Wolf/Military doors on a defender

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payydg

payydg

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Aberdeenshire
My understanding is if you want slide (non wind windows) fitted to a defender with out much fettling you need the wolf/military doors?

I fancy wasting my money on something else i don't really need.

Can you buy the door bottoms for a series and then use military door tops? Or have I got the wrong end of the stick, again.
 
I think you will need the later series doors for the anti burst locks.
Early 110's had them with the military type two sliding windows top.
John Craddock site may be worth a check.
I am sure someone who has done this will be along.
 
Yeah later series lowers then army defender aluminium tops - these can be identified as the window slants rather than straight up and down like the sliding windows on a series.

IIRC the locks can be changed over to the antiburst ones regardless
 
payydg said:
I fancy wasting my money on something else i don't really need.
Click to expand...

do not agree with that at all, is was one of the best mods I did to mine. It gives you a lot more space in the cab as the door becomes very thin and you lose the door card and large gap for the window to drop onto.
As said above You either need late Model series door bottoms to fit anti burst locks or early model series door bottoms with the series door locks and strikers. Also bear in mind that for either type of door bottom you will need the series check straps. All of the parts are available fairly cheaply second hand or new. When I did mine I bought a pair of good second hand series doors which came with locks and then bought the striker to match. I was a skint student at the time and had just spent all my money on the expensive door tops! This means I have the old fashioned series door locks on mine rather than antiburst. I have since replaced the bottoms with new but everything else on mine is the same as a series.
 
v8250 said:
https://www.paintmanpanels.co.uk/product-category/series-3/series-3-door-tops/

Proper quality door tops are readily available from Paintman Panels then pick up glass from one of the MOD suppliers...not necessarily Craddocks as they'll charge an arm and a leg. A quick google search will help https://pablanchard.co.uk/Front-Gla...itary-Style-Genuine-MTC6266-CUB102680-MWC4718

https://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/partslist?veh=defender&sec=rpan&sub_sec=doors
Click to expand...

Some great links thanks. My understanding is the series door tops don't really fit defender
 
dag019 said:
do not agree with that at all, is was one of the best mods I did to mine. It gives you a lot more space in the cab as the door becomes very thin and you lose the door card and large gap for the window to drop onto.
As said above You either need late Model series door bottoms to fit anti burst locks or early model series door bottoms with the series door locks and strikers. Also bear in mind that for either type of door bottom you will need the series check straps. All of the parts are available fairly cheaply second hand or new. When I did mine I bought a pair of good second hand series doors which came with locks and then bought the striker to match. I was a skint student at the time and had just spent all my money on the expensive door tops! This means I have the old fashioned series door locks on mine rather than antiburst. I have since replaced the bottoms with new but everything else on mine is the same as a series.
Click to expand...

That is just the motivation I need. I did like the idea of thinner door cards and maybe fitting a mud stuff card and cargo net
 
I haven't, just std flat chipboard and vinyl covering. This week took cards off, threw away crusty old screws, removed vinyl and gave doors a thorough clean and inner frame a thorough soaking of Dinitrol. Then sound proofed doors with inners with sound deadening material. Then re-spray glued the vinyl and lined the rear of cards with noise suppression foam. It's make an amazing difference to noise resonance/levels...all with new screws. Plus completed under seats, cubby box, both footwells and gearbox tunnel. Refurb the battery box inner..:cool:
 
v8250 said:
I haven't, just std flat chipboard and vinyl covering. This week took cards off, threw away crusty old screws, removed vinyl and gave doors a thorough clean and inner frame a thorough soaking of Dinitrol. Then sound proofed doors with inners with sound deadening material. Then re-spray glued the vinyl and lined the rear of cards with noise suppression foam. It's make an amazing difference to noise resonance/levels...all with new screws. Plus completed under seats, cubby box, both footwells and gearbox tunnel. Refurb the battery box inner..:cool:
Click to expand...
That all sounds like far too much effort. I just have the plain door, no door card or sound proofing And it gives A nice hum as you drive along and the skin vibrates like a drum.
 
dag019 said:
That all sounds like far too much effort. I just have the plain door, no door card or sound proofing And it gives A nice hum as you drive along and the skin vibrates like a drum.
Click to expand...

Haha yeah that sounds like lots of effort to me aswell :D

I stuck a 4 inch square of dynamat in the middle of the door and it has stopped the hum, then half a dozen stainless self tappets to hold the canvas panel on and done!

I needed to keep the middle of the seats clear for the dog bed!
 
payydg said:
Some great links thanks. My understanding is the series door tops don't really fit defender
Click to expand...
Series door tops will fit the Defender, but they rot for fun. The proper 90/110 door tops are a million times more robust, they are solid alloy, but cost a fortune.
Go for anti-burst door locks, they are a lot safer and type-approved for the 90/110.
 
Rougharse Racing said:
Series door tops will fit the Defender, but they rot for fun. The proper 90/110 door tops are a million times more robust, they are solid alloy, but cost a fortune.
Go for anti-burst door locks, they are a lot safer and type-approved for the 90/110.
Click to expand...

I didn’t think they were a very good fit? Obviously can make anything fit anything but I heard the weren’t a great option
 
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