The journey begins.

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Danny Fireblade

Member
Posts
47
Location
Hampshire
I collected my 1998 300tdi 110 on Sunday evening, and been busy at work ever since. On the drive back I noticed a few things that need sorting, and already knew about a few other things from the test drive. I thought I would start a thread, then as and when Prudy (not my choice of name, but she has it on her ass so may as well stay like that) shows me she cares by wanting my attention, I can just add to the thread. I enjoy reading other people's so thought I may as well start one myself.

I had a few hours this afternoon so thought I would make a start. To begin with I only had water coming from the drivers side of the washer jets, the other side was just a dribble. I cleaned it out with a needle, however this has not cured it. Looks like more investigation needed on that one.

The second thing I looked at was the seeping oil from the power steering. This was fairly simple as I just tightened a couple of jubilee clips and cleaned the hoses of old oil. I will check tomorrow to see if that has cured it or if further investigation is required? I took it for a drive this evening to get the oil pumping around.

I also looked at the reversing light that wasn't working. Fuse and bulb looks fine, so looks like that will need further investigation too. I have an electrician friend who is willing to come over and give me a hand one day, so that will wait until then.

I dont have a rear wiper, but the motor sounds like it works, as does the washer jets, so that is on my list to replace the motor and arm, as the spigot looks rounded off.

I also have a tracker to fit too, again when my sparky friend comes over for that.

Now I have a few questions for the enlightened if that is ok?

My light bar above the windscreen causes static and interference with the radio when it is on?

I have Cooper Discoverer STT, 265/75/16 fitted. Any ideas what the tyre pressures should be?

I am thinking of getting LED bulbs for the dash. I removed it earlier, but I could only pull it about half an inch out because of the speedo cable. Is this normal and how would I be able to remove it further to change the bulbs?

I dont think its had its cam belt changed, maybe ever? Whats the going rate for this and what else is advisable to get done at the same time due to the level of work required?

I think thats it for now I think, no doubt I will be adding to the list of questions and the list of things she needs doing to her, but until then, this is enough to begin with:rolleyes:
 
Danny Fireblade said:
I collected my 1998 300tdi 110 on Sunday evening, and been busy at work ever since. On the drive back I noticed a few things that need sorting, and already knew about a few other things from the test drive. I thought I would start a thread, then as and when Prudy (not my choice of name, but she has it on her ass so may as well stay like that) shows me she cares by wanting my attention, I can just add to the thread. I enjoy reading other people's so thought I may as well start one myself.

I had a few hours this afternoon so thought I would make a start. To begin with I only had water coming from the drivers side of the washer jets, the other side was just a dribble. I cleaned it out with a needle, however this has not cured it. Looks like more investigation needed on that one.
At that age the washer bottle can develop built up film from the screen wash additive. This film can break off and float about, clogging places. Take the bottle off and give it a clean out, gives you a better chance of pumping clean water through the nozzles.

The second thing I looked at was the seeping oil from the power steering. This was fairly simple as I just tightened a couple of jubilee clips and cleaned the hoses of old oil. I will check tomorrow to see if that has cured it or if further investigation is required? I took it for a drive this evening to get the oil pumping around.
Fingers crossed with that as they are expensive to replace.

I also looked at the reversing light that wasn't working. Fuse and bulb looks fine, so looks like that will need further investigation too. I have an electrician friend who is willing to come over and give me a hand one day, so that will wait until then.
It's worth checking the earth cable inside isn't corroded through. Do you have a multimeter to see if it's getting 12v? The connections are behind the little quarter panel on the right, when you open the back door.

I dont have a rear wiper, but the motor sounds like it works, as does the washer jets, so that is on my list to replace the motor and arm, as the spigot looks rounded off.
IIRC the motors are expensive. Try drilling a hole through the side of the wiper arm, tap it and put a machine screw through to grip the spigot.

I also have a tracker to fit too, again when my sparky friend comes over for that.
They are very easy to fit. Just got to hide it!

Now I have a few questions for the enlightened if that is ok?

My light bar above the windscreen causes static and interference with the radio when it is on?
Get ya sparky friend to check suppressor on the radio.

I have Cooper Discoverer STT, 265/75/16 fitted. Any ideas what the tyre pressures should be?
don't know

I am thinking of getting LED bulbs for the dash. I removed it earlier, but I could only pull it about half an inch out because of the speedo cable. Is this normal and how would I be able to remove it further to change the bulbs?
My instrument binnacle comes forward further than that. I've got a 97 300Tdi 90

I dont think its had its cam belt changed, maybe ever? Whats the going rate for this and what else is advisable to get done at the same time due to the level of work required?
At that age I'd be amazed if it hasn't had a few belt changes, for age if not mileage. Back in the day the belt had a tendency to wander about, rub on the housing and wear through. Yours must have had a belt change and so pulley upgrade by now. Not sure of current going rate. Ball park £200+ parts

I think thats it for now I think, no doubt I will be adding to the list of questions and the list of things she needs doing to her, but until then, this is enough to begin with:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
 
When I had an issue with leaking PS fluid I needed to replace the flexible hose as it had expanded slightly and even tightening the clamps tight wouldn't cure it. I would get the belt done first, the rest is not particularly urgent (until MOT time), however a broken belt will cause you a lot of issues / time / expense if it goes. Also go around and check and top up all oil levels so you have a start point.
 
