General towing question - car trailer nose weight

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Daze

Daze

Member
Posts
82
Hey guys,

Potential newbie question here, I've never done any towing before in my life (apart from taking my licence a few weeks ago), so excuse this question as it could well be completely obvious. Done loads of searching, and cannot find a correct answer.

Anyway, nose weight - I understand this after doing some reading to be the weight of hitch once the trailer/caravan is loaded. Measure by a bit of wood & some old bathroom scales, or a fancy nose weight gauge.

I also understand if I have a car trailer which I want to load a car onto the back of, it should be done whilst hitched to the tow vehicle, which defiantly makes sense to me.

My question is how do I go about measuring nose weight after the car is loaded onto the trailer? My guess would be the following procedure

1, Tow vehicle hitched to trailer
2, Load car onto trailer
3, Lower jockey wheel & unhitch from tow vehicle
4, Move tow vehicle a few feet forward
5, Do measuring of nose weight & re-position car on trailer if needed
6, Move tow vehicle back, re-hitch

Is this correct? Would the jockey wheel not buckle in this situation? What I'm mainly unsure about is if the jockey wheel could support the trailer with the car on it, and potentially moving about a bit too, whilst I measure nose weight?

As I said, spent most of yesterday evening searching everywhere and couldn't find a proper answer to this!

Hopefully someone can help! Thanks :D
 
Like, probably, most I just go by eye the back of the car should be just a little lower than normal but not on the bump stops. If you want to you can lift the hitch off the ball and guess the weight, obviously if you can't lift it off it is too heavy :rolleyes:
Hitch weights are only a guide especially with something like a landy where the distance from hitch to axle (most important) can vary by a foot or two.
 
Hm, Ok fair enough. That comes down to my other question then, as the back of my Disco will be loaded with tools & spares with as much as I can fit in, so I suspect around 600kg of weight in the back - without the trailer hitched on!

I guess I can see how much the Disco is lowered by at the back before hitching up, then see the drop by eye after I hitch? If its a LOT then re-position load, if not then OK?
 
I'd probably do it by eye - put the centre of the car just behind the trailer axle(s) (since more of the unladen weight is at the front), and see how the Rover dips. Of course, if your D2 is on air it won't dip, which is the danger - too much nose weight and you over stress the air bags.
 
srtgray said:
I'd probably do it by eye - put the centre of the car just behind the trailer axle(s) (since more of the unladen weight is at the front), and see how the Rover dips. Of course, if your D2 is on air it won't dip, which is the danger - too much nose weight and you over stress the air bags.
Click to expand...
Cool, OK will do. My Disco is a D1 300tdi, non air bag

Also the trailer I am hiring for the job is a triple axle, so I guess the effect of nose weight forward/back is reduced as I can spread the weight more-so than on a single or twin axle?
 
You need to think about how you load the car as well. All that weight behind the axle plus a trailer hitched will make the front end light. Then you risk losing steering control.

As far as your trailer is concerned you want it well balanced. The majority of the weight over the axle, with a slight weight towards the front. Never have it so the hitch is pulling up on the ball and don't have too much weight on the ball. If you have too much weight behind the trailer axle then the combination will snake, and trust me that is not fun!

Too be honest if you can't use the jockey wheel for risk of it distorting then the trailer is badly missloaded. So there should be no reason why you can't use a nose weight gauge once laden.
 
This is how mine was last loaded and it towed very nicely. That car has 50 50 weight distribution so had it just slightly in front of centre. Think about the load cars weight distribution it will make a difference to how you want it on the trailer.

10262053_10152529510630739_5738981007289339245_n.jpg


Another thing to bear in mind is strapping down. VOSA require you to use bonafide wheel straps. On each side of the car one must be ratchet forward, the other ratchet behind. They also want you to tie excess strap through the ratchet handle so that it cannot lift.
 
The jockey wheel will lift alot of weight. You'll most likely not be able to turn the handle before it callapses. Although this isnt likely on a three axle trailer with a car on.
 
I don't have the luxury of a jockey wheel.......but its a sankey so I go with as long as I can lift the front end by hand or easily enough with a bit of help

Last time I picked up an engine I cocked this one up but it was too late to sort it and on HD springs I didn't notice
 
For trouble-free and relaxed towing it is essential that the nose weight is correct. Too heavy and it will stress the rear end too much especially if you have 600kgs of tools and bits in the boot. It will also make the front end of the Disco feel very light and unhappy.

