Wiring spot lights - with a twist.

I have a 70watt LED light bar on my winch bumper.

I am going to fit a 52" curved flood/spot combo light bar on my roof.

I want the ability to have them independantly switched on the dash perhaps on 2 x 3 way switch.(one for each lamp)

Postiion 1 - they are off totally. MY regular lights work as normal. off the stalk - as when the lights are going on and off loads on the country roads its not fair to blind the other users - how ever i live in **** stick no where and the roads are dark and deer littered amongst other things at 5am in the morning going to work.

Postiion 2 - When i go to main beam which ever light is flicked ot position 2 comes on . - ie in heavy fog i can turn off my roof mounted bar and just have the bumper light on.

Position 3 - either light comes on independantly of the vehicle headlights.

I have my headlights wired up through a boomslang relay loom if it makes any odds.

Would i be right in thinking that i can do this with some correct gauge wire and 2x3 way switches - using a 12v feed from my boomslang on the Main beam side to feed position 2. and a fresh fused 12v feed from my battery to feed position 3. and position 1 is just dead all the time and they can all earth to the bulkhead earth ? Electric design aint my hot point - i can make it work on the job but i suck at the theory.

yes... yes you can...

That will work, but I'd not use the +12v from the Boomslang to power (whichever) directly. Use it to operate a relay which switches +12v from your new battery connection instead. Two reasons really - I prefer relays on larger loads, and although it's not huge etc. Secondly, I'd prefer to leave the boomslang just supplying what it's meant to. No harm in nicking a few miiliamps to act as the trigger though.

Beaten to it.

ive started sketching it but it was hurting my head figuring it out...

id get it all laid out in front of you and just do it

Looks good. Next step is a double relay (or two singles) operated from the switch output, which will switch a (fused) battery feed to either or both of your lighting bars. That will keep the current load on your switch low, and prevent burnout.

Quite right, didn't finish it to show that bit. My excuse was severe non-toothache (I had one out yesterday and was doing anything I could to avoid thinking about the pain, including drawing circuits).