waste gate adjustment (engine not yet fitted)

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callisr

callisr

Well-Known Member
Posts
615
Location
Burton-on-Trent, Staffs
Hi all!

I currently have a 300tdi engine in the garage, soon to be fitted into my truck.
The manifold is currently on the bench and I was just wondering if it is worth shortening the waste gate actuator rod while I can get at it? Was thinking 5mm.
I can't find any reference to it doing any harm as a stand alone adjustment? In theory it will just run a touch cooler due to a tad more air in relation to the fuel, is this correct?
I will eventually tweek the pump once the engine is fitted and running.
OR, should I just leave it as Landrover intended?
EGR valve is now in the bin!
Cheers,

Rich
 
Hmmm...not sure on that unless you have a boost gauge connected up for the maiden run?
You could just free up the nut/threads and practice getting the clip on and off without dropping it whilst it's all accessible.
If you need to cut the thread down its easier to unbolt the actuator from the turbo so it would be a good idea to free those 2 bolts off to.
 
I think I would advise some caution with boost pressures on the 300. Mine is tuned via the pump, and a full width intercooler. IIRC, the 200 Tdi can take a moderate increase, but this is not advised on the 300.

Some info here:- http://jeremyjfearn.co.uk/

A variable nozzle turbo, is a safer option - it should give you the same boost pressures earlier, and make the vehicle much more driveable ..... granted at a cost....

Its on my wish list.
 
Sound advice, gratefully recieved.
I will make sure all the threads are clear and free but leave the settings alone.
VNT........Ooof! Not got that sort of loose change kicking about!
Thanks both for taking the time to reply!
Rich
 
callisr said:
Sound advice, gratefully recieved.
I will make sure all the threads are clear and free but leave the settings alone.
VNT........Ooof! Not got that sort of loose change kicking about!
Thanks both for taking the time to reply!
Rich
Click to expand...
HTH:)
Aye, sadly VNT's are a chunk, but I'm saving me pennies :)
 
Does anyone have any info on how to set the actuator to standard, or to check if its been adjusted or not?
I have been cleaning it all up a bit today and see some marks on the actuator (the fact that I can see marks would suggest that the rod has been lengthened).
I guess a measurement of how many threads are exposed on the rod in standard tune would be a good indication?
Cheers
Rich
 
To set the boost pressure properly you need a gauge and to run the engine at full load (up a hill) and make it work hard, there are many variables involved, remember that boost pressure affects the FIP and FIP is what governs the amount of exhaust gasses the engine produces which itself affects how much boost the turbo produces so it is a sort of closed loop cycle. You cant do it just by blipping the throttle in neutral. Simple answer to your question is no, you need to fit the engine first.
 
callisr said:
Hi all!

I currently have a 300tdi engine in the garage, soon to be fitted into my truck.
The manifold is currently on the bench and I was just wondering if it is worth shortening the waste gate actuator rod while I can get at it? Was thinking 5mm.
I can't find any reference to it doing any harm as a stand alone adjustment? In theory it will just run a touch cooler due to a tad more air in relation to the fuel, is this correct?
I will eventually tweek the pump once the engine is fitted and running.
OR, should I just leave it as Landrover intended?
EGR valve is now in the bin!
Cheers,

Rich
Click to expand...

No that is not correct, how does more air and less fuel make an engine run cooler?
 
Plus if you produce more air pressure the boost compensator on the FIP will add more fuel to suit the extra air.
 
wammers said:
No that is not correct, how does more air and less fuel make an engine run cooler?
Click to expand...

I dunno! Thats why I ask questions lol!
I had decided to leave well alone but then found marks on the actuator rod which make me think it has had previous meddlings.

I have got a 0-30psi guage and some fittings now to make a boost guage off the blanking plug on the inlet manifold. As soon as the engine is in and running I will investigate further and see what boost pressure is present.

Thankyou to all who have taken the time to reply!

Rich
 
callisr said:
I dunno! Thats why I ask questions lol!
I had decided to leave well alone but then found marks on the actuator rod which make me think it has had previous meddlings.

I have got a 0-30psi guage and some fittings now to make a boost guage off the blanking plug on the inlet manifold. As soon as the engine is in and running I will investigate further and see what boost pressure is present.

Thankyou to all who have taken the time to reply!

Rich
Click to expand...

If it's been played with, rig a pump through an NRV through your gauge and to the waste gate actuator. Pump up and actuator should start to move at around 1.1 to 1.15 Ats. 15.95 to 16.67 Psi. Don't know the actual setting for the 300 tdi but those pressures are about normal for a standard turbo.
 
That is great! Thankyou!
I will take the assy into work and do as you say!
How far should the waste gate open when 16psi is applied to the actuator?
Sorry for all the questions! Google isnt revealing many answers to this one!
Cheers
Rich
 
callisr said:
That is great! Thankyou!
I will take the assy into work and do as you say!
How far should the waste gate open when 16psi is applied to the actuator?
Sorry for all the questions! Google isnt revealing many answers to this one!
Cheers
Rich
Click to expand...

The actuator rod should start to move which will maintain max boost possible around the 1.1 to 1.15 ats range. As i said i don't know the actual setting for the 300 Tdi maybe you should find this out. I only quote the numbers to give a safe guide to set to in case someone has bumped it up way beyond that. People do tend to play with things they don't understand when trying to build a 300 Tdi dragster. ;):D:D
 
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