Danny Fireblade said:
The second thing I looked at was the seeping oil from the power steering. This was fairly simple as I just tightened a couple of jubilee clips and cleaned the hoses of old oil. I will check tomorrow to see if that has cured it or if further investigation is required? I took it for a drive this evening to get the oil pumping around.
Click to expand...

From the sound of your description it is the pipes not the box that is leaking, this is good news as they are very easy to replace if tightening the clamps does not work. If you do end up replacing them it is just a case of undoing the nut one each end and fitting a new one, then top up the reservoir and turn the steering full lock to full lock to bleed the system.

Danny Fireblade said:
I had a few hours this afternoon so thought I would make a start. To begin with I only had water coming from the drivers side of the washer jets, the other side was just a dribble. I cleaned it out with a needle, however this has not cured it. Looks like more investigation needed on that one.
Click to expand...

As the washer jet is fairly cheap it might be worth replacing this to fix the blockage as they can be picked up for a couple of pounds. very easy to do as you should be bale to do it through the ashtray hole without removing the whole dash top. Just remove the pipe (pressfir) and loosen the securing nut.

Danny Fireblade said:
I also looked at the reversing light that wasn't working. Fuse and bulb looks fine, so looks like that will need further investigation too. I have an electrician friend who is willing to come over and give me a hand one day, so that will wait until then.
Click to expand...

I would agree with al203, get yourself a multi meter and check the voltage, chances are it will be an earth fault, they usually are. may just need a good cleaning may need a new cable running to a good earth point.

Danny Fireblade said:
I dont have a rear wiper, but the motor sounds like it works, as does the washer jets, so that is on my list to replace the motor and arm, as the spigot looks rounded off.
Click to expand...

If the motor is working I would try and not replace it as it is an expensive item unless you can find a good second hand one. al203' suggestion is a good one, but you could try also and make/fit a packer/spacer to salvage the the spigot before
 
Danny Fireblade said:
I dont think its had its cam belt changed, maybe ever? Whats the going rate for this and what else is advisable to get done at the same time due to the level of work required?
Click to expand...

Kwakerman said:
I would get the belt done first, the rest is not particularly urgent (until MOT time), however a broken belt will cause you a lot of issues / time / expense if it goes. Also go around and check and top up all oil levels so you have a start point.
Click to expand...


This is the most important thing to do with a matter of urgency. A broken belt will write off the engine requiring a very expensive rebuild. I am not hugely familiar with the 300tdi as I have a 200tdi, but they are basically the same. When I needed it doing I was quoted £500 plus vat for the work. In the end I bought the special tools needed (timing kit, crank damper puller, crack locking tool) and the parts and did it myself. Because of the tools needed it ended up costing me the same amount but it means when it needs another one in about 12 months It will only cost me the parts.

I would make sure the tensioner is changed at the same time as not every garage will do this as a matter of course unless requested. Other than that in terms of what to do at the same time it may be worth fitting new fan belts as they are cheap and removed anyway but they are easy enough to do any time.

I would also give it a good service, and check, preferably change, all oils (engine, gearbox, transferbox, both diffs), grease the prop shafts (uj’s and sliders) and the TRE (track rod ends). And check the condition of brakes, wheels bearings, swivel bearings and all suspension bushes including the a-frame ball joint. These are all easy to do none may be a problem but as it is a new vehicle a couple of hours to give it a thougrough going over is time well spent.
 
Danny Fireblade said:
I have Cooper Discoverer STT, 265/75/16 fitted. Any ideas what the tyre pressures should be?
Click to expand...

I run my BFG AT's of the same size at 32psi as standard, and then vary it depending on the load and off road conditions. This fits with the range coopers give for running (link)

Danny Fireblade said:
I am thinking of getting LED bulbs for the dash. I removed it earlier, but I could only pull it about half an inch out because of the speedo cable. Is this normal and how would I be able to remove it further to change the bulbs?
Click to expand...

This is fairly common, especially if the rubber grommet in the bulkhead are in good condition and nice and tight. If you remove the dash panel as far as you can and still cannot get a hand behind it to disconnect the speedo cable go to the engine bay side and push the speedo cable further through the bulkhead until you have enough room to disconnect it.
 
Thanks everyone, sorry for the late replies, I work shifts at various times, finished at 0700 this morning and working again tonight too. They kinda mess up my time for anything so it means I fit things in as and when.

I agree it does sound more like the pipe that are leaking, and if the tightening has not cured it I will start with replacing them.

