Whine... and not the cheese and bread type!

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How much gear whine is too much!?

I've never owned another Land Rover, or 4x4 for that matter so maybe this is normal, but at anything above about 45mph I get a gentle constant whine, that gets louder if accelerating along with an increase in pitch vs speed, and eases when you ease off the accelerator and unload the gears.

It is not engine or clutch related as I sped up to 65mph before dipping the clutch and putting the gearbox in neutral, and the whine slowly dies down with speed.

It's not massively loud, just "there" and I'm conscious of it. If it's normal then fine, but if not I have a warranty to sort it out!!

Any ideas? I was going to change the diff, gear and transfer box oils to see if that helps, with Difflock Evo 1 for the g/box and Evo 2 for everything else.

Cheers, Paul.
 
Not sure how we're supposed to tell whether it's too much or normal. Changing the oils is never a bad idea

Not sure, what is normal!? Does yours have "some" whine at 50mph plus? Like I say, it's not loud, can just about hear it above the turbo whistle at cruise, but it is "there", and is obvious when I knock it into neutral and coast, all the way down to about 25-30mph...

I will change all oils however, as the car will be getting a lot of hard use over the winter up and down alpine passes :D

That was your 27,800th post by the way!
 
Trans noises not unusual at all on any live axle land rover going right back to the series motors, if its not intrusive I wouldnt worry to much
Bet warranty wont help as if ts not broken etc in fact even if its broken still bet they would activate wiggle scenario!
 
£220 jesus , local motor factor would supply oil for a lot less than that and change regularly

Just been looking on Ashcroft website who stock THIS for the R380 gearbox, and THIS for transfer box and axles.

I see the gearbox 75w80 is thinner when cold which is good, and slightly thinner when hot. The 75w90 diff oil is much thinner when cold than a regular EP90, and the same viscosity when hot.

What are your thoughts guys?
 
I wouldnt have thought youd need difflocks stuff for the axles and transfer box . They are happy with what land rover recommend. EP90 isnt expensive from motor factors. The gearbox however i could see why youd want to use difflocks stuff. Heard good things about it, and with the gearboxes being abit tricky to change gear at times, it may help. Allthough i have read recently that people have tried difflocks oil in the gearbox, and gone back to MTF94 if its a r380 gearbox
 
I run my tfer box and diffs on full syn oils, only thats because we use it at work!
If I was paying it would be any old bulk 80/90
The syn gbox oils are very good, BUT and theres always be a but, what I found on my LT77 with the std weak 2nd gear synchro it was almost impossible to change down from 3rd to 2nd without a crunch, dumped the posh oil and went back to std atf good as gold again.
Change it yearly and it will be fine
 
70/80 will be a syn one, hence the expensive quote
find your local motor factors where all the hgv and local car guys go, 80/90 is the cheapest one
Smith and allen oils are meant to be very good price and quality wise, http://www.smithandallan.com/produc...allan-heavy-duty-gear-oil-ep-80w-90-api-gl45/
People like to mystify oils but in reality for a defender cheap and often is good enough, modern diesels and modern auto boxes different ball park
 
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Well I went for Redline MTL 75w80 on the recommendation of many forum users around the world!

Also bought the Fuchs Titan Sintopoind 75w90 for the transfer box and diffs, so once I've had a chance to change the fluids I'll report back with my findings :)

On another note, remap being carried out on Wednesday morning by Mike at Dynachip... super excited!! :D :cool:

Edit: Forgot to say, Opie Oils are offering 15% discount if you fill in a short feedback form :)
 
OK so had Larry remapped by Mike at Dynachip and what a difference it has made! No black smoke and I can now whizz through 70mph no probs! I removed the EGR valve before he arrived but didn't get a chance to test before the remap, but I'm sure this doesn't make a whole lot of difference.

Also changed my diff and transfer box oils at the weekend for the Fuchs 75w90. Front diff oil was pretty dirty and grey, rear diff and transfer box oils were nice and clean. The whine from the front has improved dramatically ;still there but at least I'm now fairly happy it's not the rear mainshaft bearing in the gearbox...

One thing I do notice now however, and I don't know if it was present before the oil change or not, but from cold I now get a slight scuffing noise from the front, almost like a slightly warped brake disc rubbing the pads once every revolution. The noise goes away after a mile or two, but is present with some steering lock on. Could this be something to do with the swivel pin? I'm going to grease the propshafts tonight and check the oil level in the front diff.... Anything else to check?
 
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