What Should I be Looking for on a 2000 P38A

Hi all.
I"m thinking about changing my 2003 Freelander Automatic for a 2000 P38A 2.5 Diesel Automatic.
What should I check for.

Why are you changing? Will it be your daily driver?

Probably won't need to worry about chassis too much, P38's seem very solid and not as prone as their siblings to tin-worm.
The Diesel is a good, fairly bullet-proof engine, my P38 is a V8 petrol so I'm not up on the Diesel issues if there are any.
Check for damp in front foot-wells.
If it has a sunroof check the boot for any swimming pool signs (failed drain joints on the C-pillars).

Check when the bushes have been done and are they poly/oem? When were the airbags replace?
Check the gearbox goes thru the gears like butter and doesn't snatch/hang/flair, also check it goes into low range. Does the suspension go up and down as it should without any errors? Check for the book symbol on the hevac display, go through all the options hot/cold, screen/feet/centre etc. Drive round in a circle, good check for the viscous unit

DanClarke said:

Probably won't need to worry about chassis too much, P38's seem very solid and not as prone as their siblings to tin-worm.
The Diesel is a good, fairly bullet-proof engine, my P38 is a V8 petrol so I'm not up on the Diesel issues if there are any.
Check for damp in front foot-wells.
If it has a sunroof check the boot for any swimming pool signs (failed drain joints on the C-pillars).

Click to expand...

Most P38's are OK but I have one very rusty one that I scrapped.
Boot lid seal is another common source of water leaks.

kermit_rr said:

Check when the bushes have been done and are they poly/oem? When were the airbags replace?
Check the gearbox goes thru the gears like butter and doesn't snatch/hang/flair, also check it goes into low range. Does the suspension go up and down as it should without any errors? Check for the book symbol on the hevac display, go through all the options hot/cold, screen/feet/centre etc. Drive round in a circle, good check for the viscous unit

Click to expand...

Unless it's had a hard life, the bushes shouldn't have been done or need doing. They are OK on both of mine.
Also check for the revs flaring on shifts with hard acceleration.
Check that all 4 tyres are at roughly the same state of wear, uneven wear front to back stresses the viscous coupling.
There should be no fault messages on the dash display.

mudinuri said:

Hi all.
I"m thinking about changing my 2003 Freelander Automatic for a 2000 P38A 2.5 Diesel Automatic.
What should I check for.

Click to expand...

Underpants on your head and pencils up your nostrils.

Hi Kermit-rr,
Daily driver. We don"t do that much mileage so I would like a Range Rover just for the luxury. Hope to sell my Freelander TD4 AUTO to cover some of the cost.
I made a mistake with the age. MOT states registered in 2004 but it"s on an X plate

If you don’t much mileage, get the 4.0/4.6

2004? Sure it's a p38?
First question ,for me anyway, is do you do all your own repairs?
I got mine, stood 5 yrs, couldn't drive it but heard the engine run(which was lumpy and kept cooking out) knew nowt about a p38 and it had every issue you could think of when I got it home on a trailer. I felt sorry for it and it was silver AND it was a DHSE with no body corrosion so I got it. Most of the problems were easy to fix and we're consumables, discs,pads, calipers, tyres, exhaust,bulbs, dampers, steering balljoints, rear brake pipes, all flexie brake hoses, non returning front door handles, switch pack sunroof not working, leaky heater matrix O rings, non working aircon, boot full of water, headliner sagging, sunroof leaking, battery dead, thermostat stuck open, rear bumper bent and rusted, abs sensors stuck in the front hubs , front bumper bent, green mould everywhere inside and out, leaky rims, no spare in the boot, book symbol on, pixels missing in the display, plenum chamber foam missing and the chamber full of pine needles, wiper arms rusted, parcel shelf sagging, the worst thing was the swivel ball joints job, everything else was just normal spannering really. She's turned out to be a really nice car and reliable except for a leak off pipe issue.
The only things that did work on mine,electrically, without a repair needing were the central locking, windows, eas, autobox, electric seats, and cruise control.
I did everything myself except tracking, new tyres, aircon regas.
On the road nearly 2 yrs now, running repairs have been the leak offs, headliner recover, sunroof leak fixed at the same time, aircon regas, rims refurbed, couple of bulbs, matrix O rings and new cam kits to fix the sticky out handles.

Reading my post methinks I was ripped off

Flossie said:

Reading my post methinks I was ripped off

Click to expand...

Love comes at a cost .

J

mudinuri said:

Hi Kermit-rr,
Daily driver. We don"t do that much mileage so I would like a Range Rover just for the luxury. Hope to sell my Freelander TD4 AUTO to cover some of the cost.
I made a mistake with the age. MOT states registered in 2004 but it"s on an X plate

Click to expand...

I have been running a late 2000 P38 for close to 14 years now. There was a lot to do when I got it, budget to replace the airsprings if they have not been done, since the early problems it's been pretty reliable. doing annual long runs to the UK sometimes with the caravan on the hook.
You need to be able to DIY, garages don't like the P38. You need to buy diagnostics and budget at least £1000 for initial fixes.

I've seen two later models being a 2000my and 2001my having worn front diffs.

Datatek said:

I have been running a late 2000 P38 for close to 14 years now. There was a lot to do when I got it, budget to replace the airsprings if they have not been done, since the early problems it's been pretty reliable. doing annual long runs to the UK sometimes with the caravan on the hook.
You need to be able to DIY, garages don't like the P38. You need to buy diagnostics and budget at least £1000 for initial fixes.

Click to expand...

IMHO that is a very accurate assessment, clearly based on long experience and accurate diagnosis.
A P38 will arrive with problems, and will generate new challenges as you proceed to fix the existing ones.
It can create faults while locked up overnight in a climate-controlled garage.
Most P38s are now in breakers yards or parked up as "scrappers".
At any one time, about 75% of road-going P38's have faults, and 25% are owned by delusionals and liars.
But that is not unusual for an "interesting" car.
In the past, my Porsche 911s did that, as did my G-Wagon and my Mercedes E-Class.
OK, my Volvo didn't, but I did say "interesting" cars.
It's worth it for the pleasure of driving a P38, and they do represent superb value for money.

Mine is off to V8 Developments next week... :-(

Transfer the your friendly spider in the Freelander when you sell.