Disco 1 Wide angle prop knuckles fouling

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Tomushh

Tomushh

Active Member
Posts
220
Location
Kent
So after fitting my 6 degree castor corrected radius arms my wide angle propshaft is now fouling on the knuckles where it goes onto the transfer box. I have a 4 inch lift.

Obviously the angle change on the axle has made the prop angle down further to a point where it's now catching as it rotates (Can see the marks on the I guess you would call it flange?) They're only slight but you notice it a lot when driving. I haven't gone far nor fast to cause any damage to the UJ yet.

Not sure how to go about this, can anyone offer any advice on what to do? Obviously one of them is a double cardan prop but they're upwards of £400 and I can't justify that yet.

Many thanks in advance.
 
I can't lesson the angle as the castor angle is now correct, only way would be to lower the car a bit but then castor angle changes back the other way.

Double cardan is what I was thinking but they're upwards of 400 quid :/
 
If it’s the rear you need to fit adjustable trailing arms then the diff flange can be pointed toward the transfer box so eliviating the problem.
If it’s the front then fit the double cardon
 
brian47 said:
And it has grease nipples on the needle bearing cups in the double cardan joint.
Click to expand...
I put nipples in mine when I rebuilt it and normal ones with the nipples between the cups fitted fine (makes no sense why they aren't factory fit) normal angle though probably need them there on the cup for the ops kind of angle
 
alexc2701 said:
I put nipples in mine when I rebuilt it and normal ones with the nipples between the cups fitted fine (makes no sense why they aren't factory fit) normal angle though probably need them there on the cup for the ops kind of angle
Click to expand...
The original ones were deemed to be "greased for life" ...... How long that life is depends on how often the joint is gre .... Oh! hang on .....
 
brian47 said:
The original ones were deemed to be "greased for life" ...... How long that life is depends on how often the joint is gre .... Oh! hang on .....
Click to expand...
It's almost like someone did the front uj then got very distracted...
18 years if mine is a judge! New ones won't last as long the seals were crap on the fleabay ones. Went for the stronger ones too. The main part was good just the seals that sucked. Should be okay if I remember they're greaseable now...
 
alexc2701 said:
It's almost like someone did the front uj then got very distracted...
18 years if mine is a judge! New ones won't last as long the seals were crap on the fleabay ones. Went for the stronger ones too. The main part was good just the seals that sucked. Should be okay if I remember they're greaseable now...
Click to expand...
I s'pose that being somewhat long in the tooth, I'm fortunate that I can afford to get the Disco serviced by the garage when they do my MoT.
I just make sure that I send a list up to them with the car so they know what I want done such as just the engine oil and filters done or all fluids, etc. I also tell them to grease the prop shafts at the same time.
I also keep a list (in Excel) on the PC of what gets done, when and at what mileage so it's easy for me to look back and see when a job was last done.
You'll find that there are now four grease points on the front prop shaft and two on the rear one.
 
I Iike doing the bits myself, saves tons of moolar too and learn new things!
Also forget some things.... :p
Excel idea is smart but I'd never remember to update it after!
It makes sense to have a nipple on each cup doesn't always seem to want to travel to every one :D
 
Yeah heard of use of a disco 2 propshaft, think you have to change the transfer box flange too. luckily I've got a D2 at the yard that's worse for wear so might take it off and have a go.

As John says, not sure how long it will last as have heard that they dont but if it gets me out of trouble for a while it'll do until I can save for a raptor4x4 or bailey morris one (i think that's the names)
 
Tomushh said:
Yeah heard of use of a disco 2 propshaft, think you have to change the transfer box flange too. luckily I've got a D2 at the yard that's worse for wear so might take it off and have a go.

As John says, not sure how long it will last as have heard that they dont but if it gets me out of trouble for a while it'll do until I can save for a raptor4x4 or bailey morris one (i think that's the names)
Click to expand...
If your buying one get the Glyn Lewis one.
 
I might do eventually, just can't justify spending that much on a propshaft! Saving up for some 33's and then I hit this obstacle it's a bit annoying!
 
I’ve a set of 5 255/85/16 maxxis bighorn mud tyres like new fitted to boost alloys, there 33”
If your interested as I’ve 37’s on now
 
To be totally honest, two questions come to mind here; why is a four inch lift deemed necessary on this Disco and secondly, why have such issues come as such a surprise?
I understand that a four inch lift might be undertaken for no other reason than "a project", but I fail to see any valid improvement in performance or handling by installing a lift greater than about two inches. Without addressing wheel diameters, the only "improvement" will be to the entry and exit angles, the actual ground clearance will still remain as a function of the height of the differential cases above the ground.
Had this lift project been properly researched including not just what would need to be done but also how to do it and more importantly the effects of such modifications on the behaviour and handling of the vehicle beforehand then maybe the problems could have been foreseen and remedied before they actually came about.
There again, perhaps the car park at the "Bluewater" might require a vehicle with such extravagant/aggressive modifications.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/lifting-a-d2-properly.300573/ might also contain some helpful notes for the D1 too.
 
Last edited:
brian47 said:
To be totally honest, two questions come to mind here; why is a four inch lift deemed necessary on this Disco and secondly, why have such issues come as such a surprise?
I understand that a four inch lift might be undertaken for no other reason than "a project", but I fail to see any valid improvement in performance or handling by installing a lift greater than about two inches. Without addressing wheel diameters, the only "improvement" will be to the entry and exit angles, the actual ground clearance will still remain as a function of the height of the differential cases above the ground.
Had this lift project been properly researched including not just what would need to be done but also how to do it and more importantly the effects of such modifications on the behaviour and handling of the vehicle beforehand then maybe the problems could have been foreseen and remedied before they actually came about.
There again, perhaps the car park at the "Bluewater" might require a vehicle with such extravagant/aggressive modifications.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/lifting-a-d2-properly.300573/ might also contain some helpful notes for the D1 too.
Click to expand...

Simple answer is I bought what as advertised as a 2 inch lift kit that turned out to be a 4 inch once I fitted it, wasn't out of choice. I just took it as I saved a lot of money as 4 inch lift kits are a lot of money compared to 2. That's why it hasn't been properly researched as such. I had bought everything that was needed for a 2 inch kit and fitted it not knowing how much this advertised as 2 inch kit would actually be.

This was never built to go to 'Bluewater' nor sit in a car park. I find that comment a bit arrogant to be honest. I built this for pay and play days and the odd green lane/byway etc. It was never meant for daily use nor much road driving. It was for simple answer of fun. I get that this is overkill for a green lane but when there are no events on I can still go for a leisurely drive on some off tarmac.

If you read through my project thread many of your questions would have been answered rather than assuming I haven't done my research.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Hybrid 88" RRC chassis 2" lift rear prop vibration
Replies
0
Views
826
cljcars
C
L
D2 suspension questions
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
LandiesInThatFrance
L
julianf
Loads of slack in power train - diffs?
Replies
15
Views
603
julianf
julianf
bankz5152
Discovery 2 Suspension & Flex
Replies
4
Views
1K
bankz5152
bankz5152
Dervishi
Greetings from Finland with a 2003 TD5.
Replies
9
Views
2K
Maat
Maat
Back
Top