turbos 'n oil (fyi)

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hd3

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pdf document :

explains the oil circulation regarding turbos ..
'n the relationship to crankcase vent valves / air intake filters

http://www.approvedturbo.com/articles/ATC-Oil-Leak-Troubleshooting.pdf

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( edited .. 23rd april 2013 .. to add these two links ) ..

some turbo info .. but .. not LR or diesel turbo specific ..

http://www.turborepair.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=202&Itemid=154

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...-practice-idling-rule-turbo-charged-cars.html

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hippo 1 .. owners manual states 'always' idling for 10 seconds before shutdown .. ( for td4 )

( and also states 'do not' press the go-pedal when starting )

btw: when i went for my hgv license ( in 1976 ) .. we were taught .. that if idling a diesel for long periods ..
( e.g. overnight in freezing weather .. sleeping in the cab with heater on .. )
the rpm should be set at least at 1000 rpm in order to keep the oil pressure up ..
and prevent diesel wash-down of the cylinder bores ..
( not sure how valid that might be for modern common rail / electronic injection diesels )

however .. by force of habit maybe .. i still do that with my td4 ..
e.g taking an extended coffee break in the car .. in winter .. during a long trip ..

freelander1 td4 oil pressure details here
http://www.rover-club.net/graphics/manuals/16/m47r_diesel.pdf
on page 35 ..
 
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Confirms the importance of ensuring the crankcase breather filter is changed before it becomes blocked and allows the crankcase to pressurise which could then result in the turbo seals blowing and the engine running away, exactly the problem that BMW had with their version of the TD4.
 
Changed my filter yesterday, it was around 3 times as thick as the new one, lord knows how it let any air past!! I do believe that, for the cost, it should definintely be changed once a year, for peace of mind if nothing else IMO.
 
Changed my filter yesterday, it was around 3 times as thick as the new one, lord knows how it let any air past!! I do believe that, for the cost, it should definintely be changed once a year, for peace of mind if nothing else IMO.

Just get the BMW vortex mod, should be OK then for at least 50,000 miles as you no longer have a filter.
 
crankcasebreather-1.jpg


This part you mean? I had a look on fleabay, the whole assembly can be purchased, but by the look of things I'll only need this part.
 
050620125861.jpg


This was the state of my filter upon removal. If it catches this much oil from vapour, how can the BMW replacement, without a filter, trap the oil? Or is the process different?
 
The mod is just the plastic insert and does away with the filter element, cost app £23 from BMW and is not a LR part. The vortex is not designed to remove the carbon/crap as the engine oil filter covers that.
 
use a cylconic effect to stop oil been lost into intake system ,engines used to vent to open air ,but for a long time for emission purposes engines breathe back into intake system
 
use a cylconic effect to stop oil been lost into intake system ,engines used to vent to open air ,but for a long time for emission purposes engines breathe back into intake system
Breather pipe came off the top of the rocker cover and connected upstream to the aircleaner,the oil vapours were burnt during combustion, worn engines would fill the air cleaner with engine oil.
 
That's why my first cars ran on Duckhams Q20-50. ;)

Ah-------green nostalgia------Duckhams------mmmmmm-----I can smell it now!

Singvogel. :cool:

Always used it in my new MGB, used to change it when it started looking dirty (about every 2000 miles) must have had more money than sense, there again it was the three main bearing crank version.
 
given the number of threads re: 'crankcase breather' recently ..

:bump: 'ing this thread so newbies can view the .pdf in the o.p.

( regarding the oil circulation in the turbo ..
( and how it's related to crankcase pressure

i.e. another good reason to keep that crankcase vent and valve .. shipshape ..
 
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