Wastegate Adjustment

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pos

pos

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,685
Location
West Yorkshire
Hello,

I'm going to check that the turbo on my 200tdi is boosting correctly tomorrow and knock it up slightly regardless. How exactly do I go about doing this? I've tried searching but there's nothing that explains exactly what's involved. Pictures would be a big help :eek: I tend to be very heavy handed when I'm tinkering and that actuator arm looks like no match for my impatience :eek:

From what I can see there's a nut on the actuator which I'll need to slacken off, but how does one then wind the arm towards the actuator house and which bit exactly am I adjusting?

Cheers
-Pos
 
OS,google map or for the ultimate map get a bikers one-wipe clean
 
Our local mechanics are very good at remapping 200Tdi's. And anything else, including air-cooled 1964 Lister engines.

They just need a hammer and a couple of odd-sized spanners, and the next time you open your bonnet you discover a remapped engine, full of things you never knew could exist, and missing bits you never knew could be broken off.
 
To turn the boost up you effectively need to shorten the waste gate actuator rod by means of the screw adjuster. The rod connects to a diaphragm inside the actuator and most people just loosen the adjuster and turn the rod with pliers while holding the adjuster still. However you risk tearing the rod from the diaphragm if you are heavy handed or the ball connector has coroded.

The proper way is to disconnect the actuator rod from the wastegate arm and make your adjustments holding the rod still and turning the adjuster. It can be a fight to get the rod reconnected against the diaphragm spring pressure though which is why peeps dont bother.

A half turn shorter on the the rod equals about 1psi increase on my TD5 turbo so take it easy. I'd advise you to go no more than 18psi max boost on any diesel engine and then only with a sound engine. Go up in small steps and record the changes so you can go back if needed. Too much and you will blow a head gasket and overheat your valves and exhaust manifold.

You have been warned but have fun experimenting.
 
I think some people have shortened the rod (with a saw) and then screwed it back together, I just shortened the screw as far as it would go.
 
I adjusted the wastgeate actuator arm today and so far the results seem okay. The 10mm locknut came loose after a good soak with penetrating oil and then I just removed the 'c-clip' and wound the end back in towards the diaphragm housing by two full turns. The power seems marginally better but the bastard thing still wont go up the hill at 45 like it used to do :mad: I think I had been over-fuelling. If I'm over fuelling the cylinders so much that they're black smoking, it should in effect reduce power rather than increase it shouldn't it? When my engine was running spot on, there was never once a trace of black smoke from the exhaust, even under load (I can see the tail pipe through my wing mirror). Over the last few weeks it has been black smoking, so I rotated the boost diaphragm back around to where it was originally and it's not smoking anywhere near as much. I will fit a boost gauge next weekend all being well, and see how it's looking.

-Pos
 
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