Two new Noises on my Rangie

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
SpacePig

SpacePig

New Member
Posts
393
Location
Tokyo - Japan
First of all Happy New Year

Now I have a new set of question for you guys

1. New Tapping Noise Engine Bay
Before the holidays we changed the Head Gasket and other engine seals to fix a few oil leaks, and today after having left my Rangie for 3 weeks unattended I checked under the engine I hear a "tapping" noise coming from the right side of the engine (when you are facing it) and seems to be located around the Spark Plugs.

Don't remember ever having this noise before. Anyway here you are a sample what can be heard https://www.dropbox.com/s/7t4x6uzmcih5z32/tappingnoise.mp3. Note that this noise is inaudible when you are facing the engine, you have to listen carefully on the right side and for this recording I put my phone at a few inches from the engine itself. As you will listen on this recording, I move the phone to just on top of the engine and no tapping noise.

I made a quick search and I came with too possible explanation
- Lifter Tappet
- Seal between the header and y-pipe

Any suggestions?

2 Electric Noise
I can hear a buzzing electric noise below the car located under the right side passenger are. Again never heard this noise before today. I fitted a new fuel pump last September and I really can't see what else can make this buzzing electric noise within this area

Here you are a recording https://www.dropbox.com/s/bpdl8bad7tmqxwd/Buzzing.mp3 it is difficult to hear the buzzing noise at first but after a few sec you can catch what I mean (hopefully).

Again any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Hydraulic tappets would be the noise in the engine they are losing pressure whule engine is standing.
As for buzzing noise is it thelow ratio motor not cutting out?
 
ovalandrover said:
Hydraulic tappets would be the noise in the engine they are losing pressure whule engine is standing.
As for buzzing noise is it thelow ratio motor not cutting out?
Click to expand...

Thanks, so I have to change the Tappet then, do we change one or all?

As for the Ratio motor, interesting, I will have to check this further, where it is normally located?
 
I checked a bit further for the Buzzing noise and it we can even hear it in the rear right wheel arch. And nothing around the gearbox or below the driver area.

Fuel pump Dead ? (Changed it last september)
 
It could also be the flex plate? (drive plate) on the way out. Normally you get this noise when in P,R,N but not in 1,2,3,D can you try this? The noise will be worse around the r/h bell housing. I have just had this and its a similar sound. My gearbox is out now and awaiting parts. Flex plate had gone all the way round. Will try to put the sound that I had for comparison.
If its not the flex plate, and I hope its not, then put a long screwdriver against each head when the engine is running. Put you ear at the end of the screwdriver and this will amplify the sound this will help locate the noise. If the hydraulic follower has drained down during the three weeks does it go quite again when running the engine for more than a few minutes. Have you checked your oil level.
Another possibility is an exhaust leak.
 
Last edited:
SpacePig said:
Thanks, so I have to change the Tappet then, do we change one or all?

As for the Ratio motor, interesting, I will have to check this further, where it is normally located?
Click to expand...

I presume you generously pre lubed every thing on assembly and put them back in correct order unless really Promenent learn to live with it I can't really hear an loud outstanding tappet myself does it go quieter when revs increase give it time to settle in.
 
stopover said:
It could also be the flex plate? (drive plate) on the way out. Normally you get this noise when in P,R,N but not in 1,2,3,D can you try this? The noise will be worse around the r/h bell housing. I have just had this and its a similar sound. My gearbox is out now and awaiting parts. Flex plate had gone all the way round. Will try to put the sound that I had for comparison.
If its not the flex plate, and I hope its not, then put a long screwdriver against each head when the engine is running. Put you ear at the end of the screwdriver and this will amplify the sound this will help locate the noise. If the hydraulic follower has drained down during the three weeks does it go quite again when running the engine for more than a few minutes. Have you checked your oil level.
Another possibility is an exhaust leak.
Click to expand...

Interesting... The garage where I goes told me that I have to rebuild my Gearbox since it was giving some kick from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3. After changing the GB Oil, the Filter and adding some GB treatment I no longer feel these kicks... Still I am advise to do something about it and I was suppose to order a rebuild one from the UK. Is the Flexplate included in the GB?

As for the hydraulic, well maybe, the noise however after a 30 minute rides was less important and difficult to catch with the engine turned on, but it was still apparently there. Will check the exhaust leak as well, the center exhaust pipe has been replaced this summer
 
defender300td1 said:
I presume you generously pre lubed every thing on assembly and put them back in correct order unless really Promenent learn to live with it I can't really hear an loud outstanding tappet myself does it go quieter when revs increase give it time to settle in.
Click to expand...

