cowasaki
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OK having fitted central locking to the defender which activates with the alarm it seemed a shame to still have to open the safari door manually so here is how to sort that..
The parts you need are.....
1 x FUB500060, REAR END DOOR LOCK WITH CENTRAL LOCKING DEFENDER 2007 >
1 x FQF000040, BELL CRANK REAR END DOOR CDL
1 x FRN500020, SEAL DOOR LOCK COVER PLATE REAR DEF (not needed if removing lock)
1 x 2007> lock barrel (not needed if removing lock)
1 x Central locking motor with 8 inch bar
1 x small piece of sheet aluminium/steel
1 x large self tapping screw
2 x small self tapping screws
2 x rivets or screws.
We start with the standard rear door locking mechanism which needs to be removed. The old mechanism and new mechanisms have incompatible barrels so you will need to either do what I did and remove the locking option completely or buy a 2007> barrel.
The central locking bar comes out of the top of the locking mechanism and we need to translate this into a sideways one. We do this using the bell crank.
If you choose to remove the lock mechanism you need to cut 4mm off the end of the tube which would contain the barrel and then stick a blanking plate on the inside of the hole which would take the barrel. Now fit the locking mechanism (with the gasket) and the nuts/bolts but not completely tight. You can then use a bit of filler into the hole, smooth it down and paint over it.
Image of rear door with lock mechanism hidden away. Will be filling the indentation and spraying to match at weekend:
If you choose to use a lock then fit the barrel into the tube then fit the lock (with the gasket) and whilst it is still loose push the plastic cover into place before doing up the nuts and bolts but not tightly.
Sit inside the car and pull the door to then adjust the position of the lock so it collects the slider plate. Tighten the nuts/bolts.
Right now that we have the lock mechanism fitted attach the crank and move this to the door above the mechanism and stick a punch or screw driver through the central hole to mark the location of the hole. Drill the hole out with a small hole then a larger hole the same size as the square of the crank's center. Use a square file to make the hole square and screw the large screw into the centre of the crank.
Stick the bar through the bottom hole of the bell crank and leave hanging.... Take the central locking motor and line it up pointing to the bottom bell crank. Make a bracket as shown using the furthest screw hole of the motor only (as shown in photo). Mark the length of the bar so that it goes through the hole of the central locking motor into a U shape. You can also bend the bar to get the motor into the hole. Once it's working tighten the screw very tightly holding the motor to the bracket and carefully disassemble then fit the second screw.
The two wires go to the corresponding two wires of either of the front door locks....
I just have a small cover to make now for the bell housing using the same material as the rear door.
The parts you need are.....
1 x FUB500060, REAR END DOOR LOCK WITH CENTRAL LOCKING DEFENDER 2007 >
1 x FQF000040, BELL CRANK REAR END DOOR CDL
1 x FRN500020, SEAL DOOR LOCK COVER PLATE REAR DEF (not needed if removing lock)
1 x 2007> lock barrel (not needed if removing lock)
1 x Central locking motor with 8 inch bar
1 x small piece of sheet aluminium/steel
1 x large self tapping screw
2 x small self tapping screws
2 x rivets or screws.
We start with the standard rear door locking mechanism which needs to be removed. The old mechanism and new mechanisms have incompatible barrels so you will need to either do what I did and remove the locking option completely or buy a 2007> barrel.
The central locking bar comes out of the top of the locking mechanism and we need to translate this into a sideways one. We do this using the bell crank.
If you choose to remove the lock mechanism you need to cut 4mm off the end of the tube which would contain the barrel and then stick a blanking plate on the inside of the hole which would take the barrel. Now fit the locking mechanism (with the gasket) and the nuts/bolts but not completely tight. You can then use a bit of filler into the hole, smooth it down and paint over it.
Image of rear door with lock mechanism hidden away. Will be filling the indentation and spraying to match at weekend:
If you choose to use a lock then fit the barrel into the tube then fit the lock (with the gasket) and whilst it is still loose push the plastic cover into place before doing up the nuts and bolts but not tightly.
Sit inside the car and pull the door to then adjust the position of the lock so it collects the slider plate. Tighten the nuts/bolts.
Right now that we have the lock mechanism fitted attach the crank and move this to the door above the mechanism and stick a punch or screw driver through the central hole to mark the location of the hole. Drill the hole out with a small hole then a larger hole the same size as the square of the crank's center. Use a square file to make the hole square and screw the large screw into the centre of the crank.
Stick the bar through the bottom hole of the bell crank and leave hanging.... Take the central locking motor and line it up pointing to the bottom bell crank. Make a bracket as shown using the furthest screw hole of the motor only (as shown in photo). Mark the length of the bar so that it goes through the hole of the central locking motor into a U shape. You can also bend the bar to get the motor into the hole. Once it's working tighten the screw very tightly holding the motor to the bracket and carefully disassemble then fit the second screw.
The two wires go to the corresponding two wires of either of the front door locks....
I just have a small cover to make now for the bell housing using the same material as the rear door.
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