the body lift straight forward to do,is it something that can get done at roadside or is it a garage and ramp job..quite like getting hands dirty with limited tools and knowledge

i found another post on the wheel issue i think it will be a set of 31s or sismillir with 10" modulars

gizgrey said:

is the body lift straight forward to do,is it something that can get done at roadside or is it a garage and ramp job..quite like getting hands dirty with limited tools and knowledge

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very easy, just a heap of spacers, bolts & nuts which you can make if you handy with tool or can buy in kit form. The only area to be careful is the seatbelt connections and depending on how high you go the steering shaft. A 1 1/2" lift lift will not bother the steering shaft and will easy cater for 31" tyres.

will attempt this where is the most reasonable place to grt a kit and any idea on how much i should pay for one..

gizgrey said:

looking for a set of wheels and tyres that will come past the arches by around 2" minimum,going to be putting on a lift kit so shouldnt hit arch also got arch extensions to go on,
was wondering what wheels and tyre size to use and any other mods that will need doing along with it

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When you say wheelarch extensions do you mean the type that require cutting the arches?

**** pic but:


This is how mine used to look tyres are BFG Mud Terrain 33/12.5/15 with the arches cut and extended arches with a +2" Suspension lift (no body lift) they only caught on "extreme articulation" and then it was only a nats dick never bothered me. They are on 15 x 10 modualrs so dont rub on full lock either.

Only prob with a body lift if you go down that route, you get a wierd looking gap at the front cuz the body is lifted but the bumper aint (cuz it attached to chassis), so you get gaps between the body and bumper.

Taxed said:

When you say wheelarch extensions do you mean the type that require cutting the arches?

**** pic but:

This is how mine used to look tyres are BFG Mud Terrain 33/12.5/15 with the arches cut and extended arches with a +2" Suspension lift (no body lift) they only caught on "extreme articulation" and then it was only a nats dick never bothered me. They are on 15 x 10 modualrs so dont rub on full lock either.

Only prob with a body lift if you go down that route, you get a wierd looking gap at the front cuz the body is lifted but the bumper aint (cuz it attached to chassis), so you get gaps between the body and bumper.

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every one has different views which is great, suspension lift will require a hec lot more money and will limit your articulation and also disturb your onroad handling, a body lift keeps the articulation Landies are famous for, has almost naught effect on centre of gravity for running side slopes and does not upset onroad handling that's why I think it is way to go.

ssmn1234 said:

every one has different views which is great, suspension lift will require a hec lot more money and will limit your articulation and also disturb your onroad handling, a body lift keeps the articulation Landies are famous for, has almost naught effect on centre of gravity for running side slopes and does not upset onroad handling that's why I think it is way to go.

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How exactly does a suspension lift LIMIT articulation??

Taxed said:

How exactly does a suspension lift LIMIT articulation??

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Almost all suspension lifts use longer springs, this inturn increase the upward pressure on the vehicle, and seeing as the vehicle weight is the same regardless there is a lot more resistance against flex. you can achieve suspension lift with spring spacers and retain original springs and achieve equal articulation as original, but you still gonna be up for altering a lot of other components.

ssmn1234 said:

Almost all suspension lifts use longer springs, this inturn increase the upward pressure on the vehicle, and seeing as the vehicle weight is the same regardless there is a lot more resistance against flex. you can achieve suspension lift with spring spacers and retain original springs and achieve equal articulation as original, but you still gonna be up for altering a lot of other components.

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So are you saying that spring spacers will give you better articualtion than a full suspension lift??

So on the challenge vehicles (which need maximum articulation) where we are going wrong is we acutally need a body lift and spring spacers for better articulation?

It Isnt cheap but if you're gonna do it, do it right, otherwise whats the point? Do it cheap, do it twice

Taxed said:

So are you saying that spring spacers will give you better articualtion than a full suspension lift??

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spring spacers will maintain the vehicles original suspension qualities and allows same articulation. Generally speaking, unless you want to spend a lot of money on specialised components you will not equal the standard articulation with suspension lift.

ssmn1234 said:

spring spacers will maintain the vehicles original suspension qualities and allows same articulation. Generally speaking, unless you want to spend a lot of money on specialised components you will not equal the standard articulation with suspension lift.

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Sorry dont agree! Spring spacers will still upset the centre of gravity somewhat and give the same minor issues with road handling as a suspension lift. One spring can only extend as far as the other compresses, spacers hamper this.