I have a mate with a 90 and he knows of a good specialist, and have also found another bloke through a friend, so may ask them for prices for the cam belt change and associated work that makes sense. I am near Andover so sort of mid/north Hampshire area, so hopefully there is someone reputable/trustworthy/reasonable fairly close. I don't mind travelling a little for the right person and will be checking all the levels and buying a grease gun (any recommendations for make/model and type of grease to fill it)?

Think I will try the swop for the washer jet as they are only a couple of quid, and also find the speedo cable to feed through too. I will also play with the wiring and dig out my multi meter and see what that is like too. I will get a wiper arm and see what method is best, also check and adjust my TP's and start getting to know Prudy a bit more. I have a Haynes manual for the 90,110 & defender, is there another manual that is handy too?

Are the oils used by the army still ok to use? I still have a few contacts dotted about here and there which may turn out to be handy, lol. I usually enjoy getting my hands dirty and building/fabricating things. I built a 4.5m x 2.25m brick shed in the garden, BBQ out of a beer barrel and various other things, and I really enjoyed the few little bits I did the other day, so this may be a perfect vehicle to satisfy that side of me. Looks like I will be expanding on my tool collection too:). Luckily I have a Halfords trade card which saves me a little on most things (let me know if anyone is making big purchases and wants to meet up and save a few quid).

There is an amazing amount of knowledge on here, and its great being able to tap into that and learn at the same time. I think this journey will be long, enjoyable, frustrating, even more enjoyable, then a little costly:rolleyes:
 
Success, I removed the washer jet, washed it through under the tap, then used a can of pressurised air and tested it, both nozzles now work, yay:):D

I also checked the splines of the rear wiper and they don't look too bad so maybe I will get away with just being able to fit an arm and wiper. Are there any certain types of arms and wipers to get?

One job down, just a couple left:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Welcome to the Wonderful World of Defenders! As you say, lots of knowledge on here 'cos there's lots that you'll need to know if you want to DIY -and that's the fun of it, just a big box of mobile Meccano.
I find this site very useful. It'll help you identify the part you want, what it's called in Landyspeak and give you a comparison of prices. If nothing else, if you have to go to a Main Dealer for parts (Nooooo:eek:) you can quote a part number at the bloke in the stores and stand a better chance of getting the right bit for the model you have. You'll quickly work out that aftermarket parts cost small change, relatively, than bits from the dealer although quality can vary enormously. There's a "popular" brand that has some notoriety in that respect.

I have STTs your size and have run them at the manual pressure most of the time over the last 6 years and still got loads of tread; 48 front and 28 rear on roads, IIRC. Talking of "manual", the Haynes Defender restoration manual has a lot of useful stuff in it.
Completely agree with all above re the cambelt change. Would be my first priority if you don't know the service history. You can buy a kit with all the bits quite cheaply and the price you've been quoted suggests the bloke doesn't want the job.
 
Marmaduke said:
Wow 500 quid for a timing belt change, drive it to my house and I'll do it for 495 and wash it afterwards :eek:
With a 300tdi it's not the end of world if they do snap, you usually end up with a couple of bent pushrod and maybe a broken rocker arm (ask me how I know :oops:)
Click to expand...

That is why I bought the tools to do it myself. Having looked at the how to guide there was no chance I was paying that!
 
Youtube is a font of knowledge, before doing any job you are not familiar with look on youtube, there will be a video guide on there about it.
 
Its been a busy few days for me with work and getting out to do a bit of stalking. The stalking was on Sunday during the worst of the weather, and I am pleased to say Prudy didn't miss a beat.

Ive been given an A bar which is a little rusty, so thats another job to get that stripped down to bare metal, primed and painted. Does anyone know what the best paint would be? I was thinking of hammerite smooth?

Ive got her booked in for a new cambelt and thorough service, just as a peace of mind starting point really. Thanks for the recommendation Turktowner.

Have to say i am enjoying the experience of owning a Fender more than I thought I would. Its weird though that the list of jobs never seem to get smaller, even if you spend lots of time getting little things sorted, there are always new things to keep you on your toes.
 
Danny Fireblade said:
Ive been given an A bar which is a little rusty, so thats another job to get that stripped down to bare metal, primed and painted. Does anyone know what the best paint would be? I was thinking of hammerite smooth?.
Click to expand...

I like machinery enamel. You can use hamerite and that is what I started with but I fount you had to repaint it every 12months to keep it looking resonable and prevent rust. I now use red oxide primer followed by two coats of black gloss machinery enamel. It cheap enough and as long as given enough time to cure before useage sets very hard. It is what used to be used on the lovely old cast lathes and workshop machinery so it had to be hard wearing.
 
dag019 said:
I like machinery enamel. You can use hamerite and that is what I started with but I fount you had to repaint it every 12months to keep it looking resonable and prevent rust. I now use red oxide primer followed by two coats of black gloss machinery enamel. It cheap enough and as long as given enough time to cure before useage sets very hard. It is what used to be used on the lovely old cast lathes and workshop machinery so it had to be hard wearing.
Click to expand...

I don't suppose you have a link to the ones that you use do you? Cheers
 
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