ACE leak,help required

A

al9

New Member

Posts

9

• Mar 4, 2009

• #1

hi all need some advice on a leak with the ace on my car (TD5 1998).There was a leak a couple of months ago(fast leak) ie you filled it to the max and within a few miles it was below the minimum.took it to get repaired( replaced 2 pipes going into the ace box underneath the car) cost £350. now there is a leak not as severe ie when at max takes about 100miles to get to the minimum.I was wondering is there a product similiar to radweld that can block any slow leaks, dont fancy spending another £350. thanks

 

J

jobo

New Member

Posts

20

• Mar 4, 2009

• #2

get a glanding tool and do it yourself ?

 

A

al9

New Member

Posts

9

• Mar 4, 2009

• #3

thanks for reply, whats a glanding tool and what do u do with it?

 

E

eightinavee

Well-Known Member

Posts

3,956

Location

UK.

• Mar 5, 2009

• #4

Have you pinpointed where the leaks are ?

 

MartinK

New Member

Posts

433

Location

Edinburgh & Aviemore

• Mar 6, 2009

• #5

Here's some great info:
ACE Problem - Leaking fluid - Land Rover UK Forums
Have a look on the interweb for spare pipes, the part ~'s are in the area of RQB000400, RQB100290, RQB100310, RQG100041 - around £60 each inc vat - apparently hard to make yourself...(apparently)...

I have heard that two of them (fronts I think) are a bitch to fit, as LR install them to the bare chassis before the body goes on...

 

Last edited: Mar 6, 2009

E

eightinavee

Well-Known Member

Posts

3,956

Location

UK.

• Mar 6, 2009

• #6

MartinK said:

Here's some great info:
ACE Problem - Leaking fluid - Land Rover UK Forums
Have a look on the interweb for spare pipes, the part ~'s are in the area of RQB000400, RQB100290, RQB100310, RQG100041 - around £60 each inc vat - apparently hard to make yourself...(apparently)...

I have heard that two of them (fronts I think) are a bitch to fit, as LR install them to the bare chassis before the body goes on...

Click to expand...

Which is why you go to B+Q to buy 10mm compression fittings and cut the new pipes to fit as they often rust through at the valve block end - its then an easy job to replace the damaged bit with new leaving the rest of the old pipe in place.