Alternator upgrade?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
pete_j

pete_j

Active Member
Posts
104
Location
Slough
Got to replace my A127 alternator on my 110.
Existing unit is 45A rating.

Any problems about fitting a 65A unit instead?
Same connectors used?
Anything else need upgrading to suit?

(I'm currently shopping around for a price - how can there be so many different part numbers for the same beast?)
Any suggestions for a good supplier?
 
I've been wondering the same thing, although I'll be getting mine from a scrap yard! When my last alternator went, I found one in my shed I'd taken off an old metro I used for 4 weeks as a stop gap then scrapped! It fitted straight on the landy (110 2.5 n/a Diesel), same bolts etc, and I've been using it for a year! Now I've fitted an electric winch I thought it might be time to upgrade - but the fact I fitted one from such a different vehicle and it's working perfectly sets me to thinking that I might be able to get a higher capacity one just as easily from some other sort of vehicle.
 
ford alternators worth a look. higher amp ratings come from motors with loads of elecy goodies. look at ford scorpio's, granadas etc. i was running a 100amp unit on my previous n/a 90.

good luck in the search, ebay is your best bet.

G
 
Griffdowg said:
ford alternators worth a look. higher amp ratings come from motors with loads of elecy goodies. look at ford scorpio's, granadas etc. i was running a 100amp unit on my previous n/a 90.
Click to expand...

Surely if I upgrade from 45A to 100A I'll need to upgrade the wiring too?
And will the Ford types use the same connections (three spade terminals in a connector, I think, rather than terminal studs)?
 
pete_j said:
Surely if I upgrade from 45A to 100A I'll need to upgrade the wiring too?
And will the Ford types use the same connections (three spade terminals in a connector, I think, rather than terminal studs)?
Click to expand...

You'll only subject your wiring to 100amps if your drawing 100amps the Alternator will only shove out as much as is needed. and as it shoves it all to the battery it's only going to be a short length of wiring that you need to change.
 
I'd wondered about that one. 45A --> 65A would be more than adequate improvement (we want to connect a camping fridge (8A) for occasional use rather than a winch!)

Also works out as cheap as the best price I've found so far.

At the very least I'll need to re-terminate the wires, as the 65A unit uses studs (and ring terminals) rather than the spades (?) fitted to the current 45A unit. (Any links to previous threads here describing the connections would be helpful, although I will search further when I have more time)

Will I still need to replace the wires for a 45A-->65A change? Anyone know what the existing wires are rated at?
 
I replaced my 2.5TD with a 200TDi complete with the 200's alternator. The wiring is holding up fine, so I wouldn't worry about the wiring unless the insulation has cracked or melted.
 
I put a disco 300 in mine, replacing the NA. To wire the new studded alt in place of the bladed one, as follows:

Thw two brown wires which go to the larger of the two spades, connect them together to the larger stud.

Connect the thinner remaining wire to the D+ (i think) terminal - the one that is left that isn't marked W.

Thats it! Im using the standard wiring from my 45 amp alty, with what i think is a 100 amp one, no problems so far. May repalce it anyway soon though, as the wires are not in the best of nick currently, cos they are simply old.
 
pete_j said:
At the very least I'll need to re-terminate the wires, as the 65A unit uses studs (and ring terminals) rather than the spades (?) fitted to the current 45A unit. (Any links to previous threads here describing the connections would be helpful, although I will search further when I have more time)
Click to expand...

Are you sure that the main output connector is on a spade?

The 45/65 would be a direct replacement no wiring issues.

If your worried about wiring, then take a second dedicated line to your fridge/other high current devices. This way the extra demand is not even going via the battery/alt cable.

The vehicle is not suddenly going to draw an extra 20amps through the old cabling because you have fitted an uprated alt.
 
I am using an 80A heavy duty alternator from a Range Rover classic. Cost a tenner from a local scrappie. You will find rangies that have electrics seats and all the other goodies :) Bolted in the exact right place and can use the standard belt too (thats on my Series landie though...but at a guess your defenders probably mount the same)
 
discomania said:
Are you sure that the main output connector is on a spade?
Click to expand...

Not at all sure! The present alternator has some kind of connector on the back. There is a little wire spring clip that holds a plastic cover on, and the 3? wires disappear into this. I had no reason to remove the wires when attempting to replace the regulator (see separate thread!) and as the 'connector' didn't want to budge (and it was raining) I decided to leave the wires in place. (Now I wish I'd looked more closely!!)

