west yorks EAS expert ?

Hi all, made a few posts over the last month or so about various EAS issues..faults, jumping to wade height, dropping to bump stops etc.. and Many thanks to everyone as usual for their advice..
the story so far..
i took the while connectors off and hard soldered all the wires in the Pas foot well..

i eventually did a Block rebuild with a new set of O Rings etc, changed the driver pack ( from a donor complete system )..
still plagued with an empty system after 24 hrs.. so far i've had the block out and stripped 6 times.. re-seated and checked the valves, soapy water, changed o Rings.. you name it..

i DID find a Bad valve stem yesterday.. ( bubbles when i lifted the valve cap ).. so swapped this out with a 'spare' valve.. which stopped the leak..

i still have 'small' bubbles from the base of the cap / valve on what i call No 4 ( when viewed from above ).. i've had this out, changed the O ring.. even sanded the bottom of a valve block to try seat this 100%...still no joy there..

obviously, i can't 'soapy water ' the 2 that are underneath.. so no idea if they still have leaks or not...


SO.. have i just bought a BAD set of O rings ? ( they were orange ) ? or have i just somehow made a total mess of everything ?

i have NO leaks from the Airlines them selves as they enter / exit the block.. so must be in the block ??

now.. i have ordered Another set of O rings from 'landyair' along with a Dryer service kit from them ( which i planned to service anyhow)... so plan to do 1 more re-build at the weekend of the whole system....

i live in-between Huddersfield and Wakefield, and was wondering if we have a 'local' EAS guru ? and if they have time to either help me, or take a look and help find faults with me...

any other thoughts / help / advice/ links to other re-build guides would be appreciated... this is now starting to do my head in..


thanks as ever...

If the tank is empty after 24 hours highly likely to be NRV1. I have found red/orange O'rings to be to soft for this application (NRVs) IF there is any wear in the seat (Oval) or in the guide cone. Ok everywhere else just not the NRVs. Use harder black O'rings for these. They are less prone to distort if the valve does not sit square due to worn guide cones. Or pushed into the seat opening by air pressure and damaged if not seating squarely. Make sure the solenoid seat that sits on the valve block with a small O'ring in the centre and a larger one to the outside is flat. Take out, remove O'rings and using a figure of eight movement on a piece of 320 wet or dry on a flat surface flatten the base. This item is often over tightened causing it to dish. The small O'ring in the middle is the main seal to the bags along with the seal at the base of the solenoid valve itself. Good luck.

hi Wammers, thanks for the pointers...
i'm going to re-build all in Black o'rings when they arrive..
im worried the NRV's are actually worn.. anything i can do about that ?
i will take yr advice and sand the bases flat too.. ( great tip)..
it's tricky to work out how hard to tighten these things, so not surprised if they have been over done..

cheers as ever

chopper007 said:

hi Wammers, thanks for the pointers...
i'm going to re-build all in Black o'rings when they arrive..
im worried the NRV's are actually worn.. anything i can do about that ?
i will take yr advice and sand the bases flat too.. ( great tip)..
it's tricky to work out how hard to tighten these things, so not surprised if they have been over done..

cheers as ever

Click to expand...

Barely tight, think I read somewhere 1ft lb, but I could be wrong (again)



[The man that has never made a mistake has done feck all] quote Me 14/1/15

tomcat59alan said:

Barely tight, think I read somewhere 1ft lb, but I could be wrong (again)



[The man that has never made a mistake has done feck all] quote Me 14/1/15

Click to expand...

Yep barely tight just a very slight nip. Hylomar is good to use as soft thread lock.

ok cool... slight nip it will be, i've looked on Ebay and can see any 'new' NRV's...
thinking about fitting a bypass kit too.... anyone think thats worth it ?

cheers

just stuck my head out to look at the car.. my drive is on a hill and has a left hand twist so the car always sits twisted...
but looks like at the moment it's only the Rear Left ( Pass side ) that is on bump stops...
if i'm looking into the EAS box.. which valve is this ?

also is there an easy way to inspect the pipe connection on the rear bags ? i couldn't spot them from underneath..

cheers

chopper007 said:

ok cool... slight nip it will be, i've looked on Ebay and can see any 'new' NRV's...
thinking about fitting a bypass kit too.... anyone think thats worth it ?

cheers

Click to expand...

New NRVs are not available as far as i know. Good S/H is the only route. Or if you had a lathe you could make some new centres.

ok, well that's out then :-(
i have a spare block, so can look over both sets and try see which are best....

also been looking over old posts here Wammers.. found a guy who has similar issues i think.. and was messaging you too...
I'm wondering if i managed to place a valve seat wrong, or when i took them out to change the small o'ring on the stem it's self.. managed to put the actual valve base back together wrong ?
( the bases have markings on one side and a notch etc )..
i used the guide i found on here, and thought i'd marked Everything as i took it apart too..
are there more detailed pics on here showing orientations etc ?
cheers charlie

chopper007 said:

also been looking over old posts here Wammers.. found a guy who has similar issues i think.. and was messaging you too...
I'm wondering if i managed to place a valve seat wrong, or when i took them out to change the small o'ring on the stem it's self.. managed to put the actual valve base back together wrong ?
( the bases have markings on one side and a notch etc )..
i used the guide i found on here, and thought i'd marked Everything as i took it apart too..
are there more detailed pics on here showing orientations etc ?
cheers charlie

Click to expand...

