(V6) Fault code: P1319

Hi,

just bought an OBDii device to see if the missfire I'm seeing is the same cylinder or if that one is fixed now.

It says Cylinder 1 is misfiring now (was cylinder 3 before, confirmed by the burnt rocker cover gasket), plus I get code P1319 which according to Google means "Misfire detected at low fuel level."

The "low fuel level" could just be a coincidence as I just filled it up after running very low (I'm driving 100 miles a day at the moment).

A new set of HT leads should arrive tomorrow and may help (if I'm bloody lucky!)

Has anyone else had this fault and what did you do to fix it?

Thanks all

I've had a duff coil on the front bank which gave me a misfire. I don't see how a cylinder misfire can damage a cam cover gasket though?? I've never seen anything like that even on a 250 bhp KV6!!

Well, it's a bit chicken and egg!
The insulation on the HT lead to plug 3 was split (in fact it still is, just taped up until new ones arrive).
The plug hole was full of oil which had leaked through the gasket, so maybe the oil caused arcing which split the insulation - ?
The gasket had a definite burn spot near plug 3, which is what caused the leak. Probably caused by the arcing - ?

Anyway, no misfire codes for cylinder 3 now, just for cylinder 1.

Just had P1319 (and P0301) again on a full tank, so obviously nothing to do with the fuel level.

Could it be the fuel pump maybe?

Thanks for that!

So, that seems to say it could also be a crankshaft sensor or "Air restriction or leak problems".

No idea where to look for possible air problems just for 1 cylinder, but something else to consider. Thanks

Replaced HT leads with high performance ones.

Car definitely runs better, but still misfiring

No MIL but OBDii says P0301 again.

I'm going to try swapping some coil packs around as a diagnostic, otherwise next step is the camshaft sensor as this looks like a very easy job.

bukko said:

Replaced HT leads with high performance ones.

Car definitely runs better, but still misfiring

No MIL but OBDii says P0301 again.

I'm going to try swapping some coil packs around as a diagnostic, otherwise next step is the camshaft sensor as this looks like a very easy job.

Click to expand...

Have you changed the plugs? And why the cam sensor? Has it had a new crank sensor?

Um... :confused2:

Plugs are a few months old. I guess I could try changing them seeing as they're not hugely expensive.

It hasn't had a new crank sensor - actually that's what I meant, although I must admit at some point in my head it changed to camshaft sensor and I almost ordered one!

Is the crank sensor a pain to change?

bukko said:

Um... :confused2:

Plugs are a few months old. I guess I could try changing them seeing as they're not hugely expensive.

It hasn't had a new crank sensor - actually that's what I meant, although I must admit at some point in my head it changed to camshaft sensor and I almost ordered one!

Is the crank sensor a pain to change?

Click to expand...

What type of plugs were fitted? It should have platinum plugs. The reason I asked about the crank sensor was because if that is changed the engine needs to go on Test Book so the new sensor's characteristics can be set!! If this is'nt done it can flag up a misfire.

Nodge68 said:

What type of plugs were fitted? It should have platinum plugs. The reason I asked about the crank sensor was because if that is changed the engine needs to go on Test Book so the new sensor's characteristics can be set!! If this is'nt done it can flag up a misfire.

Click to expand...

Don't know if they are platinum plugs, although they might be as the garage charged £8 each. I'll check though.

Haven't changed the crank (CK1?) sensor yet.

Was thinking about this though - there is a genuine misfire, not just a mis-reported one. The car rocks when hot (haven't changed the coolant reservoir yet either!).

The crank sensor wouldn't cause a misfire would it? I can see how it could miss-report one though.

Since changing the HT leads to high performance ones, the missfiring on cylinder 3 seems to have gone away.

I'll probably know more when I get a chance to swap the coils around a bit. Trying to order a complete set, but ICS's website isn't working!

Try swapping the coil packs between cylinders and see if the misfire moves with the pack

if so you found the problem and you can get just as many coil packs as needed.........

Swapped coil packs 1 and 5.
It isn't detecting any misfires now, although I'm pretty sure it still is.
Will wait for the MIL to come back on and I'll check it again.

Have you done a compression test ?

Nodge68 said:

Have you done a compression test ?

Click to expand...

That's a scary thought! But no I haven't.

Is it something a garage has to do or can I do it?

There aren't any obvious HGF signs though.
It does lose a slight amount of coolant but the reservoir has the usual cracks - new one is on the way.

Ok it looks pretty easy to do the compression test.

Is there a recommended testing kit? Some on eBay from £10 to £70.

Do I need to check every cylinder? Would probably just do the front bank.

Is there an easy way to disable ignition on the rear bank or do I need to pop the plugs out of the coil packs? Never done that before as I'm not sure my hands will fit round there without taking the plenum assembly off!

Just do all 3 front cylinders. A £10 tester is fine as you are simply making sure all cylinders are about the same. With modern ECU controlled engines I spin the engine over by triggering the starter directly as it removes any possibility of ECU damage. On a V6 Freelander it's very easy to do as the starter is so close to the battery.

Nodge68 said:

...I spin the engine over by triggering the starter directly...

Click to expand...

Um - ok.
How exactly do I do that?

Sorry - I'm learning slowly...

bukko said:

Um - ok.
How exactly do I do that?

Sorry - I'm learning slowly...

Click to expand...

When doing a compression test the engine needs to be as hot as possible. Then pull out all three front plugs and fit your tester into no 1 first.
The starter is easy to trigger on a V6.
There are 2 connectors on the starter. One is the battery cable which is the thick one. The other is the T terminal. To trigger the starter all you need do is connect the T terminal to the battery + which will spin over the engine!! I use this trick every time I do an oil change to avoid oil starvation at start up. Just remember to remove the key from the ignition and make sure the box is in park. Crank it over for 5 or 6 compression strokes or 5 seconds is enough to give you a good compression reading. Repeat the cranking for all 3 front cylinders.

Nodge68 said:

When doing a compression test the engine needs to be as hot as possible. Then pull out all three front plugs and fit your tester into no 1 first.
The starter is easy to trigger on a V6.
There are 2 connectors on the starter. One is the battery cable which is the thick one. The other is the T terminal. To trigger the starter all you need do is connect the T terminal to the battery + which will spin up the engine!! I use this trick every time I do an oil change to avoid oil starvation. Just remember to remove the key from the ignition and make sure the it's in park. 5 or 6 or about compression strokes or 5 seconds is enough to give you a good compression reading.

Click to expand...

Excellent tip! I'll use a jump lead then.
Will let you know how it goes.