Taxed said:

Sorry dont agree! Spring spacers will still upset the centre of gravity somewhat and give the same minor issues with road handling as a suspension lift. One spring can only extend as far as the other compresses, spacers hamper this.

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Oh! the penny dropped. Go back to my first post, isn't that exactly what I said. "BODY LIFT IS BEST" :doh::doh::doh: Your idea "extend as far as the other compresses" is not how it works, it is a lot more complex than that.

ssmn1234 said:

Oh! the penny dropped. Go back to my first post, isn't that exactly what I said. "BODY LIFT IS BEST" :doh::doh::doh: Your idea "extend as far as the other compresses" is not how it works, it is a lot more complex than that.

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Wern't we discussing articulation not the full workings of the suspension, and im afraid with solid axles, one extends as far as the other compresses is pretty much as simple and as complicated as articulation gets, i personally wouldnt touch a body lift (unless of course you already have a suspension lift and wanna go nuts with some 35's/37's but thats a whole different story) its not as easy as it sounds imo especially if you are doing it on your garage floor, rusty bolts etc. and like i said before you are left with unsightly gaps to fill.

But with regards to spacers and body lifts, go look at any landrover enthusiast who is well into their green laneing/off roading you will find suspension lifts and not a spacer in sight.

A 2" lift kit from paddocks will set you back around £179 this will allow you to get anything up to 31.5" with room for articulation, nearer 32" will require a slight trim as shown in the "what tyres" sticky, 33" + would require a full arch cut using extended arches etc plus it looks cool

I've got 31's on 8" rims, 1" lift and angle grinder, easy .

ssmn1234 said:

Oh! the penny dropped. Go back to my first post, isn't that exactly what I said. "BODY LIFT IS BEST" :doh::doh::doh: Your idea "extend as far as the other compresses" is not how it works, it is a lot more complex than that.

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sorry but you couldnt be more wrong LMAO:doh:

you telling me this has less travel than standard?
just has a 2 inch lift

V8_Disco said:

you telling me this has less travel than standard?
just has a 2 inch lift

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Doesn't look anything out of ordinary to me.

Depends how you lift your vehicle you can fit a lift kits that will LIMIT you articulation. Also Dependant on how the "kit" lifts your vehicle? stronger springs, longer stronger srpings, longer spfter springs Shorter softer springs the list is endless. Also by using standard or even longer shocks you can limit your available articulation.

ITS SIMPLY NOT A CASE OF FITTING A "LIFT KIT" WITH 6 INCH LONGER SHOCKS. la la

Shock mounts will have to be moved to make any great gain above 2 inch longer shocks All of this WILL affect you handling of the vehicle whereas a 1 inch body lift mabe 2 at a push (done correctly) checking you have not cocked up the steering column angle of the dangle and or any pipes wires etc will enable you to fit bigger tyres without fecking up LR hard work.

Seen so many I got a 4 inch lift kit and the car cannot get over a small hump. Also Articulatyion IMO is by far over rated its good to show off but an you actually drive up and over stuff?
How much weight is on the wheel hanging low enough for you to keep traction to keep moving?

The RR looks pretty standard suspension setup. A RR classic pre 1990 I think has the best spring rates and articulates lovley standard. The one in pic may indeed have more than standard slightly but I personally wouldn't have spent alot of cash for that extra gain. Just me I'm Tight!

Suspension setup is a whole science and compromise. LR have done the hard work adding OME springs without knowing:
Spring rates,
Spring overall length,
Shock compressed length,
Shock extended length,
Shock mounting posistion how much higher or lower the shock sits,
The angle difference from standard and obviously,
The damping rate

If you bolt on a "lift kit" without knowing the above you are just messing about bolting on ****e hoping it works out. Remember if you move the shock mount inbound or forwards more of an angle to upright you will get more articulation assuming nothing else rubs but you will loose dampening effect. So if you move the mounts you need better quality/higher dampening ability shock.

Good luck you may end up with a great looking car on a ramp or for a posing picture but possibly a piece o ****e when it comes to driving over things and road handling. On the other hand you may be lucky and get everything right but I doubt it!

2 inch Kits are common and TBH the best setup I've seen is Procomp +2 shocks and RR classic red/white springs depending on engine other kit fitted. That has been the triallers choice for a long time and has been the best out of the bunch IMO.