undersealing progress....

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joe27979

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,354
Location
west Norfolk
Hey all,

Thought id put up a few more pics of the landy restoration. Underseal has been applied now on prepared metalwork all the way from the rear cross member to the front suspension turrets...not much left to go now!! :eek:) yippee, no more black ****e stuck in my skin!

Ive also put on all four mudflaps now, you can see how much work went into getting the A-Frame stripped, rubbed down and re-coated, also a new ball joint fitted.

the underside is almost ready for waxoyling, then i can forget about it down there until something breaks! lol
 

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Cheers my good fellow-I'll ensure I do them too, probably wait till I have rear wheels off to coat wheel arches for added sound deadening...sounds like a rimfire when stones hit them at mo :0)
 
also pay close attention to your A frame cross member as there as LOTS of mud traps as I found out lol ( see pics in my gallery )
 
Had to put a grinder with wire brush to the a-frame cross member as it was a hideous lump of rust. Luckily the bolt holes were sound but sine of the fins joining chassis just crumbled between my fingers. 3undercoats of zinc primer, 2hammerite and one underseal later it's ready for an outside soaking of black waxoyl and clear waxoyl with 30% engine oil for inside it to soak into mud/rust that lives inside. It's taken so many hours to get this far-I hope it's worth it in the long run.
 
I've just put some tools on order (mainly an angle grinder) to make this my next project, so thanks for the pics! Is it safe to say that I should avoid the exhaust, brakes, wheels, suspension, and drive shaft? Anything else that should be off-limits for my grinder and the sealant? Anything I should definitely remove other than the wheels?
 
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This Is definitly something I will be doing to my Landy when I get one end of the year! How have you done this? What have you had to remove to get to It all? What parts have you done?

Sorry for all the questions mate, you seem to have done a good job so thought I'd rack your brains :)
 
Hi, I have been preserving chassis for 30 years, this is not the way to go, it will just rot under all that thick underseal, & what about the inside of the chasis? full of salt rot not treated. wax oils your best way by far twice a year, get yourself a small compresser & a shulz gun with a longe injection pipe, one tine of shulz underseal with a tin top thread not plastic sceew threeds, through the content away, heat up the wax oil in front of a space heater or boiling hot water (remove the top or BANG) & put it in the shulz tin container. 1 gallon to on landy inside the doors, drill if you have too to get it in there. do all rubber pipes as well keeps them supple. get with your friends buy all the stuff between you. I use finnigans waxoil but others are out there. A friend uses some @ £17 a litre on his ford fiesta XR2 must be over 30 years old. PS I am only thinking of the best for your landy. Read the tin it`s all exsplained.
 
Hi, I have been preserving chassis for 30 years, this is not the way to go, it will just rot under all that thick underseal, & what about the inside of the chasis? full of salt rot not treated. wax oils your best way by far twice a year, get yourself a small compresser & a shulz gun with a longe injection pipe, one tine of shulz underseal with a tin top thread not plastic sceew threeds, through the content away, heat up the wax oil in front of a space heater or boiling hot water (remove the top or BANG) & put it in the shulz tin container. 1 gallon to on landy inside the doors, drill if you have too to get it in there. do all rubber pipes as well keeps them supple. get with your friends buy all the stuff between you. I use finnigans waxoil but others are out there. A friend uses some @ £17 a litre on his ford fiesta XR2 must be over 30 years old. PS I am only thinking of the best for your landy. Read the tin it`s all exsplained.
..ahhh somebody that is right,it will still be a rusty fender eh topgun...:D:D
 
I dont think I have explained in detail yet whats been done....I take your comments on board as well as the uhndreds of posts ive read on this topic.
Steps I have taken (and yet to do)..

1. Pressure wash the bajesus out of the underside of the vehicle, get in all the knooks and crannies and use degreaser on the parts which have oil contamination
2. Jacked up front end and hosed inside chassis to try and get most of mud to dilute and drain out (granted I dont know if its all out but how would you tell?)
3. Took her out on a long run on a dry hot day, then let it stand in a heated garage for 2 weeks to dry out thoroughly.
4. Buy a hat, and spent a whole week with a wire brush and scraper getting all...and I mean all of the dried mud I didnt reach with jet washer.
this took some time but i wanted to be sure i had a very clean canvas to start from
5. Brought a couple of wire wheels for my grinder and started to clean up the outside of the chassis, removing the old sparse remnants of waxoyl and loose rust to see what condition it is in.
6. Once any holes had been welded over and all rubbed down I applied two coats of Davids Isopon zinc 182 rust preventer primer and let it dry.
7. Took off any bits that needed repairing (in my case A frame was a rusty ball so stripped it out and replaced all bolts and bushes)
8. applied a coat of "Hammerite with added waxoyl" underseal over the top of the zinc primer. once dried another coat.
9. Im now at the stage where I need to treat the inside of the chassis, my plan is to mix the clear waxoyl with clean diesel and spray all of the inside chassis memebers, door frames, bulkhead etc. I have a high pressure gun and flexible attachment to get into the hard to reach area's.
10. Next i will apply two coats of black waxoyl to the outside of the chassis, wheel arches etc.

For those of you who have commented or done this before am I making a drastic mistake or is this a fairly comprehensive procedure?

cheers - any criticisms are taken constructively of course!
:D
 
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