Valve adjustment 300Tdi

Hi just a couple of brief questions.

When adjusting or checking the clearances of the valves on a Discovery 300
Tdi, should the engine be warm/hot or cold?

Second question, is the recommended gap .020mm on both inlet and exhaust
valves?

I have serviced the engine before, oil, filters, et al, but never done the
valves, so it's new territory for me.....

Thanks in advance for any help....

1. Rotate crankshaft until No.8 valve (counting from
front of engine) is fully open.
2. Using a 0,20 mm (0.008 in) feeler gauge adjust
clearance of No.1 valve.
3. Slacken locknut and turn adjusting screw
clockwise to reduce clearance and
anti-clockwise to increase clearance. Tighten
locknut to 16 Nm (12 lbf/ft).
4. Repeat operation for remaining tappets in the
following sequence:
No.3 tappet with No.6 valve fully open.
No.5 tappet with No.4 valve fully open.
No.2 tappet with No.7 valve fully open.
No.8 tappet with No.1 valve fully open.
No.6 tappet with No.3 valve fully open.
No.4 tappet with No.5 valve fully open.
No.7 tappet with No.2 valve fully open.
5. On completion, recheck clearances and adjust
as necessary.

Couldn't find any reference to temp so I assume cold.





On Sun, 22 Aug 2004 14:31:13 +0100, "Mark Fry" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Hi just a couple of brief questions.
>
>When adjusting or checking the clearances of the valves on a Discovery 300
>Tdi, should the engine be warm/hot or cold?
>
>Second question, is the recommended gap .020mm on both inlet and exhaust
>valves?
>
>I have serviced the engine before, oil, filters, et al, but never done the
>valves, so it's new territory for me.....
>
>Thanks in advance for any help....
>

On or around Mon, 23 Aug 2004 13:47:11 GMT, [email protected]
enlightened us thusly:

>
>Couldn't find any reference to temp so I assume cold.
>

I've always done it cold.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"The breezy call of incense-breathing Morn, The swallow twittering
from the strawbuilt shed, The cock's shrill clarion, or the echoing
horn, No more shall rouse them from their lowly bed."
Thomas Gray, Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard.

to adjust tappet clearance the easiest way is to do it when on the back of the
cam and then you just go through the firing order one cylinder after the other
and adjust both intake and exhaust valves at same time on each cylinder .

if you get each cyl one after the other on the firing stroke , ie when NONE
OF THE PAIR OF VALVES ARE ROCKING , then you can adjust both valves on that
cylinder and then all you need is to go to next cylinder in the firing order
and adjust that pair of valves and so forth .


its so easy , if the valves are rocking then you have to turn the engine over
until both valves are back up and slack and neither of them rock when you
turn engine over for a bit after.
this then places the valves on the back of the cam where there is clearance
for the valves to remain shut so the engine can fire .
you only need to look at tdc mark on the harmonic damper on the crankshaft [
if it has one ] to determine the top dead centre position and then if the
valves are rocking at this point just rotate the engine over until you are at
the point where the valves dont rock .

you might think this sounds difficult but if you turn the engine over slowly a
few times whilst watching the rocker arms moving youll see the 2 things i
mean and can determine easily which stroke you are on and when to adjust the
tappets .

the beauty of this way of doing it is that you can go through progressive
cylinders and adjust them according to the the firing order and adjust each
cylinder completely each time .

you can just start at any cylinder and go through them all one at a time , or
pick out any one cylinder to do although this way will require you rotating
the crank a fair few times ).

On or around 23 Aug 2004 22:01:50 GMT, [email protected] (M0bcg) enlightened us
thusly:

>the beauty of this way of doing it is that you can go through progressive
>cylinders and adjust them according to the the firing order and adjust each
>cylinder completely each time .

while I go along with what you say, the sequence in the HBoL as reproduced
by someone in here recently works well on a TDi, and requires (IIRC) just 2
turns of the crank after you get to a starting point. Obviously, you can
start mid-sequence, if you want, rather than starting at number 1.

and another tip for the 300TDi:

turn the engine by using a suitable socket (24mm, ISTR) and ratchet on the
nut on the front of the alternator. It's far easier to get to.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Festina Lente" (Hasten slowly) Suetonius (c.70-c.140) Augustus, 25

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around 23 Aug 2004 22:01:50 GMT, [email protected] (M0bcg) enlightened
us
> thusly:
>
> >the beauty of this way of doing it is that you can go through progressive
> >cylinders and adjust them according to the the firing order and adjust
each
> >cylinder completely each time .
>
> while I go along with what you say, the sequence in the HBoL as reproduced
> by someone in here recently works well on a TDi, and requires (IIRC) just
2
> turns of the crank after you get to a starting point. Obviously, you can
> start mid-sequence, if you want, rather than starting at number 1.
>
> and another tip for the 300TDi:
>
> turn the engine by using a suitable socket (24mm, ISTR) and ratchet on the
> nut on the front of the alternator. It's far easier to get to.
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
> "Festina Lente" (Hasten slowly) Suetonius (c.70-c.140) Augustus, 25

Thanks to all who replied I have checked on the feeler gauges, they are
imperial / metric type, so the closest I could get to the required .20, was
..206 which I hope will be fine, I also replaced all of the valve cover caps
because 1 had worn totally away. Everything seems fine at the moment, well
it started and ran ok and the obliglitory puff of smoke at start-up was
absent, which I hope is a good sign.

Anyway thanks again.

>> On or around 23 Aug 2004 22:01:50 GMT, [email protected] (M0bcg) enlightened
>us
>> thusly:

>> while I go along with what you say, the sequence in the HBoL as reproduced
>> by someone in here recently works well on a TDi, and requires (IIRC) just
>2
>> turns of the crank after you get to a starting point. Obviously, you can
>> start mid-sequence, if you want, rather than starting at number 1.

Not from the HBoL though straight from the Land Rover manual.

On or around Tue, 24 Aug 2004 22:39:26 GMT, [email protected]
enlightened us thusly:

>
>>> On or around 23 Aug 2004 22:01:50 GMT, [email protected] (M0bcg) enlightened
>>us
>>> thusly:
>
>>> while I go along with what you say, the sequence in the HBoL as reproduced
>>> by someone in here recently works well on a TDi, and requires (IIRC) just
>>2
>>> turns of the crank after you get to a starting point. Obviously, you can
>>> start mid-sequence, if you want, rather than starting at number 1.
>
>Not from the HBoL though straight from the Land Rover manual.

It's in the HBoL as well, word-for-word. often the case for such things.

oh and BTW, those metric/imperial feeler gauges... they're imperial ones
with metric writing on. how else do you get a .635mm one? Seriously, look
at 'em in inches, they are (within conversion rounding limits, the same as
the imperial ones.

25, 15, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 3, 2, 1½ IIRC, in thou, from memory.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Satisfying: Satisfy your inner child by eating ten tubes of Smarties
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.