Disco 2 Traction control problem!

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S

sofie 2

Member
Posts
14
Location
Manchester
Hi Lads,
My front left TC always aggressively kicks-in when turning right & also when I hit a pot hole on a straight road.
This all started after I replaced all the ball joints at the front end. I tried to identify the fault by checking: resistance of the sensors, tracking, substituting the ABS ECU & also replacing with a matched pair of new hubs [60 segment] . All to no avail.
I make the same journey on regular basis & know where the TC will kick-in. The other day whilst making the same journey at 30 mph, I took my foot off the accelerator as I approached a known pot hole and the TC didn't kick-in. I continued on the journey and repeated the technique a few times with the same result.It also works when turning right.
I thought that I was dealing with an electrical problem, but it appears to be a mechanical problem.
Any advice would be welcome.
 
Thanks James, I was careful to get the sensors tight.
I just don't understand how I can be doing 30mph with my foot off the accelerator that it stops the fault at known road problems. If I leave my foot on the gas I get TC kicking-in.
 
sofie 2 said:
Thanks James, I was careful to get the sensors tight.
I just don't understand how I can be doing 30mph with my foot off the accelerator that it stops the fault at known road problems. If I leave my foot on the gas I get TC kicking-in.
Click to expand...
If I understand the system correctly, TC is only active when under power. Once power is off the system switches to ABS.
 
Hi Si, Thanks for your input. I'll have to get further advice on that.
[lucky tr2 owners don't have silly problems like mine]
 
Hi. The TC can work only when the ECU gets a driver demand input never at idle and that's normal cos there's no "Traction controll" without any traction. If you are 100% that the front left wheel is involved and you swapped only the hubs but not the sensors too then swap the sensors and see what happens.
 
Hi Sierra, Both the original sensors were within the specified resistance range,but I swapped them for the new ones that came with the hubs. the new ones are within range too.
I'm positive that it's the O/S/F hub because I've had smoke coming off it !
Thanks for your input.
 
Mine does that sometimes hitting pot holes etc, don’t worry as long as no warning lights come on and it passes self test on start up.
 
On hitting pot holes is normal, every time you turn right is definitely not normal. If you had not matched the hubs I would have suggested that you might have hubs with different numbers of teeth on the reluctor rings.
 
sofie 2 said:
Hi Lads,
My front left TC always aggressively kicks-in when turning right & also when I hit a pot hole on a straight road.
This all started after I replaced all the ball joints at the front end. I tried to identify the fault by checking: resistance of the sensors, tracking, substituting the ABS ECU & also replacing with a matched pair of new hubs [60 segment] . All to no avail.
I make the same journey on regular basis & know where the TC will kick-in. The other day whilst making the same journey at 30 mph, I took my foot off the accelerator as I approached a known pot hole and the TC didn't kick-in. I continued on the journey and repeated the technique a few times with the same result.It also works when turning right.
I thought that I was dealing with an electrical problem, but it appears to be a mechanical problem.
Any advice would be welcome.
Click to expand...
When you replaced the hubs, didn't they come with sensors attached? Mine did. Dunno if that is significant.
But if you are getting a severe reaction from one wheel it implies the signal from that wheel may be off in some way.
I don't know if others have said this but have you tried swapping over the two front sensor wires at the ECU? If the right hand wheel suddenly starts playing up after you have done that then you know that the signal coming from that sensor is not right.
But it is well known that changing a sensor is often not a good thing to do which is why LR advocate always changing a hub for a new one with a new sensor attached.
Just saying!
 
sofie 2 said:
Hi Sierra, Both the original sensors were within the specified resistance range,but I swapped them for the new ones that came with the hubs. the new ones are within range too.
I'm positive that it's the O/S/F hub because I've had smoke coming off it !
Thanks for your input.
Click to expand...
Just read this which tends to knock a bit of a hole in my argument, unless the new hub's ring or sensor is fubar.
The thing is, did your Disco do this before you changed the hubs?
If it didn't then you deffo have a new problem.
It is tempting to suggest replacing the sensor with the old one but that could open up a whole nest of adders.
 
I don't know the brand of ball joints. I bought them off two different suppliers on eBay. They have been MOT tested. There was no comment, so I presume they are OK.
I don't know anything about camber settings. Do you think that it's possible that I could have altered them due to fitting new parts?
 
Hi Stan, If you read my 1st post again, you will see that I have had the tracking checked.
Tracking & camber are two different things.
 
sofie 2 said:
Hi Stan, If you read my 1st post again, you will see that I have had the tracking checked.
Tracking & camber are two different things.
Click to expand...
Yep reread it and so you did,
And yes, tracking, camber and caster are all different things, and any will affect the handling if out!:(
On most cars, tracking is the only one you can change, but in the kit car world some people build their cars with rose joints all over the place.
Gluttons for punishment!:D:D:D
 
The TC has not much to do with mechanical things, it's about wheel speed inputs and the difference limit is 0.4V between wheels, in a nutshell when the 0.4V difference is exceeded between two or more inputs for one reason or another the TC kicks in on the wheel with higher input to equalise the wheel speeds. The system is quite sensitive and it's sensitivity is increased by any missballance and difference from the recommended setup as it was calibrated from factory which means wabco sensors all around, standard dimension tyres at the recommended pressures from the WSM. Even a remap can affect TC operation cos there is a certain VSS expected for a given rpm which can be different due to the remap, the algorythm is very complex and many elements are monitored, here's a ''flavour''

ABS action graph.jpg
 
There are 2 collets that the lower balljoints fit into that supposedly are used to correct caster, but in reality they are a bugger to move so I doubt you've altered it.
 
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