Welding shock absorber stubs to chassis

Webley1991 · Aug 3, 2012

The shock absorber stubs on my Series 3 chassis are rusted and need replacing

How is the chassis constructed behind the stub? Is it simply a hollow box section or is there a tube that runs through for the shock absorber bolt? What is the thickness of the chassis walls?

I can turn up a new stub without any trouble. I have been doing some welding training at work recently as well, and I am fairly confident I could mig weld it on. I was planning on bolting it in place with the shock absorber top bolt and then welding it.

It looks like grinding the old ones off may be a pain as the rear floor may need to come out.

Thanks for any info.

johnny curt 1 · Aug 3, 2012

theyre set in a tube welded right through the entire box section of the chassis rail and are a complete asshole to get out

the last set i done i ended up grinding the welds off flat both sides of the chassis rail then boring the buggers out with a 24mm tungsten drillbit and turning up my own stubbs to fit in and then welding the buggers up

hell of a pig job to do seconded only to geting the spring shackle hanger bushes out of the chassis rails

Webley1991 · Aug 3, 2012

A possible solution may be to cut off the rusted 3/4" hollow tube flush with the boss behind it, leaving the boss in place as a flat surface. A top hat type piece with the 3/4" stub could possibly then be welded to this boss. If the back of this piece was only around 3mm thick then it may not make any difference.

I can do a quick diagram in paint if my description isn't good enough.

johnny curt 1 · Aug 3, 2012

what id do in thyat case seems a little mad but itll work with no doubt

nick the axle off a wheelie bin as its 20mm dia and pretty fookin solid bar (great fer machining ) grind the stub off the chassis then drill through the bloody lot at 20mm and slot the axle in after turning it to suit the shock damper bushes

Webley1991 · Aug 3, 2012

This is what I was thinking of (new piece shown in red). That way, no drilling is needed.

However, this is assuming that the tube that goes through the box section is solid like in the drawing. Am I right about this?

johnny curt 1 · Aug 3, 2012

Webley1991 said:
This is what I was thinking of (new piece shown in red). That way, no drilling is needed.

However, this is assuming that the tube that goes through the box section is solid like in the drawing. Am I right about this?

nope

when the chassis is made theres a tube welded into the box section then later theres a big ass steel stud shoved into this tube with the machined reduction on the end and its welded in from the back side of the rail

Webley1991 · Aug 4, 2012

So from your description it is something like this?

So the welds need to be ground off at the back for it to come out?

johnny curt 1 · Aug 4, 2012

Webley1991 said:
So from your description it is something like this?

So the welds need to be ground off at the back for it to come out?

spot on mate thats why i ended up drilling the back out of the stud wich enabled me to punch the stud out but it got jammed good n proppa half way due to the tinworm so i had to drill the entire thing out coz i didnt have any acetylene at the time to expand the bitch

tottot · Aug 4, 2012

Have done this fix the Webley 1991 way, worked fine.

Welding shock absorber stubs to chassis

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