TD5 engine oil

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MJI

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Worcester
Since I do not know when it was last changed I want to run a short change, say 2 weeks to 1 month.

I have 7 litres of 10-40 mineral or 15-40 semi (not sure which as labelling was changed),

Would either of those damage anything before filling with 10-30 semi?

Thanks

Martin
 
Since I do not know when it was last changed I want to run a short change, say 2 weeks to 1 month.

I have 7 litres of 10-40 mineral or 15-40 semi (not sure which as labelling was changed),

Would either of those damage anything before filling with 10-30 semi?

Thanks

Martin

Not sure about damage, but you can tell the mineral oil by the smell of it. I run mine on 10w/40 semi. LR spec is 5w/30 semi.
 
anything starting with 10 or greater is too thick for UK... and if you use an oil just hoping it will not cause damage your engine will not last too much without overhaul

depends what you want for your engine ...if you want what's the best for it use 5W40/30 semi of full synth oil on which is stated "for unit injector engines"...if you want just to not let it run dry use what ever you want cos the engine will run even with sunflower oil...the question is how nice and for how long

anyway mineral oil is not recommended as it has a certain electric conductivity which is not good for EUIs...dont forget that the Td5 has a loom with electrical connections to the solenoids which works in that oil...the EUIs are working with 80V pulsatory voltage not with 12V DC
 
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I am with S/F on this and always use 5w30 or 5w40 semi or full synth.I want the oil to flow quickly especially to turbo bearings and do not want it conductive at all.
 
anything starting with 10 or greater is too thick for UK... and if you use an oil just hoping it will not cause damage your engine will not last too much without overhaul

depends what you want for your engine ...if you want what's the best for it use 5W40/30 semi of full synth oil on which is stated "for unit injector engines"...if you want just to not let it run dry use what ever you want cos the engine will run even with sunflower oil...the question is how nice and for how long

anyway mineral oil is not recommended as it has a certain electric conductivity which is not good for EUIs...dont forget that the Td5 has a loom with electrical connections to the solenoids which works in that oil...the EUIs are working with 80V pulsatory voltage not with 12V DC

disagree with your thinking that 10/40 isnt suitable for uk winter use, its 10 spec is rated to -20'c and its very rare its below that
 
ok, i stand corrected.....as long as "very rare" means never;)

i reformulate... IMO 10W is thick for Europe in general... it's not about the extremes of the 'rating' , a 10W oil will flow hard at the beginning starting from below 0, i'll accept it(but never use it though) only if the D2 is fitted with a FBH(but that's just me)
 
Thanks all, the oil in the car does not look good, but I have money supply issues until June. (Big bills for other things), level is OK.

I have a can and half of 10-40

So possibly better to leave in old oil for a few more weeks if it is mineral, but if semi sythetic should be OK for a few weeks. Was also thinking of using it to flush it through.
 
I wouldn't want to use mineral on an engine which has been designed with synthetic oil in mind, besides which doesn't mineral oil clog up when it tries to mix with synthetic & vice versa?? Or was that an urban myth with a couple of isolated cases? Hence semi synth is a good option..
 
I am planning on bulk buying Fuchs 5-30 from Opie but I need more money in paypal, but I am suffering from idiot customer syndrome a the moment so the account is low.
 
I wouldn't want to use mineral on an engine which has been designed with synthetic oil in mind, besides which doesn't mineral oil clog up when it tries to mix with synthetic & vice versa?? Or was that an urban myth with a couple of isolated cases? Hence semi synth is a good option..


I am trying to work out what my current stock is it puts down the ratings but no mention of type, yet I had ordered semi sythetic at the time.

Saw all the FSH, but not realised it was sold prior to the major service where everything is changed, only when I sat down and checked everythign carefully.

Distress purchases are no fun as my old cars MOT was nearly out and no way would it pass with the side smashed in.
 
i'm sure it's better than what it's in it now


£20 for 5 litres sounds OK for Fuchs.

I did have a Vauxhall tradeclub card.

I tend to buy decent branded but not expensive oil, as a lot of the expensive ones you pay for bull**** or marketing, I also avoid cheap oil.
 
I believe you can get counseling for that sort of thing, the fact you have admitted your affiliation with the 'V' word is a good start. Now stand in the corner and hold your head in shame ;)


No it isn't - provided you bought a V car from Russleheim or more recently from Austrailia. There are a few of us now, used to run big Vauxhalls, they stop making them we buy something else, and the favourite appears to be TD5 Discos
 
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