Td5 Engine mount holes

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kevseabass110

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There are 2 holes on the underside of the engine mounts . I can see rubber right down on the holes I’m guessing this means they’re shot?? The rubber does push in about 10mm
 
Thanks SF looks like both sides are shot. I’m wondering if it will help to solve the resonance I get at 2200-2800 rpm, there’s loads written about it but no definitive answer. I’ve spent many a moment thinking "what could it be ?" If mounts don’t help I might start planning changing the harmonic balancer. What’s your thoughts sierrafery?
 
Thanks for the advice so genuine it will be. I’ll report back once done to hopefully conclude the thread with a good result
 
I changed ours for Genuine replacements a couple of years ago after noticing various vibrations at certain engine speed & lack of clearance under the mountings. Result was a nice improvement in refinement (all relative on a Land Rover - lol)
 
Are either or both the existing mounts covered in oil from leaks? Constant exposure to oil will *really* shorten their life. Some rubbers are oil resistant, but seemingly these are not - they'll soften and collapse pretty quickly.

So definitely worth fixing any oil leaks if you don't want to be doing the job again in a few months.
 
the only real oil leak I had was front cam seal, which with help from the fan blows oil everywhere so it might well have contributed .
 
Just picked up new genuine engine mounts from Land Rover. What a massive difference visually out of the box , the distance from hole to rubber is a good 25mm I know this is without the weight of the engine but still I can see that mine were shot. The whole engine gearbox will have dropped a fair way with the old mounts .
 
Please let us know what will be the gap with mounts in situ cos that minimum 10mm estimation of mine was something which came from some hidden place of my brain's RAM but i wasnt sure how it popped in my mind. :confused:o_O
 
sierrafery said:
Please let us know what will be the gap with mounts in situ cos that minimum 10mm estimation of mine was something which came from some hidden place of my brain's RAM but i wasnt sure how it popped in my mind. :confused:o_O
Click to expand...
Will do, hopefully I’ll get it done tonight.
 
I can confirm that the brand new genuine mounts are about 18mm from casing hole to rubber with the weight of the car on (not yet road tested) . The job is doable on your own but only just , you ideally need an extra hand for undoing the 4x mount to chassis nut and bolt (2 on each ) socket either side and also to tilt the engine, jacking engine up to the firewall is barely enough to get old out and new in, someone will need to push the engine which ever way to give those extra few mm. Do the job on level ground because trying to bias the left or right by jacking left or right of engine won’t work. What I don’t understand is why the chassis to mount bolts go up from underneath with the nut on top. For one it’s harder to refit the bolt from below and not that this is likely but if the nuts did come off then if the bolt came from the top at least they’d stay in place and so would the engine .
 
kevseabass110 said:
I can confirm that the brand new genuine mounts are about 18mm from casing hole to rubber with the weight of the car on
Click to expand...
Much obliged for that, it's a really important information
icon_clap.gif
... it seems that my "at least 10mm" was quite close and IMO it might be influeced by some extra weight too, for example on my vehicle i have a steel bumper and a 8 ton winch so let's say + 'at least' 50kg above a stadard setup:)

i'll upgrade my RAM to 15mm gap as average :cool:
 
Just did a test drive and there’s significant improvement to the harmonics of the engine. The drone between 2200rpm and 2800 has improved massively, it’s still vaguely there but I’m certain the natural resonance of the engine is within this range. All I removed to do the job was the engine cover, fan cover, battery cover and the fuel cooler. It’s tight this way but can be done. The bottom bolts of the cooler are very fiddly and excruciatingly long. best access to these I found was by actually climbing on the block , wrist bend better that way for getting the bolts started I then jumped down and duct taped very tightly a long handled screw driver to a 10mm ratchet spanner to get the front one (worked a treat) the rear I did from on the block again with the 10mm ratchet spanner alone. As with anything second time round will be easy
upload_2018-9-6_18-6-46.jpeg

upload_2018-9-6_18-7-8.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Hi there
I had that drone resonance thing on my old discovery td5
After having my exhaust manifold skimmed with new gaskets etc it was gone completely
Good work with the mounts!
 
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