It's a bit tricky seeing what is on the back of the alternator when it's still in the vehicle - I was using a torch and an inspection mirror. What I do know is that it does not use studs for connections like the 65A replacement does.

discomania said:
The 45/65 would be a direct replacement no wiring issues.
Click to expand...

Direct mechanical replacement, agreed, but the wiring is slightly different (see above).

Am I going to be able to get away with using standard 'yellow' crimp terminals or will I need something more beefy - in which case, how do you crimp them? (I have the usual tool for crimping red/blue/yellow terminals.)

discomania said:
If your worried about wiring, then take a second dedicated line to your fridge/other high current devices. This way the extra demand is not even going via the battery/alt cable.
Click to expand...

For now I'm going to leave it 'as is'. A project for next year (?) is to fit a split-charge system for a second battery, and I'll tackle this at the same time.

discomania said:
The vehicle is not suddenly going to draw an extra 20amps through the old cabling because you have fitted an uprated alt.
Click to expand...

I'm sure I realise this, it just seems 'wrong' to be fitting a more powerful unit without ensuring its connections can cope.
 
pete_j said:
Not at all sure! The present alternator has some kind of connector on the back. There is a little wire spring clip that holds a plastic cover on, and the 3? wires disappear into this. I had no reason to remove the wires when attempting to replace the regulator (see separate thread!) and as the 'connector' didn't want to budge (and it was raining) I decided to leave the wires in place. (Now I wish I'd looked more closely!!)

Yes, the main feed is on a spade, but it is slit between two.

It's a bit tricky seeing what is on the back of the alternator when it's still in the vehicle - I was using a torch and an inspection mirror. What I do know is that it does not use studs for connections like the 65A replacement does.



Direct mechanical replacement, agreed, but the wiring is slightly different (see above).

Am I going to be able to get away with using standard 'yellow' crimp terminals or will I need something more beefy - in which case, how do you crimp them? (I have the usual tool for crimping red/blue/yellow terminals.)

Yellow ones should be fine, crimp them well, and use the bigger ones.


For now I'm going to leave it 'as is'. A project for next year (?) is to fit a split-charge system for a second battery, and I'll tackle this at the same time.



I'm sure I realise this, it just seems 'wrong' to be fitting a more powerful unit without ensuring its connections can cope.
Click to expand...

I know how you feel about that, but unless you are really hammering the 'lectrics, it should be fine.
 
boydy1989 said:
mini ones fit also - this is leyland we are talking about, all their cars were made from whatever was left in the parts bin!
Click to expand...


ah that's handy
The alternator in my NA has just gone and have just remembered I still have the 75A alternator that I was going to put in my mini before someone reversed at speed into my front end;) in the snow, writing it off - if ya get what i mean
 
Direct mechanical replacement, agreed, but the wiring is slightly different (see above).

Sorry should have elaborated on that, mechanicaly it should fit right in, minus the connectors the wiring will be fine too - I should have said the cabling.
 
This (65 amp) beastie was mentioned earlier in the thread...
discomania said:
Get a Lucas A127 65Amp

Lucas A127 Alternator (Perkins, Nissan Primera,kit car) on eBay, also, Kit Car Parts, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 12-Sep-08 13:03:01 BST)
Click to expand...

(this listing has finished, but it's a stock item for the seller).

I was just on the point of pressing 'Buy Now' when I noticed the mountings. The above example has the adjustment mounting at 180deg to the main mounting bolts, but I am fairly sure that the LR type has the adjustment at 90deg (like this one: LUCAS A127 ALTERNATOR on eBay, also, Other Car Parts, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 10-Oct-08 12:53:47 BST)), and hence the two parts are not even mechanically interchangeable.:(

(Annoyingly, that 55A unit is £10 more than the 65A unit...)

I didn't have time over the weekend to take the Landy apart to check whether I had remembered correctly... Am I going barmy, or what? :confused:

PJ
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Alternator problems
Replies
5
Views
910
Roger195
R
BarcombeBoy
Freelander 1: audio upgrade advice
Replies
19
Views
2K
Nodge68
Nodge68
dag019
A question of gearboxes
Replies
16
Views
1K
Skolmate
Skolmate
G
48V Alternator run off the PTO to supply a big battery bank and inverter?
Replies
5
Views
1K
SteveMarquis
SteveMarquis
O
Hankook, Kumho, Vredestein, or Yokohama summer 16"s?
Replies
3
Views
763
Graculus
Graculus
Back
Top