I rarely do thing myself, I use a Garage that only deal with Land Rover for all my RR works and asking questions here help me to save money and make sure that I am not fooled around and this despite having confidence on them. So to your question they pre-lubed everything and at my last shaken (your MOT) they put greased everywhere they could, my U Joint has been greased twice this year for example, overkill I know but it cost really nothing.

Now indeed the tappet noise was less important after a test ride, still there but you had to really put your head dangerously next to the engine to hear it. I also read that people like you leave with it when it is very small, but what is the impact on the engine?
 
SpacePig said:
I rarely do thing myself, I use a Garage that only deal with Land Rover for all my RR works and asking questions here help me to save money and make sure that I am not fooled around and this despite having confidence on them. So to your question they pre-lubed everything and at my last shaken (your MOT) they put greased everywhere they could, my U Joint has been greased twice this year for example, overkill I know but it cost really nothing.

Now indeed the tappet noise was less important after a test ride, still there but you had to really put your head dangerously next to the engine to hear it. I also read that people like you leave with it when it is very small, but what is the impact on the engine?
Click to expand...

Nothing unless really really bad you might just be a little over Cautious to be expected I had a freelander with a Loud tappet for years :)
 
defender300td1 said:
Nothing unless really really bad you might just be a little over Cautious to be expected I had a freelander with a Loud tappet for years :)
Click to expand...

Thanks. I am a rather overzealous person when it comes to have things done or working right, a little noise on something and I will not sleep... Yep I am that crazy.

Anyway the tappet noise is not loud and you cannot hear it when opening the bonnet and stand in front of it... I will check if the noise is getting worse, anyway I am set to visit the Garage this week end since I have the starter to change, the GB and have to do an Overall on the EAS Valve Block (the joints)
 
SpacePig said:
Thanks. I am a rather overzealous person when it comes to have things done or working right, a little noise on something and I will not sleep... Yep I am that crazy.

Anyway the tappet noise is not loud and you cannot hear it when opening the bonnet and stand in front of it... I will check if the noise is getting worse, anyway I am set to visit the Garage this week end since I have the starter to change, the GB and have to do an Overall on the EAS Valve Block (the joints)
Click to expand...
If your paying a garage to do that lot, you must earn way too much money:rolleyes:
 
There is a theory that fully synthetic engine oil is not suitable for old design engines.
The hydraulic tappets don't pump themselves up properly. However I don't know about the petrol as I have got a diesel. I just know mine rattles more on fully synth.

Switching to a conventional mineral oil as per the book may do the trick. There will be a choice of grades depending on ambient temperatures where you are. Try one which is a thicker viscosity at the next service.
 
Last edited:
dave4x4 said:
There is a theory that fully synthetic engine oil is not suitable for old design engines.
The hydraulic tappets don't pump themselves up properly. However I don't know about the petrol as I have got a diesel. I just know mine rattles more on fully synth.

Switching to a conventional mineral oil as per the book may do the trick. There will be a choice of grades depending on ambient temperatures where you are. Try one which is a thicker viscosity at the next service.
Click to expand...

I am not on Synthetic but not sure if it is 10W40 or something else, will try thicker oil next time, thanks!
 
If you can get hold of it, it might be worth trying this stuff (unless someone with more knowledge of the RR diesel engine than me thinks not!):

Halfords | Wynn's Hydraulic Valve Lifter 350ml

(don't get from halfrauds, but the same stuff should be available at your local factors).

I used it in a K-series engine which had really noisy tappets following a fairly major HGF where the owner had continued driving for some time!! It's sorted the noisy lifters a treat.
 
Hmm............might try some of that and see if it works. I can hear a tap on the RHS of my diesel when it is cold. It disappears when it gets hot. I think it is a tappet.
 
Tappets are always a owners concern , due to the worst outcome scenarios, though i drove my rangie with a slight noise and never had any bother. My advice is if its worrying you that much get a qualified second opinion for piece of mind
 
marcinbrighton said:
If you can get hold of it, it might be worth trying this stuff (unless someone with more knowledge of the RR diesel engine than me thinks not!):

Halfords | Wynn's Hydraulic Valve Lifter 350ml

(don't get from halfrauds, but the same stuff should be available at your local factors).

I used it in a K-series engine which had really noisy tappets following a fairly major HGF where the owner had continued driving for some time!! It's sorted the noisy lifters a treat.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I will check this if we got equivalent here in Japan and if not I will order this online.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Whats this noise? Help please
Replies
10
Views
653
Henry_b
Henry_b
ar1g3
P38A P38 rattle at idle
2
Replies
26
Views
3K
roythebus
R
eduard_andrei
Noises from behind when full steering
2
Replies
21
Views
880
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel
Flossie
P38A Thats new! Buzzy noise.
Replies
9
Views
848
Flossie
Flossie
S
Lower control arm bushings
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
Back
Top