holidaychicken
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Now i know I only usually post a load of BS and random crap on other people's threads but I am in need of some moral and technical support for an L322 2006 TD6 M57 3.0D I have been messing around with for a few months that belongs to a mate.
I have a fault code of P0046 - VARIABLE NOZZLE TURBO NEGATIVE DEVIATION (INTERMITTENT) that is triggered when i accelerate hard up a fairly steep hill and then it loses most of its power like it's in limp mode and the power slowly returns to normal. I can clear the fault and around town and on the motorway it pulls fine but it's this particular hill that runs off a roundabout when i am accelerating from slow speed up the hill that triggers it.
I have read many BMW and Landrover forums and even VW TDI forums in regard to the variable vane turbo, VNT, VGT etc and when I looked at the turbo actuator it was indeed really sticky causing what i have researched to be turbo overboost condition. When I disconnect the turbo actuator diaphragm I lose a lot of the low down power but it does not overboost as the actuator is in the low boost position when no vacuum is applied which is where I believe it should be when the engine revs / demand are high
Convinced the variable vanes were the problem and after running turbo cleaner through it and manually moving the actuator arm which didn't resolve it I decided to remove the turbo and strip it down. Even longer story short, I did this, got the turbo vanes moving very easily and the barsteward still goes into gimp mode
i have already replaced the turbo actuator solenoid control valve, PCV filter and cleaned the MAP sensor so i am a bit stuck as to where to go next.
I am going to fit a new MAP sensor to rule this out, I will clean the MAF and I think I should be checking the pipework post inter-cooler and EGR if i knew where it is and some flaps as well apparently.
I am also considering removing the turbo again and checking the adjustment of the actuator arm length in case it isn't releasing far enough but i have run it with a vacuum gauge in series with the actuator so I can monitor the vacuum applied from the solenoid and the vacuum drops to zero at high demand which means the vanes should be in the relaxed position as they are when i remove the vacuum entirely but maybe not early enough..
I have also found some wiring from the main ECU box that runs along the side of the engine that looks to have dropped down by the exhaust manifold at some point and the outer sleeve has melted so this is also on my check list.
Now there is another twist in that after replacing the turbo I wanted to check for oil leaks and noticed it has a rather heavy leak of what i believe to be diesel from the other side of the engine above the alternator.


I am very retarded when it comes to diesel engines, amongst other things of course, so if anyone can suggest anything i can try and also a possible source of the diesel leak it would be much appreciated as this is starting to drive me nuts.
I took a week off to play with my 4.4 and weld the exhaust and generally take it apart and put it back together again and all I have done is feck about with the TD6 and somehow put a new fuel filter on a TD5 Defender, probably because it looked like I didn't have enough going on.
Anyway writing this out I shall treat as therapy even if nobody has any ideas.....
Thanks for reading this if you did, if you didn't i don't blame you
Andy
I have a fault code of P0046 - VARIABLE NOZZLE TURBO NEGATIVE DEVIATION (INTERMITTENT) that is triggered when i accelerate hard up a fairly steep hill and then it loses most of its power like it's in limp mode and the power slowly returns to normal. I can clear the fault and around town and on the motorway it pulls fine but it's this particular hill that runs off a roundabout when i am accelerating from slow speed up the hill that triggers it.
I have read many BMW and Landrover forums and even VW TDI forums in regard to the variable vane turbo, VNT, VGT etc and when I looked at the turbo actuator it was indeed really sticky causing what i have researched to be turbo overboost condition. When I disconnect the turbo actuator diaphragm I lose a lot of the low down power but it does not overboost as the actuator is in the low boost position when no vacuum is applied which is where I believe it should be when the engine revs / demand are high
Convinced the variable vanes were the problem and after running turbo cleaner through it and manually moving the actuator arm which didn't resolve it I decided to remove the turbo and strip it down. Even longer story short, I did this, got the turbo vanes moving very easily and the barsteward still goes into gimp mode
i have already replaced the turbo actuator solenoid control valve, PCV filter and cleaned the MAP sensor so i am a bit stuck as to where to go next.
I am going to fit a new MAP sensor to rule this out, I will clean the MAF and I think I should be checking the pipework post inter-cooler and EGR if i knew where it is and some flaps as well apparently.
I am also considering removing the turbo again and checking the adjustment of the actuator arm length in case it isn't releasing far enough but i have run it with a vacuum gauge in series with the actuator so I can monitor the vacuum applied from the solenoid and the vacuum drops to zero at high demand which means the vanes should be in the relaxed position as they are when i remove the vacuum entirely but maybe not early enough..
I have also found some wiring from the main ECU box that runs along the side of the engine that looks to have dropped down by the exhaust manifold at some point and the outer sleeve has melted so this is also on my check list.
Now there is another twist in that after replacing the turbo I wanted to check for oil leaks and noticed it has a rather heavy leak of what i believe to be diesel from the other side of the engine above the alternator.


I am very retarded when it comes to diesel engines, amongst other things of course, so if anyone can suggest anything i can try and also a possible source of the diesel leak it would be much appreciated as this is starting to drive me nuts.
I took a week off to play with my 4.4 and weld the exhaust and generally take it apart and put it back together again and all I have done is feck about with the TD6 and somehow put a new fuel filter on a TD5 Defender, probably because it looked like I didn't have enough going on.
Anyway writing this out I shall treat as therapy even if nobody has any ideas.....
Thanks for reading this if you did, if you didn't i don't blame you
Andy
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