Ongoing work

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Badger

Badger

Well-Known Member
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Location
Marldon, Devon
Rather than keep starting a thread about wtf this does or how do i do that and telling you what i did, thought i'd bung it all into one thread, nice n simples ;)

List of things to do/done ( in no particular order )


Replace Injectors ( done )
Remove standard fan and replace with an electric one
Replace front bumper
Try and panel bash front headlight surround ( done )
Replace fuel pump ( done )
Investigate and fix leak in PAS area ( see Fix Axle Leak )
Remove Steering guard ( done )
Fix/replace screen wash pump ( done )
Re do the dash with bits n bobs ( ongoing )
Fit 2 6x9 speakers in the rear somewhere ( done )
Fit a clock
Investigate and fix clunking sound on quick release of clutch ( done )
Replace Sump plug washer ( done )
Remove, investigate & fix oil leak from Timing cover ( awaiting parts )
Replace air filter ( done )
Replace track rod ends
Replace glow plugs ( done )
Fit a cup holder somewhere
Remove tow bar
Fix front Axle leak
Fit Spotlights to front Bullbar ( done )
Investigate and remedy front near side light problem
 
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First port of call today was to give the engine bay a good clean with the jet wash to get rid of the oil everywhere so i can investigate it abit better. Firstly i tried to locate a steam cleaner but apparently they're rare as rocking horse **** around here, oh well.

After standing in a BP garage with the bonnet off and giving the PAS area, sump, and generally all round the engine bay a good seeing to, i headed home.

A few miles later during the day the missus popped into Tescos for some bits i took the opportunity to check the PAS and see if i could locate the leak.

It wasn't the PAS that is leaking, it's the front Diff housing and from what i can gather it's a crack or a possible small hole of minute size as it's hard to see from looking in the engine bay.

I'll grab some pics tomorrow to show what i see, in the mean time, any fix's other than replacing it? If it's steel, can i weld a plate on it? Any other ' fixs ' i can do before needing to replace the whole axle?

Cheers
 
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Injector replacment:

Picked up 3 new injectors from Sypher at the weekend and got around to renewing them on Sunday.

It's a pretty straightforward job and didn't take long to do, some pics of new against old:



The smoke has now pretty much diminished after she warms up now, i can high rev in 3rd down hill without obscuring the rear window with smoke, but other than that she runs the same.

Cylinder number 2 ( from the front > back ) had alot of oil around the base of the injector which tells me there is an issue within that cylinder,
this could be a reason for the large amounts of pressure and smoke from oil filler cap, but that's for another day.
 
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Try and Panel Bash front Headlight surround:

This one was causing me some concern with the MOT looming up, basically the previous owner had hit a gate post which i knew about, but upon further inspection and fitting the bull bars, i began to realise that he must have hit it bloody hard!

The NS front area was on the ****, a crease was evident in line with the turn signal and side lights running downwards. The bumper is also quite bent out of shape, pics:







So how to fix this without replacing the NS wing area? I stripped the lights out and the surrounds, using a straight edge i measured the distance of the NS corner away from the straight edge and again on the OS. The NS edge was apprx 1.5" bent backwards and the OS had about 1/4" which is normal for the body.

My first idea was to bash the body work outwards from inside with a decent hammer so i could at least get the headlight housing in some form of straight line with the straight edge. This proved impossible with the screen washer bottle in the way, so time to remove that and that turned into an hours work which ended up with me grinding the bolt heads off from the wheel arch and replacing them when i came to fit it all back together.

With the washer bottle off, i proceeded, with the help of some 3x2, to give the front wing a pounding and thus push the body area that was bent in, back out again. It isn't the tidyiest job i'll tell you, but after leveling up with the straight edge i've pretty much managed to get the headlight housing back in line with the other one.

Will it be good enough to pass the MOT? i don't know tbh but i've done what i can for now.
In the future i will replace the wing, but it'll do for now.

 
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Helmetbolt said:
Investigate and fix clunking sound on quick release of clutch..

If it's from the back it could be your A-Frame ball joint.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/frame-balljoint-renewal-110342.html
Click to expand...

This is a possible reason for it, but it's a case of elimination at the moment.

I have the Landy in the garage on ramps atm to fix the front Diff leak, so had a good look around the front prop and attached areas whilst i had the space to do so.

The UJ's on the front prop are ' loose ', here's a vid: <EDIT> there will be a vid when my damn phone works ;)
 
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Investigate and fix clunking sound on quick release of clutch:

After a look underneath the front prop shaft UJ ( rear one ) was very loose, so time to pick up some new ones and get down to replacing them.

After a quick scoot through Buster's guide on ' how to ' i had a good idea on what to do but was minus a bench vice for the pressing in of the new bearings.

Removing the old ones was pretty easy with a hammer, socket and a pair of mole grips and i ended up using a lump of 3x2, a bottle jack and a door frame as a vice set up, it worked well!

Here's a few pics of the knackered UJ bearing and pile of dust left over after removing it....







The new UJ's are all in now and it runs so much smoother with gear changes, i've picked up another set to do the rear propshaft as well next week.
 
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So tonight's work involved fitting a pair of spots on the front, however will need to pop out tomorrow to pick up some cabling to wire them in ( pics to come ).

Also had a rummage around the dash at the wiring and wish i hadn't! Fookin wires everywhere not doing much, several were live and not capped off so sorted them out. Got the interior light wired upto a switch and got the oil pressure light working.

Also googled the CD player that came with it and was chuffed to find it has a 3.5mm input jack in the rear to plug me phone in for music.

Other work to do tomorrow is sort out the sound system abit better, going to re position the speakers in the front ( split the tweets from the bass ) to give a better sound and box in the rear speakers.

Also i'll be fitting a cup holder.....well oki i'll be using a piece of ply, but ya get the idea ;)
 
steve-o said:
Hey Paul, where abouts in Devon are you?

I'm in Bideford on the North coast.
Click to expand...

Torquay mate, about an hour away :D


Tonight i wired in the spots and found some more interesting wiring issues in the wings and sorted them out, i seriously need to grab a large box of spade & bullet connectors!

Firstly i removed the headlight shroud & side lights/flasher to get some access to the headlight set up, then removed the headlight as well. Using a multimeter i worked out which cable supplied the high beam so as to splice into it.


Using solder and heatshrink i then joined some extra cable to the spots and threaded them through the body work to the headlamp area and joined the live to the existing high beam cable and the earth to a existing one.





I did the same on the other side and checked all lighting for any defaults ( none! :D )




I also tidied up the garage ;)
 
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yes as the total amperage now going through your column stalk is too high and will burn out the contacts, much safer to also fit a fuse into the spot lamp circuit.
 
PaulWilde said:
Oki thanks for the tip, i shall remedy that today.
Click to expand...

Had a look around, a few sites give some idea what to use, but anyone have a recommendation for a pair of spots? Obvioulsy 12V, but what amperage should i be looking for, 30/40amp with a relevant fuse ( 10amp? )

I'm abit of a novice with electrics ;)
 
30amp will do the job, but use a relay with 2 spade teminals on number 87 as this makes it a safer way to wire to each spot lamp seperately, also means that you can use a lower current wire to each spot - solder the spade terminals onto the wires do not use the stupid blue crimp connectors
 
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