Too light a nose weight means the trailer will be tail-heavy and unstable.

Do what you said in your first post and take your time. Don't forget to put plenty of air in rear tyres.

BTW have you lifted the carpet and foam mat to check the condition of the boot floor? You don't want all your stuff falling through and ending up on the road !

Cheers
Dave
 
goonarmy said:
The jockey wheel will lift alot of weight. You'll most likely not be able to turn the handle before it callapses. Although this isnt likely on a three axle trailer with a car on.
Click to expand...
Great, yeah that's what I thought it would do as well.

200tdi ayre said:
I akways do it by eye and feel. Centre of mass of object on trailer just infront of the centrr of the trailer.

DW about the jockey wheel collapsing.
Click to expand...
Sweet, will bear that in mind. Nice one :)

thebiglad said:
For trouble-free and relaxed towing it is essential that the nose weight is correct. Too heavy and it will stress the rear end too much especially if you have 600kgs of tools and bits in the boot. It will also make the front end of the Disco feel very light and unhappy.

Too light a nose weight means the trailer will be tail-heavy and unstable.

Do what you said in your first post and take your time. Don't forget to put plenty of air in rear tyres.

BTW have you lifted the carpet and foam mat to check the condition of the boot floor? You don't want all your stuff falling through and ending up on the road !

Cheers
Dave
Click to expand...
Indeed, this is what I've read elsewhere. Thanks for the info, and I will certainly up the rear tyre pressures before setting off too.

RE boot floor, haha yes! I have already removed the boot carpet & mat and had a look around. Its not in perfect condition, but it seems solid enough.

After reading some of these replies I will aim to load the really heavy items low down in the Disco & as far forward as possible, tool boxes, bags & trolley jack can be loaded behind the front seats, as I'm removing the rear seats completely for extra space :)
 
Thor1950 said:
Make sure your cooling system is 100%. You will find out very quick if you have a dodgy cooling system
Click to expand...
So I've read elsewhere too! Not sure what else I can check on my car to find out if I have or haven't got a good cooling system!? Coolant has been flushed, absolutely zero leaks, belt replaced less than 6 months ago, spare belt going with me anyway. She hasn't missed a beat since I've owned her, even in this hot weather we have down South! :smokin:
 
What's the fins like on your rad? Mine was proper bad and overheated when towing. Changed the rad and stat and it now runs much cooler. No overheating when towing now.
 
pauldaf44 said:
What's the fins like on your rad? Mine was proper bad and overheated when towing. Changed the rad and stat and it now runs much cooler. No overheating when towing now.
Click to expand...
Good point actually, something that I haven't checked. Just popped out to have a look, quite tricky to get photos of, but this is from the engine-side between fan blades

wj5rybG.jpg


And this is from the front looking up between grille slats

aCFM7Cj.jpg


Looks decent to me? I'll bring a spare thermostat with me as part of my spares box :cool:
 
While you are checking things take look at the recommended tow ball height for the trailer. And if you have adjustable hitch alter it to suit. You don't want trailer travelling nose up (or down). You also want load spread evenly if possible on trailer axles.
 
With a tri axel there should be no issues at all whats more important is make sure your tow bar is set at the hight so your towing nose up/down and just always try & load up even make sure your loads strapped on nice and your tyres are all pumped up even and you should be fine

Good luck
 
In addition to all the good advice so far, don't forget that:-
That is a pretty big train you will be driving, so acceleration and braking will be much worse,
It is wider than you are used to so watch those left turns,
Nobody will give you an inch more than they will give a cyclist.
Take your time and a camera (we like piccys)
MOST IMPORTANT MAKE SURE YOU CAN CONTACT LZIR IF NEEDED
 
and finally.................................... make sure your insurance covers the trailer.

Over here the rules are a bit more strict I think and any trailer over 750 kgs gross weight has it's own log book and insurance - it's treated as a separate vehicle which just happens to be attached to the back of a car.


Cheers and the very best of luck although I know you won't need it, you've got everything covered now,

Dave
 
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