Look here may help you. Don't think the orientation will make much difference. However it's always best to replace things in their original position. The four corner solenoids and coils must of course be put back where they came from. The inlet and exhaust solenoids have much less powerful springs on them as they are held open in operation, whereas the corner ones with strong springs are pulsed.

http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/eas-valve-block-renew/

also is there an easy way to inspect the pipe connection on the rear bags ? i couldn't spot them from underneath..

cheers[/QUOTE]

When I have the car in high profile I can see an elbow and the collet into the bag(I think). It is in the centre, just under the liner. This is on the rear by the way. I found a couple of leaks there with soapy water. Going to change the fittings this weekend hopefully. Hope this helps.

thanks Wammers, the pics are a bit clearer on there.. so will use that at the weekend when i try re-build 4 !! ha who've managed to loose / miss place the Silencer too... but am sure it will turn up...
Gadgetz, thanks for the hint.. will take a look and see if i can spot them...

chopper007 said:

thanks Wammers, the pics are a bit clearer on there.. so will use that at the weekend when i try re-build 4 !! ha who've managed to loose / miss place the Silencer too... but am sure it will turn up...
Gadgetz, thanks for the hint.. will take a look and see if i can spot them...

Click to expand...

Just to make things clear. The coils MUST be put back where they came from. The four corner control solenoid bases can be swapped for any other corner solenoid base. But the exhaust and inlet solenoid bases MUST be put back in the correct position. You CANNOT swap those with any of the four corner valves. The diaphragm valve solenoid base is smaller, so cannot be interchanged by mistake. For recognition, the exhaust and inlet solenoid valves have a small spring in the top of the shaft. The four corner solenoid valves have a larger spring above the seal at the base. Look at the photos in the link i posted.

hi mate, yep.. i numbered All the Coil's so are back int eh right place for sure.. noted that the diaphragm is small and is correct... wonder about the orientation on the exhaust / inlet bases.. i will check when i strip it again.. coils for these are def correct too...

just to check.. how do i identify NRV1 ? i know there is one that sits the other way up

cheers

chopper007 said:

hi mate, yep.. i numbered All the Coil's so are back int eh right place for sure.. noted that the diaphragm is small and is correct... wonder about the orientation on the exhaust / inlet bases.. i will check when i strip it again.. coils for these are def correct too...

just to check.. how do i identify NRV1 ? i know there is one that sits the other way up

cheers

Click to expand...

The orientation does not matter. But it is better to put the top back where it came from on the base in case they have warped together and you create a gap on reassembly. But only time that will leak is when the bags are being filled so no great problem. NRV 1 is the one that goes downwards the other two stick up. NRV3 is the one in the middle the other one is NRV2.

cool, ok.. got it...

thanks

chopper007 said:

cool, ok.. got it...

thanks

Click to expand...

NRV1 seals air in the tank. NRV2 stops air from the bags going into an empty tank when the inlet valve is opened. NRV3 stops high pressure air from entering the exhaust/inlet gallery when the compressor is running filling the tank.

learnt quite a bit today, thanks so much for your time...
one more question for you i just remembered from my tinkering yesterday trying to fix this...

as i was trying to sort the 'sealing ' leak on one of the valve bases.. ( viewed from the top insitu.. i call it No.4 from the left ).. this is the one i mentioned earlier which had small bubbles on the soapy test..
i depressurised the tank, and the bags with the software...
and then took the cap off to remove the valve, check it and try reseat it for a better seal...
when i loosened the valve base its self.. it still had a lot of air pressure behind it...
which confused me as i had vented everything ( twice intact )..
could this be a bad / sticking valve, or cap ?
just an additional thought was all..
i have a spare set on a spare block i have, so could swap them when i do rebuild no.5 at the weekend if it could be....

cheers

chopper007 said:

learnt quite a bit today, thanks so much for your time...
one more question for you i just remembered from my tinkering yesterday trying to fix this...

as i was trying to sort the 'sealing ' leak on one of the valve bases.. ( viewed from the top insitu.. i call it No.4 from the left ).. this is the one i mentioned earlier which had small bubbles on the soapy test..
i depressurised the tank, and the bags with the software...
and then took the cap off to remove the valve, check it and try reseat it for a better seal...
when i loosened the valve base its self.. it still had a lot of air pressure behind it...
which confused me as i had vented everything ( twice intact )..
could this be a bad / sticking valve, or cap ?
just an additional thought was all..
i have a spare set on a spare block i have, so could swap them when i do rebuild no.5 at the weekend if it could be....

cheers

Click to expand...

Don't know maybe a bit of residual. Just do you rebuild carefully and see what you get.